It looks very good, and yes, they are a hoot to fly!
My first one went a bit further than your Taurus - about a half lap. Further in distance, maybe, but not much longer in time... In that half lap it got about 3 laps ahead of me... I thnk they call it PIO (Pilot Induced Oscillation... it gets ahead of your correction efforts, making It worse.)
I bought a TopFlite kit as soon as it was released - 1954 or so. I made the mistake of balancing it where the plans showed - WAY too tail heavy for a newbie... Furthest back that might survive was AT the front edge of the spars. : - another 1/2" further forward was better.. As you got used to it, you could trim the CG a bit aft, but not a lot.
By the way, balsa was MUCH less expensive back then, and I think George Aldrich developed the Flite Streak for, and with, the Top Flite company. The leading edge and trailing edges were milled to shape at the factory from solid pieces. As I said, balsa cost a lot less then, and the waste no problem.
The rib notches were cut in at the factory. The leading and trailing edges were ALWAYS warped and twisted, about like Sterling Ringmaster, P-51 and Yak-9 pieces, but were better made of better wood and much lighter. The wood milled out of the back of the LE - that ' \_/ ' shape never seemed to touch the matching part of the ribs, either. Didn't seem to matter, and 60 years ago, who knew? Streaks flew great, anyway,,,
Put my first one back together and flew it happily another few years.
With balsa scarce and expensive today, the two or three piece built-up leading edge blank is a good substitute! Table saw might make it easier, but isn't necessary. You could block up the rib edge of a say 1/4 x 1 strip against the edge of a work board and sand the bevel with 60 grit kept vertical (A glass work space top won't get scarred up doing this. A metal strip can do as well. Such edges help keep the coarse sanding 'block' vertical.
For myself, the design flies so well I wouldn't try to replicate the original kits, but to improve them in sensible ways that don't 'betray' the original. I mean things like making the front end stronger. Run the motor mounts back to the leading edge. Improve the doublers: cut new ones from 1/16 or 1/32 ply and run them back another 2" along the fuse. Mount these under the stock 1/8 ply doublers. Dope or epoxy light fibreglas onto the wing to fuselage joint area. These a add just a little weight, but a LOT of strength.
Last edited by Lou Crane; 05-29-2015 at 09:15 PM.