Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I have a WM EP Mustang and put the brushless geared replacment motor in it along with the 25amp ESC that goes with that motor. Does it need a higher amperage ESC to handle the 2200mah 11.1volt LiPo pack. Also what cheaper replacment motor like a Towerpro would be better than the 400 class geared brushless motor I have now.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

The esc needs to "handle" the motor/prop and then the battery needs to "handle" the motor/prop.

The battery can be oversized and so can the esc. The esc and battery spec should be xx amps (or more) determined by the motor/prop.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

So if the motor and ESC came as a set then they are most likely compatable drain vs load wise. But is the battery being little larger than the plane takes wondered if it goes with the 25amp ESC.

jdetray

Hi Basil -

If the larger battery is the same voltage as the one it replaces, there may be (at most) a small increase in current due to the larger battery maintaining its voltage better than the old battery.

The main determinants of the current seen by the ESC are the motor, gearbox, and prop. Changing any of these will change the current. For example, a larger prop (in either diameter or pitch) will draw more current than a smaller prop.

When making these kinds of changes to a power system, it is recommended that you check the performance with a wattmeter. A wattmeter will tell you at glance how much current you are drawing. Then you will know for sure if any of your components are seeing more current than they can handle.

Why guess when you can know for sure?

- Jeff

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I had no problem with the last setup but it started smoking leaving the battery with a hole in the back of the pack and the ESC looked like charcoal. But the equipment did work perfectly for a few flights before burning up. Possibly a bad ESC or Battery I thought but would like to be sure as I have replaced the parts with the same ones and don't want another cookoff.

jdetray

Basil -

This where a wattmeter could help you. If it saved you from cooking a battery and ESC, the wattmeter would have paid for itself. Wattmeters start at about $40 and in my opinion are essential for any e-flyer who ever ventures beyond completely stock airplanes.

- Jeff

cyclops2

Basil.

What propellor size was supplied originally ? I ask because all the burned stuff sounds like a TOO BIG prop.

Can you not fly till some one checks it out on a calculator for you ? Can you read any # on the prop & post them ?

Rich

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

It is the sttock prop that came with the plane from World Models, there's no size on it but it did come with a part number WMC PL6314020
Is the 4020 the size of the prop?

jdetray

The size of a prop is usually two numbers. The first is the diameter of the prop, the second number is the pitch.

A prop with a diameter of 9 inches and a pitch of 7 inches would be a 9x7 or 9070 prop. A 11x6 or 1160 prop would have a diameter of 11 inches and a pitch of 6 inches. In parts of the world where the metric system is used, these dimensions may be given in millimeters (mm).

For a 2-bladed prop, the diameter is simply the length of the prop from tip to tip. The pitch describes the tilt or angle of the prop blades and is not something you can easily measure. The pitch is the distance that the prop would move forward through the air for each revolution, assuming there is no slipping, no drag, etc. One analogy is a screw being driven into a piece of wood. The pitch tells you how far the screw will penetrate with each rotation.

Your prop is larger than 4 inches across isn't it? If so, then 4020 is not the size of the prop.

- Jeff

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

If the problem was with the load being too high on the ESC and causing the components to go up in smoke wouldn't that happen while your flying as the load is increasing from the work the motor is doing. This just happened after the battery was blugged in. The ESC started beeping in short beeps continually then smoke.

jdetray

Just the opposite is true. I most cases, the load on the ESC and motor is slightly less when you are flying. In addition, static running on the ground is usually the worst case because there is no cooling airflow from the plane moving through the air. That's why you should not run at full throttle for more than a few seconds at a time when testing on the ground.

Now if you did nothing more than plug in the battery before your ESC smoked, I would think that either there was a defect in the ESC or that you had the battery-to-ESC positive and negative wires swapped.

- Jeff

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

some of the Tamia plugs are not very good. They can be plugged in backwards. I'll have to get better pugs to avoid a RP.In this case I think the ESC was bad. If the motor leads shorted out would this also cause the cooking parts.

downunderdog

Cheap ammeter and voltmeter is only $6 at hobbycity.com... (only good for up to 30 amps, though)

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8319&Product_Name=HexTronik_VA-Tester__(Voltage_&_Current_indicator)

they also have the watts up meter for about $55

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6380&Product_Name=Watt_Meter_&_Power_Analyzer_(Watts_up)

Or a turnigy one (up to 75 Amps) that has simulated throttle signal driver for $36

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...Watt_Meter_75A