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Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

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Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Old 06-27-2007, 11:59 PM
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BB_DF
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Default Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

If you have one of the new controller boards with the separate Berg receiver, be aware of the potential for failure above 90-95 degrees ambient. If you are experiencing very wobbly flights on hot days, better send the board back for a new mod to avoid a crash.

Here's an easy test to see if you have a problem: When the ambient temp is above 95 degrees, turn the Tx on and turn the DF on. Set the throttle to about half power and observe the red LED. If it looks like it's blinking a Morse Code message rather than a very steady pattern, or is very slow in changing speed when you move the throttle, your controller is not operating correctly. If you don't see this pattern, there's probably not a problem.

I have to compliment Mike Dammar for addressing this problem quickly and engineering a very simple and clean fix.

- Bruce
Old 07-21-2007, 01:22 PM
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msarid
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Default RE: Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Hi bruce
My new board is with the berg receiver,,what shoud i do to solve the problem that you mentioned. another thing that i sow is the receiver looks like it not sit in his place and it can be loose during vibration.
maybey it a good idea to fix it with hot glue.
Please advice.

Have a nice weekend
Moti
Old 07-21-2007, 04:13 PM
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Default RE: Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Hi Moti,
First, test your board to see if it's acting up under high temp conditions of 90-95F+, by doing the LED test I described earlier. If it's not acting up, don't worry about trying to fix it.

On the Berg receiver - don't fly it with the receiver loose. I tried this and the Rx will always vibrate loose and unplug itself after a couple of minutes. Luckily the DF landed itself safely every time! Also the solder point of the delicate antenna wire connecting the Berg to the PC board will break from the flexing motion, and it's hard to access the arming button.

The clear silicone glue they use doesn't work at all (see pic). It's easy to peel off after it seperates. I used the solution recommended by Old Man Mike, which is 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. I coated the PC board and the Rx shrink wrap with a thin coat, and let it dry for a couple of minutes. I then applied a thicker layer and clamped the Rx against the board for 24 hrs. The Rx is under a great deal of spring tension applied by the angle of the connector pins, so it takes a strong adhesive to hold it. Make sure you first have a good solder connection on the small antenna wire connected to the board, because you can't access it after you glue the Rx to the board. The 3M black adhesive is quite messy, but it really does the job.

Ciao,
Bruce
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:26 AM
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Default RE: Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Hello Bruce.

THIS is just ONE example why I check this forum DAILY, between primarily yourself, Mike and SkyHigh you keep everyone well informed on relevant issues.[:-]
If I were to take a picture of my DF at this moment it would be almost an EXACT copy of the picture that you just posted above. Actually I probably would not have recognized it as a "problem" because mine is still so "new" and has not been crashed. But my receiver is not in contact with the board either, with the exception of the pins.

I am on my way to the store to get some adhesive. THANKS again!

Ed[8D]
Old 07-22-2007, 01:22 PM
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Default RE: Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Hi all
I use UHU Por contact to glue the receiver and after one huor flight it looks good.

Regards
Moti
Old 07-25-2007, 06:30 PM
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Default RE: Controller Heat Related Problem - Part Deux

Just a follow-up on securing the Berg receiver. I've worked with 5 or 6 of these new boards now, and there seems to be some variation in the way the Rx sits on the board. In picture #1 the Berg Rx rested about 1/8" parallel to the PC board, so all it needed was a cushion of silicone to hold it there and keep it from vibrating its way out of the connector. The key thing is that on this board there was no pressure needed to hold the Rx in position, and also the Rx was well clear of the arming button.

In picture #2, the Berg Rx jutted away from the board, completely obstructing the arming button, because of the way the connector on the PC board was angled. In this case I had no choice but to use a very strong adhesive and clamp the Rx against the PC board for 24 hours in order to keep the Rx clear of the arming button. In this type of situation, if the silicone adhesive is used, you will see a separation like the picture in the previous post.

Ciao,
Bruce
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