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  1. #1

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    Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    I did not crash it. But being I'm new to planes, never flown anything other than electric & nitro helis. (Basics No 3D) But can fly helis up right pretty good Thought I'd rebuild this trainer and a couple more someone give me. Just to learn how to repair. I've built many things from wood over the years, so wood working is in my blood.
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    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
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  2. #2

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    I think that you can repair that OK, but it's going to take a lot of work - consider it to be a chance to have fun. The first thing I would recommend is to ensure that the wood is dry and oil free where you want to glue or attach covering. If you can't do that, consider getting a kit. It's frustrating not to have a secure glue joint or have the covering falling off. Don't let anyone tell you that it's OK to attach to oil-soaked wood. It's not, and it won't be safe.

    Also, it would be good to remember to keep everything light - if you've been a woodworker, you've never had to worry about weight before - now you do. For example, repairing the nose cheeks. I'd use a lite ply doubler to splice in the new cheek because it only has to take the windblast from the front of the prop. By keeping it light, you won't affect the fore/aft CG too much. One piece of heavy wood won't hurt, but if you overbuild everything, the weight adds up.

    Ensure that the firewall is very secure - that'd be the first order of business. If you can't secure that, it might not be worth the hassle. The doublers in the wing saddle area can be a little on the heavy side because they're close to the CG and won't affect it too much, and you want that strength for the wing mounting.

    As for the engine, I would not trust putting anything together with JB Weld on an engine, except perhaps for a carb. But for mounting lugs, I'd get a new crankcase if they're still around. Or just pop for something like a OS-40LA - same vintage and power.

    I'm sure that others will have other suggestions or poo-poo mine. THe important thing is that you don't want to do anything that will even hint at weakening the structural integrity and risk an out of control airplane flying into the pits.

    Just my $.02.

    I'm durious about how all those holes got gouged into the side of the fuse? On second thought, would you prefer to

    Bob
    Club Saito #61 Cub Brotherhood #107
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  3. #3

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    +
    ORIGINAL: N1EDM

    I think that you can repair that OK, but it's going to take a lot of work - consider it to be a chance to have fun. The first thing I would recommend is to ensure that the wood is dry and oil free where you want to glue or attach covering. If you can't do that, consider getting a kit. It's frustrating not to have a secure glue joint or have the covering falling off. Don't let anyone tell you that it's OK to attach to oil-soaked wood. It's not, and it won't be safe.

    Also, it would be good to remember to keep everything light - if you've been a woodworker, you've never had to worry about weight before - now you do. For example, repairing the nose cheeks. I'd use a lite ply doubler to splice in the new cheek because it only has to take the windblast from the front of the prop. By keeping it light, you won't affect the fore/aft CG too much. One piece of heavy wood won't hurt, but if you overbuild everything, the weight adds up.

    Ensure that the firewall is very secure - that'd be the first order of business. If you can't secure that, it might not be worth the hassle. The doublers in the wing saddle area can be a little on the heavy side because they're close to the CG and won't affect it too much, and you want that strength for the wing mounting.

    As for the engine, I would not trust putting anything together with JB Weld on an engine, except perhaps for a carb. But for mounting lugs, I'd get a new crankcase if they're still around. Or just pop for something like a OS-40LA - same vintage and power.

    I'm sure that others will have other suggestions or poo-poo mine. THe important thing is that you don't want to do anything that will even hint at weakening the structural integrity and risk an out of control airplane flying into the pits.

    Just my $.02.

    I'm durious about how all those holes got gouged into the side of the fuse? On second thought, would you prefer to

    Bob
    +1 to that. And use K2R to remove the old fuel residue and then use Balsarite on the clean wood to prepare for the new covering. If you buy a new engine, get a .46. If you want the plans to the original RCM/Bridi Trainer 40, I have those. JMTCW. Good luck.

  4. #4

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Tons of oil on that beast........toss it, and learn to fly that purty one on the wall!!!
    RC MANIAC-PRO BRO 1900-AMA# 95841

  5. #5

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Thanks N1EDM all that was great. The tail and Main wing are in pretty good shape, and it's good to pratice repairs on. Might be a waste of time, and a few bucks, but what the hey.


    Yep right side and bottom has a bunch of oil in the wood. That wood is almost gone now. I been whittling away at it, and my finger and hand. Sharp Knife. lol I know glue, or coating wont stick to soggy wood. So I'm working on removing the wood on the right side and bottom. And letting it all air dry good. No Rush.

    1.Be sure it's dry.
    2.Keep it light.
    3.Make it safe.

    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
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  6. #6

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    I'm going to let the fuselage set a while and air dry some. And work on the wing a tad. Heres a close up of the right wing under the coating. The left side appears to have no damage. But have not removedthe coating yet. But I could feel this damage easy.
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    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1180

  7. #7

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Here is PDF file of Bridi RCM Trainer
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #8

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Thanksspaceworm Not the same plane but thanks anyway.
    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1180

  9. #9
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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    For oil soaked wood buy a bag of Oil Dry or equivalent and bury the fuse in the oil dry. Let is set in the corner for a week or two. This will draw the vast majority of the oil out of the wood. Finish up with a solvent like acetone to remove the last bit.

    Good luck on your venture.

    Ken
    Sent from my Dry-Erase-Board

  10. #10

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    I got oil out of an aircraft nose once... I used the kitty litter trick (instead of the oil dry - but they're probably the same). One additioinal thing that I did was to heat the oily areas with a heat gun. The deep-set oil would rise to the surface and I was able to blot it up with a paper towel.

    As for your earlier question about covering, if you're going to TH, then stick with good ol' Monokote. If you happen to see some UltraCote from your LHS instead, then that's good stuff to use too. You'd be happy with either one but I don't know if one would stick to the other if you tried to use a different brand for trim.

    Also, be a little picky about your covering scheme. Look around here at RCU and at other places on the web. Just make sure that the top and bottom of the wing are different, for flight orientation. Some guys will make a horizontal design on one side of the wing (i.e., wingtip to wingtip) and a fore-and-aft design on the other side. Whatever it is, just make them large enough to see from a distance, and make them different. Maybe some guys here have some suggestions they can upload photos of.

    Just my $.02

    Bob
    Club Saito #61 Cub Brotherhood #107
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  11. #11

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Here is a great article on wing repair.
    http://masportaviator.com/2005/10/06/arf-wing-repair/
    Chris Murphy

  12. #12

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair



    Thanks N1EDM I had that in mind, but did not have any real plan, other than make it different, so I could tell which way the plane is heading.

    And Thank you overboard77, that is a great wing repair thread. Just what I was looking for.

    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
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  13. #13
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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Just a note about that Trainer 40, it's a great flying plane. Stable enough for training, but agile enough for a lot of good aerobatics.

    So I say it's definitely worth the effort to rebuild, and will reward you with surprisingly good flight characteristics.

    Best wishes,
    Dave Olson
    The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him GKChesterton

  14. #14

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair


    ORIGINAL: Scar

    Just a note about that Trainer 40, it's a great flying plane. Stable enough for training, but agile enough for a lot of good aerobatics.

    So I say it's definitely worth the effort to rebuild, and will reward you with surprisingly good flight characteristics.

    Best wishes,
    Dave Olson

    The guy that gave it to me took alll the Dihedral out of the wing, it's flat as a sheet of marble.
    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
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  15. #15

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Right now I'm working on (2) repair planes, at the same time. Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer and a Somthing Extra. Wish I could get me a nice used 56 4-stroke for the extra.
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  16. #16

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    I'm still working on the fuselage. After I get the fuse done, I'll start on the wing.


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    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
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  17. #17

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    RE: Lanier Explorer 40 Trainer Repair

    Well I have added a few more patchs. It's going to be a long road. But great for learning.

    Edited: Got a little more done. Still have the left front nose/air-brake what ever it's called to go.

    I want to put a Brushless Motor in this when it's finished. 46 size & 75A ESC What KV range should be best? My guess somewhere between between 650-800KV.
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    For anyone doing hinges on ARFs. Please Read This.
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1180


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