MrMotor

Ron
You realize that the 1A is the later version with 2 spars and a sheeted LE back to the spars.

O2AFAC67

Hi, Paul. No, I didn't know that about the S-1A Ringmaster. In fact, I unfortunately cannot recall which version, 1 or 1A, I built as a kid. I was around 13 at the time, I think. I do remember wetting the silkspan with a water spray bottle and doping it on. Does the leading edge wrapping back to the spar mean I have to use monokote or something like it? That came well after my time, I think... I'm assuming the "1A" is indeed the better ship to build and fly with the updates made from the original??? I think I'm remembering only one spar in the wing of the ones I built back then. Maybe not. Anyway, all comments and hints are certainly helpful and appreciated!!!

Regards,
Ron Scott

50+AirYears

No, you can still cover the wing any old way, traditional or new-fangled.

gcb

If you did not sheet the wing it was an S1. The S1-A was an "improved" version. Someone on another thread said that the S1-A builds lighter even with the sheeting because it has a lighter leading edge. Although I thought it was a "C" tube wing, someone mentioned it was a "D" tube so with webbing between the spars it should be more rigid. Note: This is speculation, I have never built the S1-A.

Because the changes came after the OTS cut-off date, you can not use the S1-A for Old Time Stunt at contests. The S1-A probably flies better.
Some people use the kit parts to make templates and build from copied parts. This allows you to select your own wood, and also permits you to resell the kit (less shrink wrap). It will probably devalue the kit somewhat but you could resell it and recover some of your costs. Just a thought.
Another thought. If you desire to build an S-1, it is kitted by RSM (good wood, laser cut parts, excellent kit, I'm told). A laser cut kit would still be cheaper than *bay, if you intend to build.

George

jessiej

[I still have a tube of Ambroid, but I read a post recently that said it is no longer made. Not sure if this is true. There are lots of adhesives available today]

My LHS stocks Ambroid (maybe because I buy a bunch of it) and Tower lists it. I think Ambroid also makes a cement for plastic models.

jess

gcb

Here is a pic of my old Ringmaster. It's from an Estes kit created just after they acquired Sterling.
Of course the Fox runs much better when I install the tank.

George

O2AFAC67

Hello, all. Well, I'm happy (???) to report on the acquisition of a number of items putting me on the way back into the C/L stunt hobby. Either that or a way into "Ebay Anonymous" as an addict.
My gosh, I now have:

ENGINES
2 each never used "New in Box" McCoy Redhead Stunt 35's.
1 each never used "New in Box" Fox C/L stunt 35.
1 each barely used Enya C/L 35.
1 each never used "New in Box" McCoy Series 21 "throttle control" 35. Note: I didn't realize this when i bought the series 21 engine. Is it still usable for C/L stunt by "disconnecting" the throttle linkage? It has the "Perry Carburetor" which I am assuming is for R?C use? Any suggestions here would be appreciated.
2 each never used "New in Box" Cox "Babe Bee" .049 engines.

KITS
1 each "New in Box" (original shrink wrap) Sterling S-1A Ringmaster
1 each "New in Box" (Original shrink wrap) Sterling S-1 Ringmaster
1 each Brodak "Nobler" with composite cowl
1 each "New in Box" Sterling Yak-9 (S-3)
1 each "New in Box" Sterling P-51 (S-2)
1 each "New in Box" Sterling "Beginners Ringmaster" S-30
1 each "New in Box" Sterling "Baby Ringmaster" S-13
1 each "New in Box" 1/2A Sig Beech "Staggerwing"

WORST LOSS
Got outbid on a "Tucker Special" kit. What a beautiful airplane!! Guess I'll have to visit RSM or get lucky on Ebay or maybe here.

ANYWAY....
Just receiving the stuff in the mail makes me feel like a kid at Christmas. What fun! When I finish this last "residence move" next week I hope I'll be able to start building one of the kits. I'm really looking forward to flying C/L stunt again! Again, any help or advice is certainly appreciated!!

BTW, I attached a couple of pics of my O-2A (closest to the camera) which I sold a few years ago. A group of us fly CAF "Viet Nam Warbird Tribute" airshows down here in the South. (Complete with narration and "Rolling Stones" music!) I'm getting a little old for it now and playing too much golf anyway. More reasoning behind starting up C/L flying again. LOL!!

Regards,
Ron Scott

gcb

Ron,

Just a thought. If you find a kit on ebay that is also available from a current kitmaker, you might consider getting it from the kitmaker if you intend to build it. Otherwise, you may end up building an old kit with somewhat questionable wood that costs more than a laser cut select balsa kit. Some of the kit COLLECTORS pay premium prices for kits...especially ones that still have the shrink wrap.

Your choice, of course. Good luck and have fun building the ones you have.

Oh, additional thought. Don't know how long you've been away from modeling, but beware of "RC" fuels in the old iron/steel engines like McCoy .35 and Fox .35. Look for fuel that has at least 25% oil, preferably mostly castor.

George

Old Sourdough

Re: your last paragraph, George, AMEN!!

Fox, SIG and Powermaster make suitable fuels for these older engines. There may be others, but these are the ones with which I'm familiar and can recommend.

RRyan

I love McCoys, here are a few shotsof my Shoestring powered by Mc .35