Calling all HAN1500 Cub Owners
The main issue on this model was the slots in the fuselage. There isn't enough clearance for the control rods. Barely any up elevator, tons of down and it would actually stick the rudder to the right. I have a new wing kit for it and there is nothing inside the plane.
Hanger 9 makes a 4000 series now. More scale looking parts,better wings, a reinforced fuselage where the wings attach and a semi scale interior. The HAN 1500 I have has no interiror... at all.
I hope this helps.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...500-manual.pdf
The rudder and elevator both have robart hinges in them and I was concerned about causing more damage trying to cut them (the gap is a little big for me). I thought I would try and used a 21st century trim and seam iron to get the covering into the cracks (it has a really flat tip). I figured if that wouldnt work then I would go to plan "B" and cut the surfaces off.
I finnsished the covering today. The elevator and rudder came out ok. still a bit fa a gap but nothing that is going to be noticed on a cub. I cut the lighting bolt from trim tape and bought the cub stickers (from Hanger 9's current model).
Now it is onto rigging the flight controls and then fabicating windows.
I am wondering about the wing loading and if will I have to fly at like 25Mph to stay in the air.
http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Def...ProdID=HAN1500
Product Specifications
Wingspan: | 80 in |
Overall Length: | 50 in |
Wing Area: | 850 sq in |
Flying Weight: | 6.5 - 7 lbs |
Engine Size: | .40 - .48 (2-stroke), .45 - .60 (4-stroke) |
Radio: | 4 channel |
Servos: | 4 |
With the wire I can get a full range of travil from Elivator and rudder with no binding.
I installed the motor mount (big PITA) and installed the new motor. Now I hasve to redo the Cowl. I think im going to order one fromwww.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.comhopfully they have one that fits better
It was raining heavy from a tropical storm last night. I decided to make a dashboard and console instead
Things I have learned. The backplate sensoir needs modification to be able to fit and detect the crank pin. you have to make sure the temp sensor maintains direct contact with the head the best spot is positioned on the back of the head just at about the top piston to detect the cylinder tempature (learned that with helicopters.). The temapature sensor cable tends to lossen up over time. If you have it on the exausust you get much higher temps if you have it low on the head you get crank case temps. .
My kids also talked me into adding navigation lights. II purchased the RC-Lighnts kit (I could have built my own but that takes time and would not be as clean). will have to think the layout out a bit but I should be able to get a fairly scale look.
I was at the local hobby shop getting a few parts. My kids thought I should add lights to the cub.I know they have little valuesince they really can’t be seen flying (unless it is dusk) but they have been my biggest fans so I decided to do it. It turns out it has been a lot of fun planning and installing them. Since cubs typically didn’t have them, I had to figure out how to do it to make it more scale like. I did find some pictures of full scale cubs with them (and a aftermarket company that sells them). I will be modeling mine after them.
I bought the RC-lights premade kit. I have the skills to make up my own kit but honestly the time this saves is well worth the difference in cost. The only piece of the kit I didn’t use was their wire. Their lead were only 14" and I have a spool of 26 gauge stranded wire. I started with the white position light and read anti-collision beacon on the rudder (it’s just a blinking LED - LOL). <o></o>
There is not much left on the fuselage. I have the cowl coming g in from fiberglass specialty today and I started to make new side windows. <o></o>
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Once that is done I’ll start the wing (I haven’t torn off the old covering yet)<o></o>
I am wondering if I need to make a mount to secure it to the firewall.
My plane weighs in at a AUW of 8.22lbs and I know you said yours was heavy also. I have no idea how they came up with the figure they supplied.
I haven't explored the slow flight characteristics until I am dang sure the motor will not stall. So far the .62 has been 100% reliable at idle, both in ground test and the 2 flights.
I read somewhere about the exhaust constantly loosening and mine did too during bench running and the solution was to tighten the nuts when the engine is HOT. I have not had mine come loose since.
Have a handful of flights on it now and changed the wheels to Dubro 4.5" inflatables, the originals were starting to crack and separate.
Anyway I finnished the restoration and flew he about 5 times last week.
I added supprts to the wing for struts. I also installed flush mounted servo hatches.
A big change is I finnished the model and it weighed in at 9.25 lbs with all the balast I needed on the nose. I decidecd to make a new elevator joined with a wire instead of a split one uisng a split pushrod. I also lightned the fueslage by cutting out some balsa on the bottom of the fuselage. This change allowed me to dump 6 oz at the nose for a total of 12oz.
I have all the lights working as well. I can remotly operate the navigation and landing lights from one switch on the TX (actually two channels mixed on one switch)