grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

One of the guys in my RC club acquired a garage-hanging Nobler and a Fox 35 that was headed for the trash. With the demise of my C/L trainer last year, my thinking is that this plane can take it's place, if only for a few flights. Since it's decrepit enough to not survive the first figure-9 anyway, I have no desire to spend any money or heroics to do anything beyond making it safe.
One of the issues that probably kept it from flying was that the leadouts did not leave enough margin beyond the wingtip to terminate properly. Digging into the center of a Nobler to access the bellcrank is pretty much out of the question...Been there before. But I have cut into the bottom wing skin just shy of the fuselage to view the bellcrank and hopefully splice in new leadouts. Bellcrank attachments look okay, but not bushed.
I have threaded in new leads and made a splice attempt on one of them. Both ends were run through an uncrimped leader crimp and about an inch of lead is folded over and bound with copper wire out and back in prep for epoxy.
I've decided to stop here and ask for comments before I commit to these shenanigans. Is this a bad idea or what?

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

While it hard to see exactly what you did I can not see any reason that it would not work. Do assure that the bundle cannot hang up internally on any of those ribs especially when the lines are slacked then stretched. Do give the entire system a good pull test with a buddy.

By the way welcome back to the circle


John

Tom Nied

Yeah John's concern is exactly what I don't like there. That could be a crash waiting to happen. Since its not a pristine contest winner plane, why not consider opening it up so you can get to the bellcrank and re do the leadouts?

Tom Nied

If I were doing the fix. I would try to get a plan showing where that belcrank is located. Cut two holes, avoiding cutting the spar. Buy a Sullivan C-D controline leadout kit. And re do it. Yeah, it's going to be a bit "fiddly", but ultimately it would be much better done right.

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

I've had a Nobler apart that far and I'm not willing to do it again. Not for this plane. I can build a profile quicker than get to that bellcrank.

I've done CL a number of years now and often take a trainer to the RC field. When things get slow, I start twisting arms to get a newbie to try it.

I appreciate what you're saying, Tom, but I have nice planes I can fly. If a beginner can get around the circle with this old Nobler safely, I see it as paid for.

Tom Nied

Well you asked for comments, I gave you mine.

GREG DOE

You might try some heat shrink tubing over the splice. This wouldn't be done for strength, but rather to "smooth" the blob to keep it from binding on the ribs. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

You know what grotto2, finish your repair, assure it cannot snag and do a good pull test then go enjoy the airplane, its as simple as that. And by the way I applaud your efforts to help keep ukie alive

John

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

Update:
The splice was completed as described and covered with a 5" long piece of heatshrink to get around the ribs. The airplane passed a pull test and was maidened today. Slow, uninteresting with the muffled Fox 35. The airplane was hacked together using junkbox parts and shouldn't be intimidating to anyone.

GREG DOE

Great news.

straitnickel

Alright

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I might have opened up that hole in the rib for a little more clearance and then CA'd a matchstick scab on the top and bottom of the rib for strength, but good job!