New Car Goldberg Replica 42” Shoestring Stunter Project
03-05-2023, 07:09 PM
#1
New Car Goldberg Replica 42” Shoestring Stunter Project
I bounce around way too much, still need to cover the Veco Brave, but recently I have been tasked with the job of creating an exact copy of the the Carl Goldberg 42” Shoestring Stunter. I know there is already a newer Shoestring type kit available, but I like original. Much like i did on the Veco Brave, I tried to stick with the creators originality. I hope to wind this project up next week with pictures for the forum. Then I can hop back onto the Brave and get it ready for flight in the spring.
cheers Y’all
Hye Flyer (pronounced HI - Armenians would know this LOL)
cheers Y’all
Hye Flyer (pronounced HI - Armenians would know this LOL)
03-15-2023, 09:35 PM
#2
Cut the Number 1 rib last night… was almost a perfect match
The original is in the cutout of the duplicate. Just need to narrow the tab behind the spar on the duplicate and we’re there.
next to tackle the rest of the ribs…
The original is in the cutout of the duplicate. Just need to narrow the tab behind the spar on the duplicate and we’re there.
next to tackle the rest of the ribs…
03-21-2023, 06:45 AM
#3
Original CG Shoestring Stunter Kit Resurrection Project Update: I have finished drawing all the original parts of the kit in CAD. Looks like I’ll be using two 3/16” and one 1/8” laminated SIG Balsa (have on hand) to get the 1/2” thick fuselage nice and straight. Should be strong enough with the glue. The original fuselage weighed in at 3.8 oz… this is 2.2 w/o glue.. might even slip 1/8” ply in middle vs balsa but will look at that after its glued up. The important thing for me is keeping with originality as much as possible.
04-04-2023, 09:37 AM
#4
I have completed this project. Exact replica of the parts (or as close as one can get with the CAD and things actually measuring and fitting together). The only changes i have made to the original kit parts are 1. Used 3/32 balsa for ribs vs. 5/64, 2. Used 1/8” ply for wing reinforcement vs. 3/32”, 3. Used 1/16 sheeting for top and bottom of center wings, 4. Made sure the wing tip parts actually mate together (original parts had gaps in the joints). Other than that, everyone else matched up fairly accurately.
I know others have created a newer version of this great Stunter… I wanted to do something different, and that was create a replica of the original.
I will be making short kits after Easter. PM me if you are interested. I have also re-scaled up the plans so the printed 48” x 36” plan has a wingspan of actually 42”.
I also will offer laser cut cardboard templates for you real scratch builders.
I know others have created a newer version of this great Stunter… I wanted to do something different, and that was create a replica of the original.
I will be making short kits after Easter. PM me if you are interested. I have also re-scaled up the plans so the printed 48” x 36” plan has a wingspan of actually 42”.
I also will offer laser cut cardboard templates for you real scratch builders.
04-07-2023, 09:38 PM
#5
The Shoestring is the best non-flapped stunter that I have flown, I like it better than the Flite Streak. I would be interested in a short kit.
What engine are you going to use? I find that most of the old planes designed for the very light weight Fox 35 are a challenge to balance without gobs of tail weight when using modern engines, especially those with a muffler. I usually end up moving the wing a little bit forward if there is room and/or lengthening the tail. The Shoestring already has a shortish nose so a tail stretch might be a good idea.
Of course if you are using a Fox 35 you will be “golden” except you will then be subject to the old Fox “burp” when mounting on a profile ship. Sometimes a good .20 at about the same weight will fly the Shoestring well, but I haven’t tried it myself. I heard the old Veco/K&B .19 is a great performer as is an OS .25LA if you can find one but Fox 35s are easier to find.
What engine are you going to use? I find that most of the old planes designed for the very light weight Fox 35 are a challenge to balance without gobs of tail weight when using modern engines, especially those with a muffler. I usually end up moving the wing a little bit forward if there is room and/or lengthening the tail. The Shoestring already has a shortish nose so a tail stretch might be a good idea.
Of course if you are using a Fox 35 you will be “golden” except you will then be subject to the old Fox “burp” when mounting on a profile ship. Sometimes a good .20 at about the same weight will fly the Shoestring well, but I haven’t tried it myself. I heard the old Veco/K&B .19 is a great performer as is an OS .25LA if you can find one but Fox 35s are easier to find.
04-10-2023, 03:16 PM
#7
Templates being cut from 40pt chipboard
04-12-2023, 08:42 PM
#9
08-08-2023, 08:01 AM
#11
After kicking this around for some time now, I have decided that maybe I will offer the short kit of the unique parts less the fuselage… since some like to move the wing forward and/or extend the tail (as stated above and by others I have spoken to) and include the paper/cardboard template for the fuselage. That way the builder can use a solid 1/2” sheet balsa as well as make any adjustments to the template before cutting the balsa. The Fuselage is easy enough to cut vs all the ribs and other unique parts… keeps the cost down on the short kit and provide a degree of modification if desired. What Y’all think?
The following users liked this post:
Nitroflightro (09-05-2023)
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Nitroflightro (09-05-2023)
09-06-2023, 06:25 AM
#14
Nitroflight:
I used to own a laser and sold it because I just didn’t use it enough to justify the expense. Plus the laser required a dedicated space in my shop and a noisy ventilation system. I sold it for what I paid, $5000 bought used, and ended up purchasing a Cricut Maker vinyl cutter for $300 that does almost as well with no storage/space issues or noisy ventilation system.
The Cricut is much slower than a laser, won’t cut plywood at all, or balsa if it’s over 3/32 inch thick, but WILL cut balsa very well and without charring or a kerf. The kerf is the width of the laser beam which sometimes makes it difficult to get the parts to fit nice a tight tight. No kerf with the Cricut. The Cricut Maker also cuts vinyl so custom decals are a snap. The Cricut is very easy to use, quiet, light weight, portable and cuts without smoke or mess so you can easily set it up anywhere to cut balsa, even on the kitchen table or office.
If you can live with it’s limitations the Cricut is an excellent tool. I rarely use balsa over 3/32 inch and have precision saws for plywood so I use the Cricut for strictly balsa ribs, formers and fuselage sides. It serves me very well and when I’m done with it I put it back in the box and on the shelf.
If you intend to cut lots of stuff quickly, need to cut thicker materials or plywood the the Cricut is NOT for you, get the laser. But if you build smaller planes and can live with it’s limitations, the Cricut Maker is an excellent inexpensive substitute for a laser.
I used to own a laser and sold it because I just didn’t use it enough to justify the expense. Plus the laser required a dedicated space in my shop and a noisy ventilation system. I sold it for what I paid, $5000 bought used, and ended up purchasing a Cricut Maker vinyl cutter for $300 that does almost as well with no storage/space issues or noisy ventilation system.
The Cricut is much slower than a laser, won’t cut plywood at all, or balsa if it’s over 3/32 inch thick, but WILL cut balsa very well and without charring or a kerf. The kerf is the width of the laser beam which sometimes makes it difficult to get the parts to fit nice a tight tight. No kerf with the Cricut. The Cricut Maker also cuts vinyl so custom decals are a snap. The Cricut is very easy to use, quiet, light weight, portable and cuts without smoke or mess so you can easily set it up anywhere to cut balsa, even on the kitchen table or office.
If you can live with it’s limitations the Cricut is an excellent tool. I rarely use balsa over 3/32 inch and have precision saws for plywood so I use the Cricut for strictly balsa ribs, formers and fuselage sides. It serves me very well and when I’m done with it I put it back in the box and on the shelf.
If you intend to cut lots of stuff quickly, need to cut thicker materials or plywood the the Cricut is NOT for you, get the laser. But if you build smaller planes and can live with it’s limitations, the Cricut Maker is an excellent inexpensive substitute for a laser.
Last edited by 049flyer; 09-06-2023 at 06:27 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Nitroflightro (09-07-2023)
09-07-2023, 09:23 AM
#15
Junior Member
Nitroflight:
I used to own a laser and sold it because I just didn’t use it enough to justify the expense. Plus the laser required a dedicated space in my shop and a noisy ventilation system. I sold it for what I paid, $5000 bought used, and ended up purchasing a Cricut Maker vinyl cutter for $300 that does almost as well with no storage/space issues or noisy ventilation system.
The Cricut is much slower than a laser, won’t cut plywood at all, or balsa if it’s over 3/32 inch thick, but WILL cut balsa very well and without charring or a kerf. The kerf is the width of the laser beam which sometimes makes it difficult to get the parts to fit nice a tight tight. No kerf with the Cricut. The Cricut Maker also cuts vinyl so custom decals are a snap. The Cricut is very easy to use, quiet, light weight, portable and cuts without smoke or mess so you can easily set it up anywhere to cut balsa, even on the kitchen table or office.
If you can live with it’s limitations the Cricut is an excellent tool. I rarely use balsa over 3/32 inch and have precision saws for plywood so I use the Cricut for strictly balsa ribs, formers and fuselage sides. It serves me very well and when I’m done with it I put it back in the box and on the shelf.
If you intend to cut lots of stuff quickly, need to cut thicker materials or plywood the the Cricut is NOT for you, get the laser. But if you build smaller planes and can live with it’s limitations, the Cricut Maker is an excellent inexpensive substitute for a laser.
I used to own a laser and sold it because I just didn’t use it enough to justify the expense. Plus the laser required a dedicated space in my shop and a noisy ventilation system. I sold it for what I paid, $5000 bought used, and ended up purchasing a Cricut Maker vinyl cutter for $300 that does almost as well with no storage/space issues or noisy ventilation system.
The Cricut is much slower than a laser, won’t cut plywood at all, or balsa if it’s over 3/32 inch thick, but WILL cut balsa very well and without charring or a kerf. The kerf is the width of the laser beam which sometimes makes it difficult to get the parts to fit nice a tight tight. No kerf with the Cricut. The Cricut Maker also cuts vinyl so custom decals are a snap. The Cricut is very easy to use, quiet, light weight, portable and cuts without smoke or mess so you can easily set it up anywhere to cut balsa, even on the kitchen table or office.
If you can live with it’s limitations the Cricut is an excellent tool. I rarely use balsa over 3/32 inch and have precision saws for plywood so I use the Cricut for strictly balsa ribs, formers and fuselage sides. It serves me very well and when I’m done with it I put it back in the box and on the shelf.
If you intend to cut lots of stuff quickly, need to cut thicker materials or plywood the the Cricut is NOT for you, get the laser. But if you build smaller planes and can live with it’s limitations, the Cricut Maker is an excellent inexpensive substitute for a laser.
The following users liked this post:
Nitroflightro (09-09-2023)
09-15-2023, 05:44 AM
#20
049flyer looks great. Buddy of mine’s wife has a Cricut… she then purchased my first laser machine when I built a new one (buddy is a flyer as well) so I know they are decent with thin material. I am actually going to upgrade once again so I can cut 1/2 balsa and 1/4” plywood early next year as even my dual laser 20W output cannot keep up with the orders. LOL. Guess that is a good thing, right? Takes me about 30 minutes to cut my 1/2A Japanese warbird kits I resurrected (Kate and Jill) with nothing over 1/8” thick.
Most importantly, I am glad to see others keeping these ‘old birds’ in long or short kits alive. Keep on flyin’
Pete
vintageplanekits.com
Most importantly, I am glad to see others keeping these ‘old birds’ in long or short kits alive. Keep on flyin’
Pete
vintageplanekits.com
10-09-2023, 08:28 AM
#22
They can be but i'll be honest, i don't have time in the near future to cut any kits. I am in the process of a kitchen remodel for our son and his wife before their baby arrives.... so most free time (not at work) is spent doing that. hit me up towards end of october or first part of november if you are still interested. thank you for the concideration.
10-09-2023, 04:49 PM
#23
Junior Member
After kicking this around for some time now, I have decided that maybe I will offer the short kit of the unique parts less the fuselage… since some like to move the wing forward and/or extend the tail (as stated above and by others I have spoken to) and include the paper/cardboard template for the fuselage. That way the builder can use a solid 1/2” sheet balsa as well as make any adjustments to the template before cutting the balsa. The Fuselage is easy enough to cut vs all the ribs and other unique parts… keeps the cost down on the short kit and provide a degree of modification if desired. What Y’all think?
11-19-2023, 10:28 PM
#25
Kitchen remodel complete. Back to my stuff. Been cutting some ribs this weekend. Can have rib kits available by weeks end. Optional full size plans too.
Let me know if interested.
18 laser cut ribs
12 laser cut wing tip parts
30 balsa pieces total
Let me know if interested.
18 laser cut ribs
12 laser cut wing tip parts
30 balsa pieces total