yokozuna316

hi all..can anyone tell me if theyve seen how well the belcrank is secured inside the artf(tower hobbies)model?
its almost ready to go but id like to see if i can bolt on my fox 36x and still have the plane after a few laps..[X(]
ive been out of flying for about 7 years and miss it badly..so im going to get back to building again..
id like to order one from tower to get up in the air sooner while i build..[8D]

yokozuna316

ive done some research and found out about it myself..
i cant believe how helpful some ppl are here(or not..)

r2champion

I haven't personally built the flight streak, however my dad has, and still has it after powering it with a Fox 35 Stunt. All I can say is use long lines and hold on, its fast! I would imagine the Fox 36 will be fine. As far as the bellcrank, I have never examined it to give specifics, but I would imagine it will not be a problem. I hope this answers your question.

Also, as far as no one responding to your first post, I would imagine very few people on here are interested in control line now verses how popular it was in the past (I might be completely wrong but I am fairly young, just an observation), especially ones that might have built the Flight Streak. However it is unusal to see a post go unanswered.

Good luck with your plane!

COPO

I feel your frustration. Try this place. Much more active and will get answers quckly.


http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcb...pics&forum=103

gcb

Not so! Many people are interested in CL. As you mentioned, many have BUILT Flite Streaks. Perhaps not so many here have the ARF version and can speak for it. I would suggest you do a search on the ARF FS.

The original FS was designed for the Fox .36 "combat special". Today it is mostly used for sport and as a stunt trainer. Many prefer a modern .20 - .25 to the old Fox because of vibration. Either will work.

I think the balance point shown for the ARF was WAY back from where it should be originally. Perhaps this has been changed. Most seem to balance them at or forward of the wing spar...at least in the beginning.

Most of this informaqtion is from reading old posts. I have never had the ARF version so I can not address the bellcrank issue.

But don't think folks are not responsive on this thread, you just asked a question that few can address.

George

yokozuna316

hey guys..i didnt mean to sound harsh or anything..
ive been out of airplanes for awhile and wanted some tips on getting back in the game..[8D]
i have an old voodoo that ill be installing a fox 35 on to break me back in...lol
if i can handle a voodoo i think ill be able to handle a big part of whats out there...
this is the older voodoo with the short booms on it..

gcb

I never had a Voodoo but I do have a Carl Goldberg Jr. Satan (.15, built many years ago, not flown [] ) and a Li'l Satan kit, both of which were derived from the Voodoo, I think.

There is a Voodoo double kit on ebay, and plans - with extended booms.

George

Lou Crane

There should be plenty of detailed comment in the archives on StukaStunt forum.

The TF Flite Streak ARF is usually well-done, and quite light. The only concern I'd have with a 36X or similar is that I recall them as pretty strong shakers. The front end of the TF ARF has had some comments about being a bit softer than the guy posting would have liked. There have been some suggestions for how to stiffen it, or at least, how to improve the 'hardness' for the engine mount bolts.

The original question was about the bellcrank mounting, right? The BC mounting is at least as solid as the original TF FS 1950's kit, anyway. The leadouts were discussed on various sites.The TF ARFs have used an odd looking method of connecting the leadouts. Several of us have changed them to what we prefer. Not particularly easy; may involve some oral encouragement (cussing); but a definite 'ease of mind' effort. Haven't heard/read much about this with the FS ARF, but frequently about the Nobler ARF.

I'd have jumped in sooner, but just back from a week traveling.

BTW, be sure you balance a bit forward of the indicated CG! 3/8" to 1/2" ahead for starters... The Flite Streak is a fantastically maneuverable design, and the TF ARF is light enough that you get ALL of that!

Have FUN!

yokozuna316

the more i bang it around in my mind the more i think of how much better off ill be by building a whole new kit...
this way i wont be limited as to what engine i can run on it..as long as the holes line up...lol
il bet that a well built flite streak will be a dandy to fly with a fox 40bb delux or even an la 40 or fp 40(os)..
i can get a kit from lonestar for 40bux plus shipping...

Jim Thomerson

I have a Flite Streak built from the Brodak kit, which is the original George Aldrich design. I have a ST G20-23 on it; went down to a 1/8 diameter venturi and 9 x 4 prop to slow it down enough (60 ft 015 lines) that I could fly a stunt pattern with it. Still fairly quick. George put the CG right behind the wooden leading edge. Mine is a little farthur back, maybe 1/2 in, and it is very stable and turns well.

Dan Vincent

Two of my all-time C/L favorites were the Flite-streak Jr and the Jr. Satan, both powered by .19 engines.

I used a K&B Greenhead, Testors-McCoy and Fox .19 engines.

On 60' lines they will really perform.

yokozuna316

i had a jr flite streak also...it had the fox 15bb on it..
it really moved with that lil 15 on it...52 foot lines..
lonestar has the kit for 33bux plus shipping...just mite have to get one of them also...lol

COPO

I have a Flite Streak hanging in my shop right now that I built about 25 years ago. Still has no covering on it as I never finished it. In the near future it should be finished to give it a try. I also have 3 new Flite Streak kits that will someday be built. Currently amongst other projects, I have a Baby Flite Streak that I am scratch building.

gcb: The Jr. satan line made me chuckle. I have one also, built, and never flown. maybe someday.

Jim Thomerson

A Jr Flitestreak was a favorite airplane. I built one for a TD 09 with the nose extended a little for balance. CG about 3/8 in front of where the Brodak plan shows. Placed in Advanced with it a couple of times. Went to 57 ft 012 lines. Retired the airplane. A friend flew it into a tree and another friend is (slowly) repairing it.

gcb

The long version: Built in the seventies, Max-III .15 installed. Years in and out of modeling. Back into RC in the late nineties, then switched mostly back to CL. Poor Jr. Satan suffering from bad hangar rash, including some of the lite-ply starting to delaminate. Fixed the ply and recovered/repainted. When I do fly it I will be alone except for launcher...just in case I missed a structural degrade. Will use same Max-III because my older reflexes couldn't handle anything modern in such a small ship. [&o]

I'll also take pics in case there is only one flight...

George

Jim Thomerson

Here is a photo of my Flite Streak, with Rivers Silver Arrow diesel. It now has ST G20-23 glow. Covered in silk, with the red on the wing being red tissue, blue is Aerogloss Curtis blue.

COPO

Jim, how do you get that look of what appears to be a clear yellow? Is it just clear dope? I like how you can see the ribs.

Also how easy or hard, is the colored tissue paper to work with?

Jim Thomerson

Well, I cheated a little on the colors. On the red parts: red silk on fuselage and tail, red tissue on wing, I poured a little, few drops, red Aerogloss Stearman red, without mixing it up, into Sig Litecoat clear. I brushed this on like it was clear dope. There is enough texture on the silk and tissue that you can't see the brush strokes. I have some yellow dye in butyrate dope that a friend gave me. It was dye sold for use on polyspan. Put some of this into Sig Litecoat and sprayed the red and yellow (yellow silk) parts of the airplane. Then masked off the blue and black areas and painted them with brush. Didn't get any bleed through of the yellow. The numbers are cut from black art tissue.

I put a couple of coats of very thin clear on the wing before sticking the red tissue and black numbers down with thinner.

Dan Vincent

Jim,

That's a beauty.

Got me thinking 'bout getting another F/S Jr. for one of my old .19's.

Maybe I'll try this Veco .19 this time. Also have a McCoy Stunt .19 and a Testors-McCoy .19 Lightning Bolt case.

Lou Crane

Just curious, Dan,

Does your McCoy Stunt .19 have a 2-ring p/c setup?

If it's a runner, how does it do?

Dan Vincent

Lou,

My McCoy Stunt .19 has a lapped piston with the window type sleeve.

Picked this one about ten years ago and haven't run it yet. It has plenty of compression and seems very tight so it probably has very little running time on it.

I had a .19 and a .29 like this back in the '50's and they ran pretty well but were not quite up to the performance of the K&B greenheads.

cutaway

The T/F kit flight streaks had a semi-weak bellcrank mount scheme IMO. I had a couple of stock ones fail on "vigorous" pull tests at contests, so I always beefed them up after that. Don't know about the ARF.

I also found that shaving about 1/8" off the back side of the stab mount on the fuse (i.e. remove a 1/8" wedge tapering to zero at the stab LE so the fixed stab has a slight positive incidence) vastly improved the Streak's outside loop performance while not hurting inside loops in any noticible way. The wing/tail not being on a common centerline and fairly close coupling seemed to have the wing masking the tail airflow somewhat on the outside loops.

The doublers on the kit ones were also kinda minimal. I always cut my own and ran'em back over the wing several inches further than stock. That canopy block can be positioned a bit forward to add some cross section and help beef up the front too.

mole2000

I recently bought and flew the arf FS powered by an oslas 25..a friend of mine bought the same setup..BE CAREFUL...his went straight up and down and so did mine...destroying both planes..I'm no expert, but I'm convinced the CG is way too far aft. I had a chance to see the innards of mine after the crash...the profile is a junk boxlike construction..the wing center area snapped like a toothpick..the only part I kept was the bellcrank and leadouts....I'll tell ya, the next time I spent 50 bucks, it will be for balsa and plans..this was my first and LAST arf.....I enjoy building my own even more after after seeing this mess. Hope this helps anyone considering the ARF version

gcb

The C/G on my Brodak kit plans is 1" behind the front of the wing leading edge.

George

Dan Vincent

Found an old picture of my Jr. Satan F/S JR. The Satan had a K&B .19 Greenhead and the F/S was wearing a Fox .19 when I shot this picture. Sometimes I had a Testors-McCoy .19 in the nose of the F/S.

I had been flying a lot of .29 and .35 models and was pleasently surprised at how a .19 could keep the lines tight and had more than enough power for stunts.

This picture was cropped from an old Kodak 127 photo as it was before I started using higher quality 35mm cameras.