RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair
I think that you can repair that OK, but it's going to take a lot of work - consider it to be a chance to have fun. The first thing I would recommend is to ensure that the wood is dry and oil free where you want to glue or attach covering. If you can't do that, consider getting a kit. It's frustrating not to have a secure glue joint or have the covering falling off. Don't let anyone tell you that it's OK to attach to oil-soaked wood. It's not, and it won't be safe.
Also, it would be good to remember to keep everything light - if you've been a woodworker, you've never had to worry about weight before - now you do. For example, repairing the nose cheeks. I'd use a lite ply doubler to splice in the new cheek because it only has to take the windblast from the front of the prop. By keeping it light, you won't affect the fore/aft CG too much. One piece of heavy wood won't hurt, but if you overbuild everything, the weight adds up.
Ensure that the firewall is very secure - that'd be the first order of business. If you can't secure that, it might not be worth the hassle. The doublers in the wing saddle area can be a little on the heavy side because they're close to the CG and won't affect it too much, and you want that strength for the wing mounting.
As for the engine, I would not trust putting anything together with JB Weld on an engine, except perhaps for a carb. But for mounting lugs, I'd get a new crankcase if they're still around. Or just pop for something like a OS-40LA - same vintage and power.
I'm sure that others will have other suggestions or poo-poo mine. THe important thing is that you don't want to do anything that will even hint at weakening the structural integrity and risk an out of control airplane flying into the pits.
Just my $.02.
I'm durious about how all those holes got gouged into the side of the fuse? On second thought, would you prefer to