Godsey

Hello. I was wanting to get a combat/stunt plane/wing for my 1955 Two speed Fox Stunt Engine. I have been looking and cannot find many websites that sell them. I would prefer a kit. What do you guys got?

cjet

Try this site as a starter and look at the kits.

http://brodak.com/control-line-kits.html

Also here is another:

http://clflyer.tripod.com/

Tower Hobbies has a few UC ARF's also.

I still have a flyable Sterling Ringmaster with a Fox .35 stunt that I built in about 1959 or 60. Last flew it in 2007. They will last a long time if you can rebuild them!

Good hunting ....

Tom Nied

Ringmaster!

Godsey

Can someone tell me what the difference between Slow Combat and Fast Combat is besides the obvious, speed? Will a slow combat plane still loop real tight? How does it work?

cutaway

Before slow combat was dropped as an official event a while back, there wasn't much difference in performance between a slow plane and a fast one. Both were very fast and high performance. The only significant difference was slow didn't use pressurized fuel systems.

What used to be slow has been locally morphing into "speed limit" combat events. Run any engine/plane/fuel system you want just don't exceed 70 or 80mph in timed laps at the start of the match. Planes with cheap/common .25's or a Fox stunt .35 can meet the 70mph spec and be competitive.

Slow had become just as esoteric and expensive as fast, perhaps even moreso and attendance had fallen off. The speed limit notion is an attempt to make combat more accessible to people who don't want to spend cubic dollars getting a competitive airplane/engine.

dennis

My Feedback: (90)

You might want to try Walter Umlands site. Here is the klink

http://www.builtrightflyright.com/


His kits are lazer cut out of the best balsa available. Plans have been updated and corrected and yes you can actually build another one from them. No accessories are included and the kits are not $3.95 but you get some truly great kits to build

Examples are the Combat streak,Sneeker,Half fast,T Square, Manx Cat , Combat cats,Warlord

Dennis

Godsey

Ok. I will probably be getting the Apocalypse from blackhawk models. I will be getting the line from sig. Is the reel that the lines come on also a handle? When the lines are all hooked up, will the reel still be connected?

paw080

Hi, Build a FliteStreak; nothing with a Fox 35 Stunt will fly better. DO Not Get
the ARF. The kit is a better model in all ways. This model will fly a great stunt pattern
and it will fly as a proper Combat ship of those days; it just depends upon where
you place the CG.

Tony

mikeainia

My Feedback: (1)

No, the reel is just a cheap plastic reel that will eventually break for no reason .. . You will need to learn the proper way to roll and unroll the lines to keep from having them become hopelessly tangled up. You roll the line off the handle by:

Connect the loose ends of the lines to the plane
Stick your finger through the center of the reel
Walk the reel away from the plane allowing the lines to unroll as you go
Connect your handle to the ends of the lines which were in the center part of the reel
(Or - connect the handle to the loose ends of the lines and have a helper
walk the handle away from you - when the lines are fully extended
connect the free ends of the lines to the plane)

To re-roll the lines (and this is the REALLY important action):

You must NOT roll the lines up by winding the lines around the reel (as if you
were winding a string onto a pop can or something) This twists the lines around
each other one complete twist for each wind around the reel.


After flying, walk the lines to separate and untwist them (You should do this after
every flight, anyway)
Disconnect from one end (either plane or handle, doesn't really matter but
I like to disconnect the handle and have the weight of the plane holding the
other end)
Capture the two free ends in the slot at the center of the reel
By rotating the REEL, start reeling up the lines and walking toward the Plane
(or handle, if you started at the other end)
This is somewhat eased by putting a finger through center hole and the other
hand through the 'outer' finger hole and winding up like a fishing reel
When you reach the still connected ends, disconnect and wind up as much
slack as you can. You will need to figure some way to secure the free ends
(like a rubber band through the clips or something) so that the lines don't
start to unwind themselves as soon as they are released to do so.
Some of the guys in our club use those foam pop-can "coolies" to store the
reeled up lines in - I cut the tops of my old sweat socks off to make an elastic
tube and slip the reel into one of these tubes. Keeps the ends from coming
off the reel while they are in the bottom of my toolbox.

scott17

http://home.earthlink.net/~philcartier/