rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I have a model I've sprayed with Brodak dope. I want to add lettering to the wing such as my AMA number, etc.

How do you c/l master painters mask off for painting letters? I could use use decals, but are they dope proof?

Here's what I was thinking:

Print out the letters on printer paper.

Cut them out with a #11 blade.

Tape the "stencil" onto the wing.

Go around the edges of the paper cutouts with 1/8" Scotch plastic tape.

I'm sure there's a better method.

Thanks. Here's a pic of the plane:

David

NEW222

nice looking plane you got there. you need a test pilot? i have not done that method yet myself on a plane with dope but have done similar stuff in the past using the paper stencil thing. once cut out spray with 3M-77 adhesive. a light coat will do. sticks good and lifts off easily. done right you should have no problems. hope this helps. there is probably other brands out there but this is what i use.

Phlip

I've used masking tape with dope. I'd be very careful with plastic tape and dope ... the dope will probably dissolve the plastic.

I think the 77 spray adhesive is a good idea.

Are you going to airbrush or brush paint the lettering?

build light

Whether you spray or brush, one of the biggest problems faced is that of the darker color leaking under the tape creating a small but ugly mess.

One of the biggest tricks to the above problem is to lay down a coat of clear after you have masked the area(s) desired and let that dry thoroughly. This will do a great deal against the leaching under the masking. Usually eliminates it entirely.

David, I don't know about the plastic with dope either... I would go with traditional cellelose based masking tape.

Robert

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the replies.

I've been using Scotch plastic tape with great success with dope on a few models now. The advantage is that it stretches and bends around tight curves without buckling up. So far it has proven impervious to dope.

Does the Super77 leave any residue on the surface? I will be clear coating over the letters and don't want any kind of reaction to occur.

Jim Thomerson

I've used various auto supply red, blue, and green plastic tapes with no problem. Sealing the edges with clear dope is usually done, but I have a burnishing tool which sticks the edges down nicely. Using tape, what I do is draw the letters on with a watersoluable color pen. Tape them up, paint them with a brush, and then take the tape up. Use a damp Q-tip to remove any showing pen color. I try to use the same color as the letters, but it doesn't make much difference.

There is a brown plastic tape sold at the hobby shop which does not do curves well, but is great for straight lines.

I once watched George Aldrich build a Nobler. He painted and pinstriped the numbers freehand. I was impressed.

There is a

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks again, everyone. I've decided to use Frisket film which is .002" vinyl with a low-tack adhesive. You cut out your letters or numbers and stick the film onto the surface and spray your paint. It is supposed to peel right up without leaving any residue. Here's the stuff:

http://www.grafixarts.com/frisket_film.htm

I also think that those vinyl cutting machines will probably cut this stuff. There's a guy named Bill Fulmer who cuts vinyl graphics for model planes. I've asked him if his equipment will cut the frisket.

http://www.customcutgrafix.com/

David

Lou Crane

David,

I'd still be careful about the effect of the thinner on the frisket...

If you have a scrap surface with a similar finish, or even a scrap of glass to try on, by all means do so! (A glass surface is about the easiest to clean up with thinner and perhaps an X-Acto blade scraper...)

I tried a frisket material once that had all the applications claimed with all the products in the catalog at your link. I dodn't see anything that claimed compatibility with laquer or dope thinners. These are powerful solvents! The frisket I tried puckered, lifted, wrinkled and sucked dope under the frazzled edges. NOT a pretty sight.

A mess. Hope your projected material is better.

I've only glanced through some of the posts above... Has anyone mentioned low-tack shelf liner? Haven't tried that, but hear it is simpler than the masking I've built up on glass using a #11 blade to cut outlines.

Jim Thomerson

Shelf liner will wrinkle with dope unless one is careful.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I'm waiting to here back from Bill Fulmer at customcutgrafix.com as to whether his vinyl masks will stand up to dope.

Since the mask only needs to stay on the model until the dope is no longer tacky I think it will work. Besides, by spraying the dope I can do light coats that will go easier on the vinyl.

Tom Nied

Curious. What did you use to mask the white/blue on your plane? Wouldn't that work for masking letters as well? An old wing covered with the same products would be handy as a test surface. Also, I've had pretty good luck with vinyl electrical tape for masking. Keep your font simple, like Aerial Bold.

Avaiojet

Brushing dope can be a problem because it dries quickly. Use retarder.

Charles

http://www.cfcgraphics.com

Really Control line friendly!

Thanks

.

Black Arrow

I have had some bad experiences with frisket paper. I don't like the stuff. It just doesn't stick well enough for me. I like to use tape, seal the edges with clear and then spray color with an airbrush. The airbrush is a huge advantage because you can mist on light coats of color that will dry to the touch in a few minutes and help prevent the subsequent coats from disolving the tape's glue and bleeding under as you build up the opacity. I don't like frisket paper!

cutaway

If you can find it, a sheet of Avery/Fasson FasCal 1200 (about a 2 mil clear polyester film) has a lightish tack removable adhesive. There is a myriad of different FasCal products. I used to use the 700 all the time as a covering material. Its sticky was more powerful than the 1200. Both were heat shrinkable and much stronger than any of the hobby shop iron on plastic coverings.

[email protected]

I just go down to the local sign shop and have them cut my AMA number out of the thin plastic numbers. I usually place the AMA number on the outboard wing up near the leading edge (as far out as looks decent) to keep it out of the fuel exhaust stream. Nice professional looking job....just a little expensive.

I use 2" Tahoma bold font. I have never lost a number yet due to fuel. By the way, they will also cut any nice graphics for you as long as you email it to them or bring it in on a disk.