QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
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QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
Hello guys unfurtunely I bought a QQ 101 yak 54 and didnt know that Qui que was going out of business, right now I need a cowl for it and chiefaircraft doesnt have it and if I want a new cowl they are suggesting that I buy a new QQ 101 for 650$ plus shipping!!! so I am looking for somebody that has a spare cowl in the garage, any help will be geatly appreciated, I just dont want to buy the most expensive cowl in history 650$ plus shipping!!!! No way.
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RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
there is a company I've seen advertised in some of our mags that carry pants, cowls, and the like......I think it is fiberglass unlimited.....
Give that a try
Give that a try
#6
RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
I too was going to suggest if he has the old cowl it can be repaired and put back into service. Epo-Grip adhesives (www.epogrip.com) has a fiber reinforced material called Model Matrix that is ideal for fiberglass repair applications. Once the cowl is reinforced and repaired a mold can be made and the cowl can be reproduced.
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RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
Hello guysthanks for all the responses, I am trying to fix the cowl my self , so farI reinforced the back with fiber glass material and applied epoxy to it, sanded the outside of the cowl where the cracks are, applied filler to all the cracked areas I am letting it dry for the next layer of filler, tomorrow I am going to sand the filler dowm with 200 grit sand paper and I'm going to apply primer to it, I'm not looking for perfection I just want to have a decent looking cowl, this is going to be my first cowl fix so I hope it comes out ok. again thanks for all the suggestions.
Fernando
Fernando
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RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
How do you mold a cowl? is there a website that shows how to do it?? That is a great idea since right now there are a lot of pilots that heve Quique somenzini airplanes and no parts!! I really like the airplane it flies great, but with the parts situation it almost makes me feel like selling it and taking 50% hit on what I paid.
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RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
If you want to learn how to do it for the cheap, read up in composite section here on rcu, if you want a good manual on how to mold parts, pick up harry higgly's "master modeling " book, it covers all the aspects of it, The most exspensive part is buying good quality finishing resin, zap or NHP works well, but I use west or MAS epoxy resins for molds. Then the other componet is going to be PVA mold release agent, it's a liquid thet you can put into a airbrush and spray it on the part or you can brush it on as well. Use a prime coat of epoxy on the part first to help eliminate trapping air bubbles in the molds surface. Then scuff that and lay up heavy glass on the surface, adding wood to the mold will help stiffen the mold, your going to want to make it stiff to avoid distortion of the part being made. You can make the mold 1 piece but it makes getting the part out very difficult, so most people make it a 2 piece clamp together type, this is just a small amount of extra work, but makes pulling parts from the mold 10x easier and less chance of damaging the mold or the part. All you have to do is cut a piece of wodd, hardboard,lexan or anything that is solid to the outline of the molds seam you wish to seperate it at, Prep your part with the PVA release agent and put the outline piece where you want it on the part, fill the gap between the part and the outline with modeling clay and make it flush all the way around, spray the PVA on the lip you just created and resume the process of epoxy or polyester resin surface coat, followed by the glass cloth, when the 1/2 of the part is layed up, remove the outline board you just layed the glascloth up on, coat the back of that lip with the PVA and build up the other side as you did on the first. When everything is cured, drill 1/4" holes along the lip, these will be used for alignment of the two halfs, you can use pins, bolts or a combo of the two, I use bolts, it holds everything tight when doing a part. Now seperate the two halfs and wash away the PVA with warm soapy water and rebolt the halves together, it should, if you did a good job of wetting the surface out with resin and letting it cure, be a exact copy of the part and now you have a mold to layup many parts from. Just don't be stingy on the PVA, you want enough to ensure that it is going to create that protective film so the parts don't stick together.
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RE: QQ 101 Yak 54 cowl
ORIGINAL: pilot333
Hiflymodels.com who advertise on RCU in China can supply most QQ spares it seems.
Hiflymodels.com who advertise on RCU in China can supply most QQ spares it seems.
Joe