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Building a Flite Streek

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Old 02-04-2014, 07:57 AM
  #1
Joe Fisher
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Default Building a Flite Streek

When I bought the plans for the Ringmasters I also bought Flite Streek plans. I work on it off and on. The plans.


Making the leading edge.






Making spars.







Assembled wing and major parts.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:37 PM
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I have never made a L.E. That way. That is neat. Is it made from 2 pieces?

Ken
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:51 AM
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Yes it is 2 pieces, this is how Brodak does their Flite Streak and Ringmaster kits. I glue mine to the ribs before I shape them, but as you can see it doesn't matter. Works really well.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:57 AM
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The leading edge is one peace the inside I did on the table saw the outside I carved using the steel template in the second picture.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwayne View Post
Yes it is 2 pieces, this is how Brodak does their Flite Streak and Ringmaster kits. I glue mine to the ribs before I shape them, but as you can see it doesn't matter. Works really well.
Ok I stand corrected it is one piece...lol Very nice work Joe.

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Old 02-05-2014, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwayne View Post
Ok I stand corrected it is one piece...lol Very nice work Joe.
I like it a lot. Looks strong, stiff, and light. But I do not have a table saw (apartment). I will have to think about ways to do something like that as a two piece.

At this time I am exclusively scratch building. Sometimes from plan, but most of the time from the strange things in my head

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:07 AM
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The plans show a two peace alternitive. I would need a table saw for that to.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Fisher View Post
The plans show a two peace alternitive. I would need a table saw for that to.
Joe, AFAIK the "alternative" is the way George Aldrich originally designed it. The manufacturers, first Top Flite, then Brodak altered the LE and TE for easier production.

George
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:52 PM
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Ah that makes sense and I can easily do that. I save the image to my computer for future reference.

I will incorporate that on a future build. See you can teach an old dog new tricks

Thanks Ken
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:16 PM
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I think the Brodak Flitestreak plans are exactly as George designed it. I have seen a number of George's copies of the plan over the years. I have George's proof sheet of the Brodak plan, and it looks the same to me. I have built the large and Junior Flightstreaks form the Brodak kits and highly recommend them.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Thomerson View Post
I think the Brodak Flitestreak plans are exactly as George designed it. I have seen a number of George's copies of the plan over the years. I have George's proof sheet of the Brodak plan, and it looks the same to me. I have built the large and Junior Flightstreaks form the Brodak kits and highly recommend them.
Agree, here's mine built from Brodak plans, power is a OS FX .25, goes like stink and is a blast to fly...lol If you've never flown one Joe they are alot of fun.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Fisher View Post
The plans show a two peace alternitive. I would need a table saw for that to.
My apologies, the "alternative" way is how GMA designed it and how Brodak implemented it (as Jim pointed out). I dug out my unbuilt Brodak kit and realized that the plans you have are not the Brodak ones.
You do not need a table saw to make this LE. One way is to glue the first sheet to the ribs, taper it with a knife + sandpaper or a razor plane, then add the other sheet (the way Dwayne did). The Brodak kit shows building it separate using some jigs. Either way will work. Few people would build the LE the way you did, but it looks great and should work well.

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:51 PM
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Actualy I am trying to do retro things what I am trying to do is repricate the kit I built as a teenager. This Ringmaster and Flite Streak have given to the idea that I can do things I used to think I had to buy the kit to get. When I was in the Airforce I built a Top Flight Torus. With the 10 channel citezans band reed systom it flew about 6 seconds and after I opened the throttle I wasnt flying it. Now with the proportional radios I never loose control. I have wanted to build another Torus but the wing leading edge seemed out of the question. Now I think I can do it so I know I can get the plans I might try to build one.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:52 PM
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Joe, if you mean Taurus the plans are on Outerzone.

George
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:24 PM
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I have more done. I didn't know about Outerzone I have found plans at several places.

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Old 02-09-2014, 01:20 PM
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Well I have about all I can do for now. My wife would have a fit if I tryed to dope in the house and It is to cold outside to heat the shop to doping temp.
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Fisher View Post
Well I have about all I can do for now. My wife would have a fit if I tryed to dope in the house and It is to cold outside to heat the shop to doping temp.
Yeah it sucks waiting until it warms up outside to paint a project
Looking good though.
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:56 PM
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Them is some good looking bones Joe

Ken
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:29 PM
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I finally got it finished. I bought a O.S..25 LA , venturi and needle valve for C/L. Flew it last week. It fly's great hope to make a video soon.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:09 PM
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Joe,

It looks very good, and yes, they are a hoot to fly!

My first one went a bit further than your Taurus - about a half lap. Further in distance, maybe, but not much longer in time... In that half lap it got about 3 laps ahead of me... I thnk they call it PIO (Pilot Induced Oscillation... it gets ahead of your correction efforts, making It worse.)

I bought a TopFlite kit as soon as it was released - 1954 or so. I made the mistake of balancing it where the plans showed - WAY too tail heavy for a newbie... Furthest back that might survive was AT the front edge of the spars. : - another 1/2" further forward was better.. As you got used to it, you could trim the CG a bit aft, but not a lot.

By the way, balsa was MUCH less expensive back then, and I think George Aldrich developed the Flite Streak for, and with, the Top Flite company. The leading edge and trailing edges were milled to shape at the factory from solid pieces. As I said, balsa cost a lot less then, and the waste no problem.

The rib notches were cut in at the factory. The leading and trailing edges were ALWAYS warped and twisted, about like Sterling Ringmaster, P-51 and Yak-9 pieces, but were better made of better wood and much lighter. The wood milled out of the back of the LE - that ' \_/ ' shape never seemed to touch the matching part of the ribs, either. Didn't seem to matter, and 60 years ago, who knew? Streaks flew great, anyway,,,

Put my first one back together and flew it happily another few years.

With balsa scarce and expensive today, the two or three piece built-up leading edge blank is a good substitute! Table saw might make it easier, but isn't necessary. You could block up the rib edge of a say 1/4 x 1 strip against the edge of a work board and sand the bevel with 60 grit kept vertical (A glass work space top won't get scarred up doing this. A metal strip can do as well. Such edges help keep the coarse sanding 'block' vertical.

For myself, the design flies so well I wouldn't try to replicate the original kits, but to improve them in sensible ways that don't 'betray' the original. I mean things like making the front end stronger. Run the motor mounts back to the leading edge. Improve the doublers: cut new ones from 1/16 or 1/32 ply and run them back another 2" along the fuse. Mount these under the stock 1/8 ply doublers. Dope or epoxy light fibreglas onto the wing to fuselage joint area. These a add just a little weight, but a LOT of strength.

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Old 05-30-2015, 12:41 PM
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Here is a picture of my Topflight Flightstreak. It has had a couple hard landings (notice the missing wood from part of the rudder). Stock Fox 35 on the nose.
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