edberg

I was out breaking in the engine in my GP RV-4, while I was fueling up the entire stopper popped out when the tank was about half full leaking fuel everywhere. I instantly unplugged the receiver and pulled it out then flipped the plane inverted. I then put a large amount of talcum powder inside.

It's been sitting there for 2 days, hoping it will absorb the fuel. Did I do this right? How much longer should I wait before I vacuum it out?

RC MANIAC119

My Feedback: (14)

Go get some kitty litter.....fill up the fuse, and let it sit for a couple more days!! It is messy, but it does suck the oil from the balsa.

Works Great!!

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

And after you get all the oil out, fuel proof the compartment where the fuel tank resides. Use thinned epoxy, and pour it right in there. Swish it around good.

Brad

Deadeye

My second plane, the SIG Four Star 60 did this to me after about 30 flights. The stopper had actually shrunk, and was hard as a rock. The resulting spill split my fuelage like a flower blooming. That spill, along with my newbieness (5 years ago) and inexperience at such a mess and repair (used K2R, and epoxied the fuselage back together), resulted in the firewall pulling loose on the second flight after the repair. When the firewall pulled loose, the new Saito 100 went to full throttle and the plane spiraled into the ground at full throttle and 70 or 80 MPH. Airframe, destroyed. Saito, damaged. Radio gear, some damage. I had first contacted SIG when the initial spill happened. I sent the old stopper to them, and they sent me a new tank. After the crash, I contacted them again in hopes of a free or discounted new plane, and they would to nothing.

I posted the series of events right here on RCU, and it got alot of hits. SIG eventually signed up to RCU to respond to the thread. They ended up sending me a replacement ARF for free.

Now I'm not saying the same thing happened to you, but do check the stopper to make sure the stopper is still plyable and able to make a seal. The tank SIG used in the ARFS then were made by World Models. If your stopper is factory defective, GP might be willing to do something to help.

k3 valley flyer

My Feedback: (18)

I replace all my fuel tanks with Hayes tanks. Never had one leak.

Villa

I also replaced ALL of my fuel tanks with Hayes. It uses an O-ring for sealing. Best I have ever seen. R/C flying since 1972.

edberg

God the world model tanks are horrible! I lost a Cap232 to a fuel leak, but last time it happened without me knowing and it ended up destroying the landng gear mounts. I replaced my second arf from them with a sullivan tank.

As for the RV-4, some of the powder is dried on there and wont come off, seems dry though. Should I just leave it there?

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

Leave the powder there. it'll be fine. If this plane is an arf. Use either a Du-bro or a sullivan stopper. I prefer the sullivan it comes with both plastic pieces brass tubes and a nice stopper. For about $3.50 that way you can still use the arf fuel tank. And make sure you check the tank for leaks no matter what you do. before you install it in the plane.

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

how do you bend the plastic used in the sullivan stopper thanks frank

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

A little bit of heat. But i always just use the brass tubes that come with the Sullivan aftermarket stopper assembly

Sullivan part# S482
Tower part# LXFU80

These are already supplied with the brass tubes. Your local hobby shop should have them. The ARF fuel tanks use a stopper assembly in my opinion that is to hard to be pliable which is why i use the sullivan or Dubro.

acarter

As bodary said a little heat. I normally put a match or lighter under it for a few seconds and it will be super soft and bend how you like it. Then just hold it in that position untill it cools off.

Austin

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

thanks too all, brass is hard to bend and hard to cut then it cuts the fuel lines smometimes must be doing something wrong thanks again frank

aerowoof

to cut brass tubing just take an old exacto blade and roll the tubing while pressing down with the knife a few rolls back and forth will cut it like a pipe cutter,sandpaper or a file will smooth the burs.

tony0707

hi use a tube bending tool for brass lines you get at a hobby shop-prevents kinks- -hayes fuel tanks are the best -replace the kit tank-- leaking glo tanks (air in fuel system ) will cause excessive heat build up-and cook your aluminum glo engine-warping the aluminum. alway be watching for excessive heat -or air leaks-in fuel lines and tanks-will do a glo engine in--you can touch or tap the engine head-to check the temp-but be careful-will burn your hand. i do a pre flight run up-with a tack-if rpms look -as they should-all is well-any time your engine head seams hot-look for an air leak or engine is too lean- can check head temp -with your hand on the runway after a flight - tip---when taking a glo plane out-that has been sitting for sometime (common if you have a lot of planes )--note the location of the needle valve-by gently turning it into it' seat----counting the number of turns (so you can get back to the same setting you had )-then remove them and clean them-they often have fuel residue on them- also vacuum check --the fuel tank for leaks-prior to going to the field-will make for better days at the field- fuel tanks-cause too many difficulties-when they are not doing there job-keep them working correctly-can save your plane and engines. try to build your planes-so you can alway get to the fuel tank-to service it -or replace it if necessary. if plane lasts long enough-you will be doing maintanence at some point to the tank ===tony===