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Old 09-30-2013, 08:37 PM
  #226  
izzy-israel-73
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reaching for a flathead screw driver
Old 09-30-2013, 10:38 PM
  #227  
ss40
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One thing I do, not foolproof, but an extra is that all switches on the tx are in the rear position when I plug in a battery or go to a glow model. One switch in that position takes the throttle curve to zero in all throttle positions. The intent is only when restrained or ready to fly does that switch move forward, giving control to the throttle.

Too bad it happened but thank you very much for letting us know. I will be more cautious at least for awhile.
Old 10-01-2013, 06:42 AM
  #228  
FlyerInOKC
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ouch!!!!
Old 10-06-2013, 07:43 PM
  #229  
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Just to show you all that rc people aren't the only ones that can destroy flesh and bone.

The story goes that that this guy tried to take the nut out of a deep wall socket with his finger while it was still attached to the impact tool.

Notice the especially painfull threads across the first joint and up the second bone of the finger.

Since I'm only 30 yr engineer and not a doctor I'd love to see the tool used to remove this "nut".

What is the best guess?? Dremel tool? 4 1/2 in grinder and cut off wheel? How about a 'nut breaker'? They might have had to get a dentist with his assortment of drills and grinders. haha

Last edited by bentwings; 10-06-2013 at 07:52 PM.
Old 10-06-2013, 11:41 PM
  #230  
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At that point, might as well just put the impact gun in reverse.

Ouch, and I'll have to remember that.
Old 12-14-2013, 07:21 AM
  #231  
izzy-israel-73
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ctnic I know what ya going threw
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:22 AM
  #232  
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ouch!!!!
Old 01-25-2014, 12:11 PM
  #233  
StAndBl
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I've almost been prop bitten. I had a friend setting up my first plane, we hooked up the battery and the plane jumped forward after the receiver connected. Turns out the throttle channel was reversed in the radio. We got lucky and all it did was rip the plastic cover off the antenna on the radio. He was quick to move the stick, but had I done this myself, i'm wiling to bet there would've been more damage. Now anytime I work on it the prop comes off.
Old 01-31-2014, 12:29 PM
  #234  
SushiHunter
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Much of this carnage also depends on the type of materials that the props are made from. This is why metal props are pretty much banned in most/if not all clubs. Carbon blades are pretty much just as strong. Next are those glass props and then the wooden ones. Wood tends to break before it does too much damage (smaller scale prop sizes anyways).
Old 01-31-2014, 01:00 PM
  #235  
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People who don't think electrics are dangerous obviously never had one. In my opinion, more dangerous than IC airplanes. Almost learned the hard way more than once.
Old 01-31-2014, 01:46 PM
  #236  
SushiHunter
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
People who don't think electrics are dangerous obviously never had one. In my opinion, more dangerous than IC airplanes. Almost learned the hard way more than once.
Is this because it takes less effort to start an electric plane, thus not being as aware that the prop is or could be spinning compared to running a non-electric engine?

I've had a finger or two come in contact with props on my planes before, not often but has happened before. Sure it hurt but nothing like what the images on this thread show happened to others. This is so in part because I've never got my hands in the prop of an engine larger than .65 and always ran wooden props along with never getting it in a prop that was moving at FOT.

I read somewhere that the below damage was caused by a metal prop:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzXyYX7hZvw

Last edited by SushiHunter; 01-31-2014 at 02:38 PM.
Old 02-04-2014, 06:07 AM
  #237  
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Steve is right! Electrics can start just by energizing the the power system with the radio on. An electric motor can go to full power in an instant. I have several small electrics I have built and love the heck out of them but I try to use extreme caution when hooking the battery up and turning on the radio. A lot of guys are installing arming plugs and a rubber band on the throttle stick on the transmitter. It's just good safety. I have been fortunate my only propeller strikes have been from .020 and .049 engines and 40 years later I STILL have the scars. I shudder to think what a larger prop would have done.
Old 02-04-2014, 08:10 AM
  #238  
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That's the thing with electrics. Ya plug it in, carry it over to the line, your checking something when you bump the throttle stick by accident, and WHAMO! Happens that quick. You never see it coming and you always said " how can someone let that happen to themselves?" Then it's you. And trust me, these electrics don't stop when you catch a finger in it, they just keep chewing and chewing until you stop feeding them. My accident was with a K&B 61 with a glass prop. Could have been much worse, but still missed half a month of work and spent 5 months in PT.BE CAREFUL BECAUSE IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU TOO!!!
Old 02-04-2014, 09:51 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
that's the thing with electrics. Ya plug it in, carry it over to the line, your checking something when you bump the throttle stick by accident, and whamo! Happens that quick. You never see it coming and you always said " how can someone let that happen to themselves?" then it's you. And trust me, these electrics don't stop when you catch a finger in it, they just keep chewing and chewing until you stop feeding them. My accident was with a k&b 61 with a glass prop. Could have been much worse, but still missed half a month of work and spent 5 months in pt.be careful because it can happen to you too!!!
amen!
Old 02-04-2014, 11:14 AM
  #240  
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Another problems with electrics, is when setting up or switching between models. You may think you are at low throttle when it is actually full throttle, as the direction is reversed. You may even be using an arming plug and when you complete the circuit, off it goes.
Also, I think that since most electrics are lightweight they can lurch so quickly. It can be on a table one second, and in your face the next.
Old 02-04-2014, 11:35 AM
  #241  
SushiHunter
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Originally Posted by Flight Risk
Another problems with electrics, is when setting up or switching between models. You may think you are at low throttle when it is actually full throttle, as the direction is reversed. You may even be using an arming plug and when you complete the circuit, off it goes.
Also, I think that since most electrics are lightweight they can lurch so quickly. It can be on a table one second, and in your face the next.
Pay attention to detail. Doing so will prevent most, if not all of these issues. Also your club should have protocol on where electrics can and cannot be energized. Simply on a table is not allowed in most club airfields. They can only be energized in the pit where glow engines are only allowed to be started and ran, with proper restraints being utilized, just like the glow and plug planes. Even though they are electric, most, if not all clubs consider an energized plane the same as a running glow or plug plane and needs to be handled accordingly.

Last edited by SushiHunter; 02-04-2014 at 11:56 AM.
Old 02-04-2014, 11:38 AM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
That's the thing with electrics. Ya plug it in, carry it over to the line, your checking something when you bump the throttle stick by accident, and WHAMO! Happens that quick. You never see it coming and you always said " how can someone let that happen to themselves?" Then it's you. And trust me, these electrics don't stop when you catch a finger in it, they just keep chewing and chewing until you stop feeding them. My accident was with a K&B 61 with a glass prop. Could have been much worse, but still missed half a month of work and spent 5 months in PT.BE CAREFUL BECAUSE IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU TOO!!!
The club should have a protocol in place that prevents most of this if followed correctly. In regards to electric, can only be plugged in at the designated area and once it's plugged in it is regarded as "running" and should be handled accordingly.
Old 02-04-2014, 12:05 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by SushiHunter
Pay attention to detail. Doing so will prevent most, if not all of these issues. Also your club should have protocol on where electrics can and cannot be energized. Simply on a table is not allowed in most club airfields. They can only be energized in the pit where glow engines are only allowed to be started and ran, with proper restraints being utilized, just like the glow and plug planes. Even though they are electric, most, if not all clubs consider an energized plane the same as a running glow or plug plane and needs to be handled accordingly.
I couldn't agree more. But, I'm sure it's the same at most fields, there's always that one guy who probably shouldn't be flying anymore, either old age, or inexperience, or both.seen it happen, and seen guys told there no longer welcome, to much risk.kinda sad when they been flying that field for 50+ years.
Old 02-04-2014, 12:12 PM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
I couldn't agree more. But, I'm sure it's the same at most fields, there's always that one guy who probably shouldn't be flying anymore, either old age, or inexperience, or both.seen it happen, and seen guys told there no longer welcome, to much risk.kinda sad when they been flying that field for 50+ years.
That's true. At our field, and this is probably the case at all fields, the main priority is "Safety Safety Safety!" first and foremost above all else. If the environment becomes unsafe, it's got to be corrected regardless of how long someone has been there and/or flying, which is also true with the operation of full sized aircraft, vehicles, equipment, etc. I'd be pissed off if someone who's got years of experience crashed say a scale prop ac into someone and/or into me because they were at the point where they were no longer safe flying because of age, physical/mental ability, etc. or lack of experience operating such equipment.

Last edited by SushiHunter; 02-04-2014 at 12:17 PM.
Old 02-04-2014, 01:38 PM
  #245  
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We had an old member who would forget and turn his 72 mhz radio on to check the battery when he unloaded it from his car. I was on the same frequency fortunately I was never flying when he showed up. He went to 2.4 so that helped since I still run both.
Old 02-04-2014, 03:18 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
We had an old member who would forget and turn his 72 mhz radio on to check the battery when he unloaded it from his car. I was on the same frequency fortunately I was never flying when he showed up. He went to 2.4 so that helped since I still run both.
Multiples of sadness, especially before 2.4 was available.
Old 02-04-2014, 03:20 PM
  #247  
Propworn
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Originally Posted by 8178
The best approach is to install the prop when you are at the flight line before the battery is connected and remove it at the flight line after the battery is disconnected. When the battery is connected assume that the motor could start at any time!
Pure baloney how long before you end up having to replace the prop adaptor most are only aluminum. You want me to take off the spinner and the prop and put it on each trip to and from the flight line? You obviously don't have a clue what you’re talking about or you've been in to close proximity for to long to your glue bottle. To many of you guys require some sort of nanny state to tell you when to wipe. Even safer is why not stay in your bedroom with the lights off so no one even knows your there. Obviously modeling is far to dangerous for some, the razor blades, assorted saws and power tools, sharp pins, glues, oh the horror the horror!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dennis
Old 02-04-2014, 03:43 PM
  #248  
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Wow, that's a first.never heard of anyone taking such drastic measures.
Old 02-04-2014, 08:17 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
Wow, that's a first.never heard of anyone taking such drastic measures.
I pull the prop to work on mine, but not in transit etc. I just don't feel like getting chewed up!
Old 02-05-2014, 04:25 AM
  #250  
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Yeah, I pull it too, to work on it. But not every time I land, and I'm going to grab another battery or something.


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