Chuck,

I am here searching for something close to your issue. New 230S V2 paired to a DX9. She flies great in Stable mode but no mater what I do in stunt 1 or stunt 2 following the handbook provided all it does is self destructs and spin doing the funk checking. That said I took and chance and paired it to my OLD DX6i flys like a dream in Stable and Stunt 1, that transmitter does not have a stunt 2. At first when the heli’s kept flipping in S1 & S 2 Horizon said the gyros were defective and sent me a new V2 receiver/gyro and still that same thing. That tell me that the issue is with DX9 not like the 230 in stunt 1&2. I tamed the setting waaaaaay down and still it’s all over the place. So for the moment I have leaving it on the DX6i.

Here are the different setting for the 230 S and the 230 S V2. Perhaps this might help you.
JPEE

Hello Chuck,

Are you saying that the second one was defective too? Or they replaced and it’s fixed?

I just put my back together today and with the DX9 in “Stable” she flew like a dream. For now I have gone through a broken frame, three booms, two tail blades, and linkage rod that flew off and was lost ALL happening from anytime the heli’s is in stunt or idle up call it what you will in either #1 or #2. I did get it to fly in #1 when I made the exact curves pitch and throttle as Stable........but what good it that? I want to do my cork screws, rainbows, loops etc but slower than my larger Heli’s.

Thanks for your reply

John P

Gg
You too Chuck. I just finished moments ago going through the complete set up again on the DX 9 in all three modes, Stable and Stunt #1 & #2 and she flies like a dream. To windy to take try so light 3D but she is ready.

Here is a video for you that found helpful from this guy, he’s good with the 230S V2. He has a host of video for these Heli’s.

How to replace the boom? I know, sounds easy, but there is trick here that is unlike all of my TREXs

I’m not sure if I saw it on one of his many videos but I ventilated the tail motor bracket. When you look at it you’ll see two indentations and which you don’t see is that the air is being sucked in from the outside where the blade is but has very little room to escape that’s causing him most opinions the tail motor to get warm. The article I read was that guys are looking at their copper windings on the tail motor and they’re not shiny copper there now brown because they’re burning off the insulation. So I originally was going to do is the guy said he was going to do which was to take a Dremel and router out those two in dented areas, that didn’t work well for me. Weighing it out in my mind I just drilled three holes which took the predominant amount of plastic out and ventilated the motor and I did it on both indented areas on that plastic motor boom mount. In order to accomplish this I did have the motor off the boom so it’s not a foul it with any plastic or slip with the drill. Just food for thought.

Take care and fly. John