Rebuild and modification of a 15 year old ARF
I used Rustoleum Enamel Gloss White. Not spray, but brush on. It is kind of spotting at this time. I went as light as I resonably could, so less than ideal coverage is to expected with just one coat. I will use rattle can to add futher coats.
once I am satisfied with the white then I will start add some color to this thing. Still have not decided on what colors or patterns. I like plenty of contrast. Just so much easier for older eyes.
Just had to start moving foward again.
Will wate till I have the last of the white on then post a pic.
I am not only goin to have to put togeather a proper building area, but also some kind of spray area on the closed in patio area (apartment). As soon as I can flip some parts over I will spray the other sides.
Then I can put a second spray coat on.
I quess after that I can put some high closs clear on. Then for fuel proofing I will use Nelson's paints orWarbirdColors water based Urethaneclear.
Really starting to think about what color schemes I want.
And then I realized I had made a booboo. Sequince. I forgot to pin my hinges. So now I will have to go back and drill and pin them, then spot sand and spray white base coat on them.
I put cooking oil over the hinges before spraying so I hope they are not to hard to clean up.
After I covered and doped (clear nitrate) the plane I had some poor seams (frays) so I mixed some dope and micro balloons togeather and painted those seams with it, and the sanded till it looked nice and smooth. Well now that the whight base coat is on those areas are now standing back out. I may try to test sand one spot and recoat. See if that helps.
I have been working on this thing in such a herky jerky fashion the last 2 or three months. Determined to get our lives back to some simbelance of order and routine.
I am going to spray the bulk of the plane red. As bright a red as rustolium has.
Below are the pics of the undercoated plane, and the last one is something like the paint scheame I will use. I will start working out the exact patterns a little later. Got my red paint though. May need more.
Yeah I thoughtthe undercoat made a heck of defference. I just got to the point that I could not stand looking it the ugly nitrate base any more.
So in my absence from this project and haste to put something on it I forgot to pin my hinges with tooth picks. Sprayed all the white and had a " DUH YOU STUPID JERCK YOU FORGOT SOMETHING DIDN'T YOU" That is pretty muchquotingmy comment to my own self.
So I mulled it over for a while. I sure i did a good job of epoxying the hinge halves in originally. I worked plenty of epoxy into the slots and then I made sure I got the hinges well coated. BUT!!! I just did not feel comfortable.
Bpought a new drill bit, put a stop collar on it, and drill the bottom sides, all the way thru the hinges but short of punching thru the top skin.
I did however start trimming the hinges pins, some were slightly high other flush or below flush. Also hit them with some fine sand paper.
Also since I had the sand paper in my mits, I started to hit some places on the fuse that looked bad (some rough sand paper like spots). My camera is not capable of getting a pic of those. But anyway I well try to sand out as many imperfections as I safly can (without cutting thru the fabric). I will then need to give it one more coat of white. Then I can start setting up my mask for the red.
And I failed to copy the text before hitting post
MAN OH MAN I AM TORQUED
try again
OK everybit of the plane is a nice bright shinny white at the moment.
I fixed the oversight of having my hing halves pinned with tooth picks. And then I sanded and filled the surgery marks. And repainted those areas.
I feel much more confident of the hinges not decideing to up and jump off the plane and parachut down.
I will confess I have only had one hinge failure. And it was due to high speed flutter. I managed to chop throttle and pull vertical, then make a sloppy landing with one airleron flapping around held by nothing more than one hinge and the control linkage.
Next I will start making my mask for the rest of the colors, red with some black pin stripes.
I then need to reinstall the controls and linkages.
There are some details to still attend to besides that.
Now to start laying out the mask patterns.
Here are some pics.
I am doing the masking now.
I really find this part to be frustrating. Trying to measure and mark with out leaving marks. Trying to get everything even andsymmetrical. YIKES<o></o>
The unmasked area will be a bright in you face RED. The boldest that Rustolium has. This white is also their boldest. There will be black pinstripingadded to outline all the white. The bottom of the wing will have a red stripe in frontspan wise, and thenparallelblack and white stripes chord wise (front to back). During WW2 on the D Day invasion Allied aircraft usedparallelblack and white stripes chord wise to make them more visible toailedground troops and reducefriendlyfire. This will make it a lot easier for my to see and maintainorientationwith. Kind of important that part. Helps not turn the plane into a pile of kindling.<o></o>
The wing pattern will repeat on both the horizontal and vertical tail surfaces.<o></o>
The upper half of the fuse will be red and the lower white with 2 pin strips on the upper part of the white.<o></o>
I am using auto masking tape for all my masking. Man the glue on it STINKS to high heaven. UGH. The stars are laid out on the tape and then cut out. ONE BIG PAIN IN THE BUTT. The strips are built up of widths of tape.
I am finfing it easier on the other wing panel to position and orient the stars then use those to locate the start of the strips. The end of the strips I can find from other reference points.<o></o>
Hope to spray tomorrow.<o></o>
I have to credit my wife for her assistance and guidance doing this part. Her skills as a seamstrist helped get every thing correctly alighned and placed.
So I worked on the masking some more.
.
OH CRAP MY BLOODY MASK ARE WRONG. CRAP, CRAP AND LOTS CRAP.
While I was writing this up I realized I did have the mask on the bottom reversed. The areas that are masked are not supposed to be.
I want the a span wise stripe at the very front of the wing (the red just wraps around from the top). And I want black strips chord wise, but where the tape is. The tops of the airleron servos are exposed and are black, so it just makes sense for those to be part of a black strip. Oh well it is an easy fix.
I had planned on spraying yesterday, but it rained most of the day and took a lot longer to finnish the masking than I thaought it would.
To day is a ral nice day so I sprayed the red on the wing.
This is my spray booth.
Time out errors again on this site
Pic upload later.
I really wanted to pull the tape off at this point but it is way to soft. needs at least till tomorrow.
I have been working on masking the tail feathers. Port side horizontal and vertical are clompetly masked, It is a very tedious and time consumming jop to transfer the pattern to starboard.
And the weather has been wet to say the least.
But today I got a chance to spray the bottom of the wing after I got up after working last night.
So here is the wing bottom.
I have a slight ridge line from the masking.And I do not like it. I have been thinking of using some very fine sandpaper like maybe 1000 wrapped around a wedge of balsa or an eraser and trying to remove it. But I also do not want end up embeding tiney bits of red in the white.
How do you guys deal with this?
It will have to be touched up a little. Had more bleed at the tape edges than I have had before. Maybe I shot to heavely.
Now I have to mask again. The bottom of the stab is going to be the same pattern as the wing. Still deciding if I want to paint a windscreen and windows. I think it would make the plane look more finnished. A light blue maybe.
What looks like a paint chip out of the cowl is an artifact of the camera flash. I saw it after I posted and had to actually go look.
You are doing a great job on the plane, keep up the good work.
I will have to paint windscreen and windows. it just will not be complete with out.
Once you have the area with-in your lines dull looking from the abrassion, then mask the outside edge of your lines with regular masking tape. Use a credit card and press down the edge facing what you are going to paint, then mask or cover the rest of the plane so you don't get overspray on the airplane. Give it about 4 light coats of black or blue, 9 what ever color windows you decide) and let the paint set. Once the paint has set (dry to the touch) remove the masking tape. Presto, you should have perfect windows. If it's done right, you won't have any run off with the paint if you used good masking tape. The credit card trick keeps the edge of the masking tape tight.
Rustolium Enamel Paints are glow fuel resistant, so you are good. Make sure you let your paint fully dry for about 2 weeks before you run the engine. It gives it the right amount of time to fully cure depending how dry your environment is. Now if you do have a little run off for what ever reason, you can use 3/16" trim tape or automotive pin stripe and go over your lines with it.
Hope I helped, I look forward to your maiden!
Pete
You are doing a great job on the plane, keep up the good work.
I will have to paint windscreen and windows. it just will not be complete with out.
Once you have the area with-in your lines dull looking from the abrassion, then mask the outside edge of your lines with regular masking tape. Use a credit card and press down the edge facing what you are going to paint, then mask or cover the rest of the plane so you don't get overspray on the airplane. Give it about 4 light coats of black or blue, 9 what ever color windows you decide) and let the paint set. Once the paint has set (dry to the touch) remove the masking tape. Presto, you should have perfect windows. If it's done right, you won't have any run off with the paint if you used good masking tape. The credit card trick keeps the edge of the masking tape tight.
Rustolium Enamel Paints are glow fuel resistant, so you are good. Make sure you let your paint fully dry for about 2 weeks before you run the engine. It gives it the right amount of time to fully cure depending how dry your environment is. Now if you do have a little run off for what ever reason, you can use 3/16" trim tape or automotive pin stripe and go over your lines with it.
Hope I helped, I look forward to your maiden!
Pete
That is a big help. I did not know about pressing the tape edges with a credit card. I had just used my finger. And since I thought I was using a quality tape (automotive masking tape @ 5$ a roll) I was wondering what the hck and more than a little annyoid with the tail feathers. I did figure the black oin stripeing (still to be added) would cover my proplems.
And all the paints on it are Rustolium Enamel Paints. I still have some other things to finnish or correct, so by the time I fire up the motor, the paint will have had more than 2 weeks to cure. Got to get a few more things. Had to wipe out my rat hole money today on shoes to work in. So I will have to wait to get the finnishing items. But there is no lack of work to do on it till then, so that wont alter finnish time.
When I find myself at points were I can't work on (wet paint ect.) I have other projects I am dabbling with. I have cut out parts for an electric foamy (if my own design) and I am starting the very early work a 2 control line planes. I will commit herresy with those and stick a surface radio in 'em for throttle and maybe smoke. Way to early in those projects to start a build thread (nothing more than cutting parts).
Only had a few minutes to work on it today. Was able to finnish the mask pattern for the stap bottom. Started that last night. And had to do it several times. First I had the pattern backwards. And just could not seem to get the spaceing correct. But once I got one side the other was super easy. Mask off the rest of the palne so I can spray the stap bottom.
Thanks again Oberst