Red Baron Dave

My Feedback: (13)

Hey Ken - Great job on the rebuild! I have my Dad's 80's 120 size high wing trainer with a ST3000 on it. I stripped off the contact paper and have it stripped down and going thru the glue removal. PITA. I will use your wing tip idea instead of molding new tips
As our club training coordinator I will offer this up for your 're-flight'
Get back into buddy box training with your club or another that has their own .40 size club trainers. Give them a donation for their program (to cover gas) and get past the dumb thumbs and just having someone to yak with as you are both flying the same model will give you a ton of confidence getting back to your old self with the new fingers.

Looking forward to your mug on the glass. I usually go black windows and then I am not tempted to do fun things like pilots!
Cheers
Red Baron Dave

flyingagin

Hey thanks Red Baron Dave
I also have a ST 3000. Love it. I got the engine and plane at least 3rd hand. The plane is darned heavy, but flies great, but does come in a little fast. I really have no qlue as to what the plane is. Any body have a guess? The canopy rotted out, so it needs another one. Dirt simple and fast. The oem muffler fell of in some cow feild. The hair spray can works a charm. more power and quiter. I will make a new muffler from an Aluminum Pepsi bottle. A little less frontal area and will look better.
The plane is stored at a freinds garrage. I am really considering bring it home this Saturday when i make a run out there to store some more stuff. Get a little more room for building.

Red Baron Dave

My Feedback: (13)

I gave it a long look and it doesn't ring a bell. This thread's plane before the strip looked like a smaller version Bud Nosen trainer, the one I had used something like a 100"+ wing and called for a .61 (very old plan)

Keep it up!

flyingagin

I have looked at a lot of models over the years it and have never ran across anything simular. Might be a one off. Built like the perverbial brick out house. flies like a low wing trainer.

Ken

flyingagin

I finnished the other 2 planes I was working on. Now back to the old ARF aka Windy Days. She is back on the building table and with out compition.

I started first on an area that was giving me fits. The bottoms airleron servos were touching the fabrick on the top of the wing and making a rather unsightly bumb, So I added 1/8 lite ply spacers to the mounts. Solved the first proplem but made my self another proplem. The servo hatch covers would no longer fit. The would no longer sit flush with the wing bottom. They were hitting the servo mount lugs (arms or whatever that part is called) and screws. 1rst pic shows interference area at the brass eyelets but on top.

After consulting with the expert boss, (wife) we decided I would have to make new covers. The opening in the base of the cover will be the size of the intire top of the servo including mount lugs. I will then build them up to with balsa to be even with the tops of the servos. That is kind of what I did before but but without the releife area for the lugs.
Pic 2 is new cover fitted in and the 3rd shows how it clears the whole servo. Still rough fitted.

Ken

flyingagin

These are the 2 birds I just finnished.
They are ready for test flights. .25 OS engines both. Hopefully this Saturday.
!rst pics are the one I finnished first. The 2nd 2 Are funny wing plane.
Here is a link to its build.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1642992

Ken

kenh3497

It's a little more work but I make my hatch covers and servo mounts are one in the same. I lay the servo on it's side and let the arm stick out through a slot in the cover. (the cover is 1/8 ply) Some 1/8 lite ply triangle stock shores up the hard wood servo mounts. So far so good, all have survived crashes without breakage.

Ken

flyingagin

Hi ken
Yeah I have done it that way before and am sort of wishing I had this time. I think It would have been a little cleaner. But I am committed at this point.

Ken

flyingagin

Made one hatch cover. Well actually remade one cover. I decided it was dumb to make all new covers. So I just cut away the part over the servo lugs and acourse the covers were then a drop in fit. Next added some 1/4" balsa on the outside and just kept building up and towards the servo. A little carving and sanding. Carved and sanded till the cover was flush with the top of the servo.
The Wife thinks they look better than before. A little paint and I think she is right.
One more to go.

Ken

flyingagin

This post is a bit off thread I think. But will show some of the concerns I am having with the old ARF.

I took the 2 little planes, funny wing and the .25 trainer to the local field today. In a nut shell, no joy. My old radio equipment needs to be replaced. The 2 planes have old 72 mhz Airtronics in them. Mid 90s. Brand new NMH 2000ma batteries flight and tx.
The ,25 trainer was first and lost radio response after take off. It went down with virtually no damage and funny wing failed range check, so did not even try it.

When I was installing sevros in all of these plane including the Arf (the thread subject) I kept ending up with dead servos out of my parts bins, for both the Airtronics in the 2 small planes and the Futaba for the ARF (S148 servos). Much sorting through and cutting leads off bad servos I had just enough working gear for all 3 planes.

So I am ready to toss all the old servos and go with new. (Hitec HS-322HD). Acourse the power is backwards to my old Airtroinics receivers (easy to get around). They will be plug and play for Futaba. I am using a Futable 7UAP in the old ARF.

I really think the old Airtronics receivers are toast and I have to wonder about the Futaba receivers.

I would love to just replace it all with modren 2.4 and 1 transmitter with mulltple mems.
Another option for now is to get new Futaba recievers for my 7UAP. it has 7 channels and 4 model memories (not expandable from my research). I have 2 receiversfor it, But can I trust them?

It is research time.
Money is tight.

I am open to suggestion.

I will get some work done on Windy Days (The old ARF) a little later. The other airleron servo cover will be a snap, now that I have a method.

Even though it was not a successfull day I enjoyed. And so did my wife who accompanied me.

Much to research and ponder while pressing forward on Windy Days.


Ken

flyingagin

What do you think about this?Castle Creations Berg 7P 7Ch FM Programmable Horiz Rx
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRJM0&P=0
And replace the s148 servos with these? Hitec HS-311 Servo Standard U
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEL5&P=0
Or would the ball bearing servo be a better way?


Ken

Live Wire

Just by chance The old airtronics and Futaba were not compatable do to the +& - being reversed until they changed plugs. Would pop the servo or burn the reciever. I use a lot of the older servos but have to change ends and check over .
Larry k

flyingagin

Yeah the darn + and - are opposites. Kind of reminds me of the old Beta VHS war. I have in the past slipped a # 11 exacto blade in the female plug, pulled the pins and then reversed the wires to get what I needed.

It is just time to file some old parts in the round file cabinate if I can't be tottally sure of it.
I will put theCastle Creations Berg 7P 7Ch FM in this plane and replace servos as well.
I will order 2Castle Creations Berg 4Ch units for the other 2 plane next payday. But I will get all on the freg for my Futaba 7UAF. only 1 transmitter to take out that way. I can always move a receiever to another transmitter for the cost of a new crystal $8.

Ken

flyingagin

Bothe airleron servo hatch covers are done. A little putty on them drying. Finale sanding tomorrow on them. I wont be able to paint them for a few days due to weather.

Time to move on to other parts.

I need to get some silver solder, Stay Bright. And a piece of tile to that I can use my torch on to solder. Make some proper control horns to fasten to the flap torque rods. I have a piece of brass 1/2" widw that is fairly thick, maybe between 1/64" and 1/32" thick. More than strong enough. Solder a strip of brass to a wheel collar. Or2 if i can manage to align them correctly (whols lined up) on opposite side of the brass strip. My bet is trying to get them align and solder is goin to a rather frustrating affair. I will give it a shot. see if I can figure out some kind of jig that the solder wont stick to.

If 2 collars proves to hard to do then one collar soldered to mthe brass strip will do. I will just drill and tap another hole for a second set screw at 90 degrees.Fully adjustable and removable.

At that point I can't think of anything else ramaining to be done to the wing.

Ken

flyingagin

Finished the airleron servo covers. Ireused the original ones, just sanded them down flat and then built the 1/32 ply plate with balsa. A bit of carving and sanding and now every thing but the very top of the servo is covered up.

Ken

flyingagin

I made new flap control arms. The originals were really crude and every time I looked at them they grated on me. Yeah I know that with the wing on they can't be seen, but they still bugged me.

Question what purpose could a could a bamboo skewer and aluminum foil serve in soldering?

?
?

OK holding parts in alignment.

I needed to solder wheel collars to the brass control arms that I had rough cut and drilled. A collar on each side with their respective set screws at 90 degrees to each other. All three holes had to line up perfectly in order to slip over the flap torque rod. If I put a 1/8" peice of rod thru the hole the whole darn affaire including the rod would all be soldered togeather.

I mulled this over for a couble of days. And then when I wasn't even thinking about it, it hit me. A bamboo scewer with a peice of aluminum foil wrapped aroun it. About 2 turns of the foil around the scewer and I had a perfect fit thru the collars and brass control arms. And the solder would not stick to the foil. Also the foil kept my scewer from going up in smoke when I applied the torch.

I used regular solder.

I found that my little pencel soldering iron that I use for electronics had enough heat or close to it. I sanded all the surfaces to be joined and then tinned them. Assembled the three parts over the foil wraped bamboo scewer. Held the iron tip to the top collar for a while till it looked like the solder was melting and flowing. Upon examination a couble of spots looked like cold soder joints. Not quit enough heat. I realy did not think it would be, but I was suprised that the little iron even got close.

So out came the propane torch. Reheated everything. Applied a little more solder. When the assembly was cool enogh to handle I tried to twist the collars off by bending the 4 40 bolts opposite each other that were in the set screw holes. I need 2 get 2 new bolts. The bolts bent. I think the control arm assemblies are strong enough.

The first picture is the original ugly make shift control arms that this little excersize replaces.

Ken

kenh3497

Looks pretty good Ken. You are giving me ideas for my Zlin build. The elevator control is buried in the fuse and I was wondering how to make it reliable. You solved the problem for me. Thanks!!!

Ken

flyingagin

You are welcom Ken

Were you referncing those brass flap control horns?

I am happy with them, but the next ones (and I will make more) I will make an aluminum spring clamp to hold the parts tight to each other. I will still do the bamboo skewer and foil trick to keep the hole in exact alignment, but will add in some good clamping force also.

One of the hats I wore in the Navy was a Micro minature repair tech. Man we worked (soldered) on some really tiny stuff. The solder job on those flap horns would not pass. None the less they are relly strong. I figure anything stronger than the srevo gears is strong enough.

Got to run to the LHS and get more parts to continue.

Ken

BTW Ken I lived in IA in 09, but down at the bottom south eastern corner. Loved it. But a man has to work and if jobs aren't local you move to them. Be sides my old bones don't tolerate cold to well.

Ken

flyingagin

The exaust sytem is really frustrating me, ggrrrrrrr.

To clear the cowl and bottom of the fuse I have to use an extension. I am use 1 extra muffler adapter to basicaly double the muffler body to engine exaust stack distance.

No big deal. Except this darn muffler system uses 5 40 bolts that are about 2 1/4". I need 3 1/4" to allow for the extension. I can't shorten the extension and have the muffler clear the cowl and fuse bottom.

I have hunted and hunted for bolts that are long enough. The longest 5 40 bolt I can find are only 2/12". that measly extra 1/4" does noting for me at all.

So it was sugested that I use some 4-40 all thread and nut each end. I cut some 4-40 to the needed length. Well that is a no go.

There ain't no way to assemble the 4-40 rods and muflfler parts. This approach requires nuts on both ends. The muffler end is inside the muffler tube at the front. The front end cap is also the bolt plate. It also has a 4-40 rod in it that runs the length of the muffler assembly to hold the end caps on.

There is absolutly no way to get nuts on the inside of the muffler.
I thought (very breifly) of running my 4-40 rods all the way thru the muffler by drilling a pair of holes exactly opposite the existing bolt holes.

Well that sure won't work either as the baffle tube and the length wise 4-40 rod that holds the end caps is very much right in the way. No way to run bolts thru the muffler.

So scratch any simbalence of either approach. Beleive me, I tried and abanded it.


So the other sugestion is to take a peice of music wire and use a torch to remove the tember. Then thread it to 6-32. retapping the front end cap / bolt plate to 6-32. I like it. It don't like me.

I been trying to buy music wire at the LHS. They have virtualy zip for stock and not any of it even slightly close. Way to small or way to big.

So I am at this time comletely frustrated and a bit p.o.d.

1st pic extension

2nd pic muffler parts and the 4-40 rods I cut. Correction. Note that the baffel plate does clear the nut plate and would clear the 4-40 rods and nuts. The front tube would interfere with any bolt thru attempt.

3rd pic rods into the bolt plate and front end cap.


Ken

kenh3497

Yes the flap horns. I like the idea! Heck you were living in the warm part of the state It is always at least 20 degrees colder up in the north central part of the state[:'(]

I'll be in be in your neck of the woods (Dallas) the first part of April for a couple of days. I'm going to school for a Kubota update class. The think they're gunna learn me sumthin

Ken

flyingagin

Thanks Ken. I thought of them (flap horns) some time back but just could not figure out to solder them up with out sticking up the works. I was kicking back for a nap and WACK, it just hit me! The bamboo skewer and foil trick. Still got my nap in.

Still struggling with the exhaust system. I will see if I can find some all thread 6 32. If so then I will just drill and tap the bolt plate appropiately. Jeesh, what a pain this little detail has become.

Another pain. The front bolt holes on the motor mount are stripped out. Can't tighten down the front of engine. Went to the hobby shop to get a new one. Naturally they don't have one. So I am just moving the engine back 1/2" on the mount. Naturaly I then have to compenstae by shifting the mount foward the same amount. I have some 1/2" birch 5 ply that I will cut into 1sg" spacers. My little jig saw will do the trick with some effort. Will have to wait till I can get outside on the patio.

Ken

flyingagin

I found some 4" 6/32 bolts today. Easy to cut down with my dremel. They are thread all the way but should be strong enough, I quess. I also found some music wire that is the same size as the bolt.

Just dug out my tap and die set. Well darn it now I got to buy a 6/32 tap and the corresponding drill bit. 7/64 or # 35. acrding to Bolt Depot.com.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...rill-Size.aspx

Ken

flyingagin

I got the muffler taped for the 6/32 mount bolts. Just using hardware store grade bolts as that was all I could find long enough. They are all thread. I was hoping to find some that were only threaded on the end, but no luck. I think threaded on the end only would have been stronger bolts. I had to turn the bolt heads down very, very slightly.

flyingagin

Ken

flyingagin

Ken