osteo16

HELLO PEEPS,
Here is the scoop. Been R/C ing for 20 years. Cars and Nicads. Got into e-flight last year or so and I have a blank canvas for purchasing my new batteries and other ancillary equipment. Figured I would go with the latest greatest, fortunately for me cost is a minimal factor. I've got a heli and 2 electric planes ( yet to be built) and have been flying the heck out of my G4 for 6 months. I would like to know what options I have to start up my fleet of e-powered toys. Cell balancers? Triton Charges, Bantam c6??? All this is great but I would like to know from some people with good opinions on the newest industry equipment. Chargers, packs, balancers, ect. Thnaks for any and all input.


Sincerely,

Chad

Walt Thyng

My Feedback: (9)

Get on the Ampeer mailing list http/[email protected]/kmyersefo

This is a premier newsletter from an all e club of which Keith Shaw is a member. Lots of good stuff in every issue and the archived material is invaluable.

When I was the only e-flyer in northern N.H. and totally ignorant, the Ampeer taught me a lot.
Walt

rmenke

My Feedback: (13)

Walt:

Started where you are about 5 years ago with somewhat normal limited disposal income. After research on all this stuff, started out with axi motors, Castle Creations controllers and Thunder power batteries. Now, after trying a bunch of advertised good and cheep equipment, am back to where I started, with good reliable stuff. My original TP batteries, 1350's two of the 3 are still going, the other died in a dumb thumb thing. Through the years have added Hacker motors and controllers to the list along with a new motor line "Thrust". Had to replace the AXI 2808 with recommended Thrust 30 in a PS Katana and was shocked to find it stronger with more flight time. Will also use "Max Amps" batteries on other non-performance projects, but always back to TP when I need good performance, 3d, speed. Outstanding info on Red Schoefield's "Battery Clinic" read as much as you can in that forum. Best overall advice I can give is to buy a decent fish scale and watt meeter. Check out your intended or actual equipment by tieing one end of the scale to the tail and open her up. Thrust numbers are actual rather than theory. Check entire system with the watt meeter to keep your motor within limits. One pitch or length of a prop can and will make all the difference in performance and a happy ballanced system, and keep the smoke away. If your motor, or controller, or battery gets hot, something is not right. Usually too big a prop, too small a controller. When going for a 3d setup, I usually over size the controller by 25-30%, but you must check it with the watt meeter to be sure you are not pulling more amps than the motor is rated for, and things are running cool. In 4 electric birds flying, all run hand warm at the end of a flight, motor, battery and controller. Life is pretty good these days with most responsible manufacturers and reliable shops doing a lot of testing prior to recommending a system. Now, temper that with reason. Naturally GP or GWS is going to recommend their stuff, most of the time its servicable, but you end up with a replacement system all to frequently at double the expense. Until recently literally all the gear you got with a airframe was throwaway. Now, much is servicable when buying from someone like 3d hobbies, Performance specialities, OMP, Southern Sailplane, and many more I am sure. ENJOY