racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

Well its that time guys, to ditch the fuji 43 and the gp ultimate colors and go with a piped dl 50 and some lighter weight covering and sweet new bad brad graphics. Give me some input on what you think needs to be beefed up and lightened to make this great plane a real great plane . My thoughts now are firewall for sure, a pipe tunnel for an es composites tuned pipe ( rear exit ), better landing gear, robart real hinges, and a good carbon fiber diet and so everyone knows this plane will be FOR SALE after this is all done so lets kick this thing off thanks jessie

RC MANIAC119

My Feedback: (14)

If you put it on a diet, put on some real huckin power and make it pretty....Why sell it?????

Fly it like you stole it!!!!

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

I really dont know why I just want to go bigger you know how that is I want to try and pick up a 1/3 scale gp cap 580

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

[8D]now we R talking

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

thats right I just need some good ideas and insparation to keep me going on this build my first weight was 14.1 pounds and I am hoping that I wont break 15.5 on this go round a dl will easily hover a 17 pound plane (seen it) and being as light as this build will be I am hoping for a for the fastest takeoff, upline,and ballistic pullout of them all help me out guys thanks jessie

Cyberfyn

Good choice!

I just upscaled the Goldberg plans to 1/3







Fitted a 3W 60cc engine with a Tindal Evolution smoke system.

Ian F.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

wow great lookin bipe hows that 60 going to be for power I thought 30+ % bipes were in the 80-100cc range what was your auw love that color scheme you just cant beat a mean lookin ultimate nice work ian

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

Cyb that is looking sweet. I am running a bme twin on my 30% BG Ultmate it's power to spare

Cyberfyn

The 3W is one of the CS (Competition Series) engines. It's been in a couple of big models of mine so is running in nicely now! Doesn't seem to lack power, It'll climb out of a prop hang and keep going!



I went with foam core wings, but could save some weight by making a set of built up ones. That's next on the list.

Ian F.

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

power is a good thing on the Ultimates

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

yes it is my last go round I was under powered and it took forever to get enough elevation to do anything and it sucked took two minutes to get up and 5 seconds to do a blender down I am hoping that a piped dl is going to be stupid powerful for this plane

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

hey fellas good news I just got my new dl 50 today and so far it looks great I can't wait to get this puppy mounted

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

First you should build that Topflight kit behind you on the shelve, looks like its either a P-51 kit or P47. Oh yeah, clean your room. just kidding, I make any shop look like a hurricane hit it! I have a friend who stuffed a ZDZ 80 under the hood of one of those, waaaay too much power, the carbonfiber gear squats like bent aluminum gear. I'd say firewall for sure, pin it with dowels for extra security and brace all tail feathers well.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

hey every guy needs two hobby shops in his house right and hey lookey there that is topflite p-47 already being built and the tail will get carbon fiber rods and gussets for extra support no more cheesy wires

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Yup, have the same one, except it's about 10 years old and being glassed for it's 3rd life in the skies. Mine's a rework of air, in the making. Sucks resheeting everything all over again.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

I guess we are breaking rules with this one it will be built as light as possible and not built to scale I hope to finish it this winter but there are 3 other planes waiting in line

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I hear ya, I have a Quickie all glassed out getting ready for paint, the P-47 waiting for a finishing, and a coverall and dope finish to do on my old Pica bucker Jungmiester bipe.
Here's a picture of the quickie ready for final sand and paint!

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

wow that is work of art man those are some neat looking planes is that a burt rutan design ? I just saw a full size one on flea bay for 12,000 I wanted to buy it so bad do you have any tips on covering my bipe I am kind of new to that I am what you call a buy and fly hinda guy just got into the building not to long ago it calms me down

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Well, for the GP 1.60, your on the right track, iron on film is the best light weight covering you can get. For durability, Sig coverall and dope, much more labor intesive but worth the effort, makes your airframe super tough, glassing is only recommended for fully sheeted models. The TF P-47 could and should be coated with .75 glass cloth and MAS or West System epoxy for durability, hangar rash sucks and is totally avoidable if you glass the structure. People say glassing adds too much weight, not so true, it may be a couple of ounces heavier, but it's lifespan it the life of the model, mono or ultracote has about a 7 to 9 year lifespan if taken care of, UV light beats the heck out of shrink wrap covering, sooner or later a simple doink on the skin will shatter the plastic on an open area. I choose a covering method that fits the aircraft, coverall for fabric, and glass for aluminum planes.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

thanks for the input it will help alot there are some very tuff spots on the wings that are giving me trouble no matter how I cut there is still a gap its driving me crazy thanks for the help jessie

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Gap? where? Any pic's.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

my cam wont take a good pic of it but its where the ailerons meet the widest part of the wing right in that corner it is like to triangles going away from each other pretty tricky spot any ideas

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I think I know what your talking about, I use a small strip of covering on all the 90 degree corners in the alerion areas, then I cover the bottom of the wing and then the top, the corner cuts made to iron down around the alerions overlap onto the small strip ironed down into the corners.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

see I tried that and still got the gap [:@] its very very small but it is still there if I mess it up one more time it will be fill the hole in with ca and a black sharpie cover up by the way the entire plane will be black with cut vinyl graphics from bad brad I think I want a bud light (ultimate) so it would be black red white blue and chrome I saw the top wing cut out and it almost covers the entire wing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rb-z9KVZUmo check that video out that is a sweet bud light plane mine will look similar

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

When putting the inner strip on, try to stretch it a little over the top and bottom by about 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch. Do the divide and conquor technique to get the film tight as a drum all the way around and firmly seal the edges. Do the other side on the bottom the same way and then the tops, poke air vent holes into the wing from the alerion mounting edge, tighten all the covering last and let the air escape through the vent holes. Tightening the covering last will keep it from warping and locking in a twist, generally, you have to stop starring at every little detail. It will drive you nuts if every little flaw the plane has is knit-picked. I'll see if I can show a few other picks of the other project planes being redone.