Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
#26
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
The Brodak kits are VERY close copies of the Goldberg kits. The box art is the same and the plans are the same blue line art drawings.
One thing I intend to change though is the firwall mount. The kit uses a plastic mount but mine will have the balsa fairing blocks and the landing gear placement as on the original. It's just not a Li'l Jumpin' Bean without it.
Mike
#27
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
It's almost silly to say it, but Ibought my first "Bean" because of those balsa cheek blocks. Ithought it made the plane look som much more "cool" than the Baby Ringmaster with the clunky metal bolted mounts.
#28
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
ORIGINAL: BtnFlyGuy
It's almost silly to say it, but I bought my first ''Bean'' because of those balsa cheek blocks. I thought it made the plane look som much more ''cool'' than the Baby Ringmaster with the clunky metal bolted mounts.
It's almost silly to say it, but I bought my first ''Bean'' because of those balsa cheek blocks. I thought it made the plane look som much more ''cool'' than the Baby Ringmaster with the clunky metal bolted mounts.
When I compared those two features, my consideration was how universal that hadware was and while not nearly as good looking, it was reusable so that I could nore easily build another model from scratch and not have to buy as much hardware to get into the air!
Also not looking quite as cool but more practical was the Wizard's firewall with the break a way feature which to my mind was more durable if not kind of hokey looking with the rubber bands.
So for me it was practical, for you it was aesthetic. for someone else who knows what but the box art is/was very important if you picked out the kit yourself.
Robert
#29
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
It's true I have more of an aesthetic view. Also one of the reasons I loved the semi-scale stunters and planes that looked like their real or "possible" counterparts. Ido admit to having more than a few batches of practical hardware on hand for engineering and try to to blend the engineering with the look; the difference between a Tupolev ANT-6 heavy bomber and a B-17 for example.
#30
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
ORIGINAL: build light
the Wizard's firewall with the break a way feature which to my mind was more durable if not kind of hokey looking with the rubber bands.
Robert
the Wizard's firewall with the break a way feature which to my mind was more durable if not kind of hokey looking with the rubber bands.
Robert
I bought a Bradak kit of the Goldberg Lil Wizard a few weeks ago. The nose has been redesigned to accomodate beam mount engines like a TD or Norvel. No plastic engine mount here. The engine bearers are good solid hardwood. The wasp .061 engine, which is a beam mount engine, is currently enjoying a bit of popularity among 1/2a controlline flyers. Also, both versions of the Brodak .049 as well as the Brodak .061 are beam mount engines.
#31
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
Here is a Carl Goldberg "Lil Wizaed" my grandson built & is learning to fly C/L on. He built the plane & painted it, I helped put the trim colors on. He is 10 years old & is learning how to build, so we started with something simple. Brodak dope....Gene
#32
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
ORIGINAL: Wayne C
I bought a Bradak kit of the Goldberg Lil Wizard a few weeks ago. The nose has been redesigned to accomodate beam mount engines like a TD or Norvel. No plastic engine mount here. The engine bearers are good solid hardwood. The wasp .061 engine, which is a beam mount engine, is currently enjoying a bit of popularity among 1/2a controlline flyers. Also, both versions of the Brodak .049 as well as the Brodak .061 are beam mount engines.
I bought a Bradak kit of the Goldberg Lil Wizard a few weeks ago. The nose has been redesigned to accomodate beam mount engines like a TD or Norvel. No plastic engine mount here. The engine bearers are good solid hardwood. The wasp .061 engine, which is a beam mount engine, is currently enjoying a bit of popularity among 1/2a controlline flyers. Also, both versions of the Brodak .049 as well as the Brodak .061 are beam mount engines.
IMHO both the TD and NORVEL (CL version) are too powerful. I do not yet have the Brodak engines you mention so I can not comment on them.
Good luck with it.
George
#36
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
If you want plans, there's a version of the Stuntman 23 called the "Stunt Chimp". The link to the free plans is here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_51...tm.htm#5135104
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_51...tm.htm#5135104
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
Hi,
does anyone know where i could buy a Profi or Fora .061 high performance engine.
Or any other brand high performance .061 engine.
does anyone know where i could buy a Profi or Fora .061 high performance engine.
Or any other brand high performance .061 engine.
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
I built several of the goldberg c/l kits as a kid.
The first was a lil' jumpin' bean (LJB) that I did a crappy job on. I later built another and it was probably the best job I ever did on a c/l model. Crashed it to splinters when I failed to pull out of a wingover flying of blacktop.
In a fit of nostalga I bought a brodak kit. I haven't built it yet (just came in mail last night) but opened the box and looked it over. It is not really the same kit at all, some ways better, some ways a little dissapointing:
-The laser cutting is NICE. I have been out of the hobby for a decade or so, and this is my first laser cut kit. WOW! I don't miss the half-way and still crushed die cutting at all. Downside is it looks like a couple of parts fell out of one sheet before they got into the box. Reinforcement for the center of LE and TE I think...they are simple and there is plenty enough scrap to cut new ones from.
-TheoriginalLJB used self jigging ribs. The ribs had tabs that supported them that you broke off after the wing was built. The Brodak kit comes with four jig blocks to support the leading and trailing edges. The Brodak way probably works better with laser cutting, as the old way depended on you being able to leave the jig tabs attached to ribs even though they were die cut.
-Theoriginalhad a plastic canopy, and a little balsa half pilot (with a yellow shirt and red baseball cap IIRC) you put decals on. The Brodak kit has a canopy shaped hump on the balsa fuse...this is probably the biggest issue I have with the kit....I think it changes the character of the model a lot, but since I haven't built it yet, maybe I will be fine with it.
-The origional had a plywood firewall with balsa blocking support. The brodak kit is beam mounts by default, but it includes a plastic T bracket for tank mount engines. The origional had the firewall pretty much on the LE, but you'd have to cut wing clearance in the T bracket to do that. If you know how the origional was, it wouldn't be hard to cut a plywood firewall and blocking to get back to that.
-TheoriginalLE had a groove down the backside that locked it to the ribs vertically, no need with the brodak jig blocks and CA, but maybe a little heavier. Also, the old way could make the ribs stand proud of LE on one side or the other because the die cut ribs didn't have the locating tab in exactly the right place, and the afformentiond groove could be a little off center. Fixing this before gluing the LE on was one thing that made my second LJB much better. Overall, win for Brodak.
-The origional had eliptical wingtips that were laminated from two layers of 1/16" balsa, with non-overlapping joints. This allowed the grain to follow the curve. The brodak tips are one piece of 1/8", so the area near the LE has the grain running chordwise instead of span wise. It looks to be good wood, but I think ol' CG had a better idea.
-Origional had you use scrap from the canopy as leadout eyes, Brodak supplies wire and grommets, win brodak.
-The CG kit had a tailwheel, the Brodak uses a skid.
-Brodak kit has real plans plotted from CAD and an instruction book. Origional had plan only for wing build (no rib patterns even) and hand drawn isometric instructions on the same sheet. The brodak plans are nice, but I kind of miss the vintage instructions, flying tips etc.
Stuff that is the same as I recall:
-Except for the afformentioned canopy and firewall issues, it is recognizably the same airplane with the same nice lines. I think starting out with the LJB is part of the reason I like the lines of a Globe Swift so much, but maybe not, because I know of no pilot that finds the GS ugly.
-Preformed LG, with rubber band holding it forward...the Brodak kit is a LITTLE bit different, but maybe better.
-Cloth hinge material. included.
-The Brodak kit still includes tissue covering, but maybe a little better grade than the old kits came with...that would be good, because the old stuff was pretty delicate. I think I will use mica-film regardless.
-Brodak kit includes decals that are exactly as I recall from the origional. I don't have the kit here, and I didn't notice if the pilot decal was there.
So those are my impressions. What is the state of the art in fuel proof paint/dope for 1/2A models these days?
The first was a lil' jumpin' bean (LJB) that I did a crappy job on. I later built another and it was probably the best job I ever did on a c/l model. Crashed it to splinters when I failed to pull out of a wingover flying of blacktop.
In a fit of nostalga I bought a brodak kit. I haven't built it yet (just came in mail last night) but opened the box and looked it over. It is not really the same kit at all, some ways better, some ways a little dissapointing:
-The laser cutting is NICE. I have been out of the hobby for a decade or so, and this is my first laser cut kit. WOW! I don't miss the half-way and still crushed die cutting at all. Downside is it looks like a couple of parts fell out of one sheet before they got into the box. Reinforcement for the center of LE and TE I think...they are simple and there is plenty enough scrap to cut new ones from.
-TheoriginalLJB used self jigging ribs. The ribs had tabs that supported them that you broke off after the wing was built. The Brodak kit comes with four jig blocks to support the leading and trailing edges. The Brodak way probably works better with laser cutting, as the old way depended on you being able to leave the jig tabs attached to ribs even though they were die cut.
-Theoriginalhad a plastic canopy, and a little balsa half pilot (with a yellow shirt and red baseball cap IIRC) you put decals on. The Brodak kit has a canopy shaped hump on the balsa fuse...this is probably the biggest issue I have with the kit....I think it changes the character of the model a lot, but since I haven't built it yet, maybe I will be fine with it.
-The origional had a plywood firewall with balsa blocking support. The brodak kit is beam mounts by default, but it includes a plastic T bracket for tank mount engines. The origional had the firewall pretty much on the LE, but you'd have to cut wing clearance in the T bracket to do that. If you know how the origional was, it wouldn't be hard to cut a plywood firewall and blocking to get back to that.
-TheoriginalLE had a groove down the backside that locked it to the ribs vertically, no need with the brodak jig blocks and CA, but maybe a little heavier. Also, the old way could make the ribs stand proud of LE on one side or the other because the die cut ribs didn't have the locating tab in exactly the right place, and the afformentiond groove could be a little off center. Fixing this before gluing the LE on was one thing that made my second LJB much better. Overall, win for Brodak.
-The origional had eliptical wingtips that were laminated from two layers of 1/16" balsa, with non-overlapping joints. This allowed the grain to follow the curve. The brodak tips are one piece of 1/8", so the area near the LE has the grain running chordwise instead of span wise. It looks to be good wood, but I think ol' CG had a better idea.
-Origional had you use scrap from the canopy as leadout eyes, Brodak supplies wire and grommets, win brodak.
-The CG kit had a tailwheel, the Brodak uses a skid.
-Brodak kit has real plans plotted from CAD and an instruction book. Origional had plan only for wing build (no rib patterns even) and hand drawn isometric instructions on the same sheet. The brodak plans are nice, but I kind of miss the vintage instructions, flying tips etc.
Stuff that is the same as I recall:
-Except for the afformentioned canopy and firewall issues, it is recognizably the same airplane with the same nice lines. I think starting out with the LJB is part of the reason I like the lines of a Globe Swift so much, but maybe not, because I know of no pilot that finds the GS ugly.
-Preformed LG, with rubber band holding it forward...the Brodak kit is a LITTLE bit different, but maybe better.
-Cloth hinge material. included.
-The Brodak kit still includes tissue covering, but maybe a little better grade than the old kits came with...that would be good, because the old stuff was pretty delicate. I think I will use mica-film regardless.
-Brodak kit includes decals that are exactly as I recall from the origional. I don't have the kit here, and I didn't notice if the pilot decal was there.
So those are my impressions. What is the state of the art in fuel proof paint/dope for 1/2A models these days?
#41
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
CajunAce,
Can't really tell by the pic, did the firewall delaminate or come loose?
First thought was, forgot to double-cement. Second thought was, lite-ply?
Nice looking Lil' Satan!
George
Can't really tell by the pic, did the firewall delaminate or come loose?
First thought was, forgot to double-cement. Second thought was, lite-ply?
Nice looking Lil' Satan!
George
#42
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
I built a number of those little Goldberg kits when I was a kid but can't remember which ones. That was 53 - 54 years ago. I loved those things. They were simple to build, flew great and were tough as nails. I have no idea what happened to any of them. I don't remember crashing any of them but I had a few very hard landings.
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
It is not really the same kit at all, some ways better, some ways a little dissapointing:
The original had a plastic canopy, and a little balsa half pilot
The origional had a plywood firewall with balsa blocking support.
The origional had eliptical wingtips that were laminated from two layers of 1/16" balsa
The origional had a plywood firewall with balsa blocking support.
The origional had eliptical wingtips that were laminated from two layers of 1/16" balsa
Brodak kit has real plans plotted from CAD and an instruction book. Origional had plan only for wing build (no rib patterns even) and hand drawn isometric instructions on the same sheet. The brodak plans are nice, but I kind of miss the vintage instructions, flying tips etc.
I need to get back to mine. I have the wing framed up and the tail feathers assembled, just need to finish it off. I don't remember how the old one flew, hopefully the new one flies good. I also have a Brodak Baby Flite Streak that I haven't started and I'm currently flying a Brodak P-51 and a Brodak Original Flite Streak with a Fox .35 Stunt. Having a blast with that one!
Mike
#45
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
ORIGINAL: CajunAce
I was a clean break and isnt nothing some epoxy cant fix. I was stupid enough to use basic CA to glue the firewall lol
I was a clean break and isnt nothing some epoxy cant fix. I was stupid enough to use basic CA to glue the firewall lol
George
#46
RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
ORIGINAL: electrofiz
Hi,
does anyone know where i could buy a Profi or Fora .061 high performance engine.
Or any other brand high performance .061 engine.
Hi,
does anyone know where i could buy a Profi or Fora .061 high performance engine.
Or any other brand high performance .061 engine.
Just Google Fora engines or Profi engines and you'll get many sources, mostly in Russia or Ukraine
#48
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
Fora engines and other stuff, mostly combat.
http://pages.prodigy.net/gcleveland_grsmodels/
Engine page
http://pages.prodigy.net/gcleveland_...ls/index3.html
George seems hard to contact lately and someone said he is rebuilding houses from Katrina.
If you leave him a message He should call back.
Nice guy that never defected to R/C like most of us.
David
http://pages.prodigy.net/gcleveland_grsmodels/
Engine page
http://pages.prodigy.net/gcleveland_...ls/index3.html
George seems hard to contact lately and someone said he is rebuilding houses from Katrina.
If you leave him a message He should call back.
Nice guy that never defected to R/C like most of us.
David
#49
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RE: Carl Goldberg's 1/2A C/L's
Just picked up vintage NIB Goldberg kit for the lil' Jumpin' Bean on that auction site for less than I gave for the Brodak reproduction.
Think I will build them both, and build the Brodak kit with the beam mounting, and either a tee-dee or an AP 061.
The vintage 'Bean will get the same Black Widow that flew my last one 30+ years ago.
fizzwater2: The origional came with more of an instruction sheet than plans. There was a plan view to build the wing over, but no rib or other patterns at all...just isometric step by step drawings showing what to do with all the die cut parts. The Brodak kit comes with complete plans, but I'm not sure it would match the origional close enough to use for repair after a crash.