jaless

Read the post from John a few days ago pertaining to covering the blades with monocote so I thought I would give it a try. Stripped the old covering off and used thin CA on the end 3 inches of the blades, top and bottom to help add strength. I than covered with monocote and re-balanced. Works quite well. The blades just feel stronger. Still have to see how they will hold up to a hard strike. The old covering did little to protect from even the slightest strike.

futura

....double post

futura

After fixing my blades, instead of using monocoat, I use a foam brush to apply a thin coat of 30 min apoxy to the entire blade surface. If you don't like the wood look, just spray a VERY THIN coat of paint on before applying the apoxy.

BALLANCE THEM!!!

Greubin

I'm wondering what people are using for replacement rotor head shear pins? Mine is looking a bit skewed these days. I picked up a .039" wire at my LHS but it's just a bit undersize for the rotor head assy.

ljrt

Greubin :

Don't tell her but I went through my wifes sewing stuff until I found a needle that worked. It is the type with the hole in it for the thread. I cut it to size and works great. It is hardened steel and lasts a lot longer.

bdavison

My Feedback: (1)

Ive been using those T-pins available from the hobby shop. Just cut the ends off and insert it as normal. Works great, and it will still shear on a hard hit to save the other parts.


Grubin....

Your gonna get it when she finds out you took her "good" sewing needle.

autoeject

My Feedback: (1)

bdavison
Thanks for the t-pin idea. I've got a box of them from the 'wonderful' days of stick building yet hadn't even thought of them. Been 'thiefing' safety pins for my blade. Tip should ease tensions round the house
Thanks
Mark

Jet Jaguar

Preciate the congrats Futura. Yeah, rob lost his shogun, not too bad though. striped a gear in the shaft and the blades are gone, but i think he lost it just because he hasn't been flying in a while, and tried to do something outside his means. but oh well, practice makes purple, or is it pink?

bluesteel212

couple of questions about chargers if you guys dont mind..

any chargers out ther that can charge more than one nimh at a time like 3 at a time?

i got the vision peak ultra that does all types not sure now if i want that i think i wan to keep lipo and nim seperate.

also any charger that can tell what kind of battery is pluged in?

auto cut off if batttery if battery id aready charged?

or beep when charge is aready done?


is there a much prefered charger than the vision peak ultra

thanks


Tommy

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

There will be many suggestions, and here is mine.
I am using the Hobbico ELITE, it will charge two batteries at a time, from Nickel to NiCad to Lipos.
You can program in any size mAH and type and can do two types at one time.

I guess you can tell I like it.

In fact I am charging two batts now so I can keep flying my Blade in my apartment

Greubin

Thanks for the T-pin idea, never thought of that. I did steal 1 sewing needle to get me thru a flight in the garage tonight

jaless

Horizon is now selling the sheer pins for Eflite by the bag. Guess they must have been reading this forum. Picked up a bag of the at my LHS last week. The fit was a bit loose so I just added a slight bend to the pin and it fit nice and tight.

jaless

Retaining pins (6)BCP Check out part number EFLH1135. 6 for 1.99

jaless

Tommy, I have also been using the Hobbico ELITE for the past two weeks now and I highly recommend it. It will charge two batteries at once. I believe the limit is 10 cell for NICAD and 3 cells for LIPO's. As Roger said it will do nickle to NICAD and LIPO. It aslo can do temperature monitoring with the addition of an optional temp. plug. I like this idea especially when charging LIPO's Let's you set a cutoff temperature in case the battery gets too hot.

futura

I've tried both the Tpins and the sewing needles. if you cut the ends off after insertion, the pointed tip helps in the insertion process. The sewing needle is harder metel and shears alot cleaner which makes removing the head easier and with less damage (groving) to the inside of the head where the main shaft runs through it.

I got mine a Kmart and started with a pack of assorted sizes. once I found the right size, I just buy that size. It costs me $4 for eight so the Eflite pack of 6 for $2 is a better deal though I haven't seen those at the LHS yet.

we gonna see some on the shelf soon JET???

DaveG55

Thank You VERY much.
That's exactly the kind of help I need.
I'm so new at helis that I don't even know what I should be asking and that (and this forum) goes a long way towards helping.
Just my opinion here but I think that e-flite and Horizon should be talking to you about providing a version of that tutorial in the box with the Blade CP. The manual they include is ok if you have some idea of how helis work and never crash. But, for newbies like me, once you crash, you have no idea of what to look for or how to fix it or even if something is not right.
Again, Thank You for the tremendious amount of time and effort you put into that thread. It is extremely well done and easy to understand.
Dave

viper10a

On my Blade I am having issues with the tail motor. When I first start on a pack the Nose wants to turn right so I move the trim all the way to the left, after 30 seconds to a minute the tail is so weak I have to move the trim all the way to the right and hold the stick to the right about half way to keep the nose straight. Would a DD Tail help this or is something else I could do?

AV8TOR

My Feedback: (2)

OK I am the proud owner of a Blade. I slipped out lunch time and picked one up at MLHS. Is there a simple way to tell if the washers/bearing mod has been done without taking the head apart?

1LO64

I think this is normal, I experience the same. I start with a full battery pack and ONLY set my trims to the full status, then once the battery starts to drain less & less power is transferred to the tail resulting in constant changes. I'll be moving to lipo's soon to get a longer battery life, constant charge, and more power.

midwestflyer

I also am the proud owner of a E-Flite BCP, and tho I have not yet actually flown it, I have had the 'opportunity' to replace the main rotor blades.

I thought I had seen somewhere that somebody had a two-motor upgrade/replacement tail motor setup. I cannot find it on the HorizonHobby website, so wonder if anybody else has seen that, and where I might be able to find it.

TIA

cruzmissile

Because the tail is controlled by a motor it will do this with or without a DD tail setup. The DD tail setup is only for improving the stability of the tail. And yes it does do a wonderful job. The tail is more responsive and the gyro seems to work better at keeping the tail in one place. If you want a heli that will not have to have the tail adjusted every flight, I suggest getting a belt or shaft driven tail heli like the MX400, TREX, Shogun... and others like them.

cruzmissile

This is not the best option if you want a better tail. The Direct Drive system is the best way to go. GWS sells a tail kit that is for a DD setup. The DragonFly II DD model, uses this setup and will fit directly on the CP. You will need a DD motor, GWS tail/vertical fin, and DD prop. There is much info about this DD setup on this thread and on other sites on the web.

pavehawk

There will be an extra page inserted into your manual if you have the new grips. Congrats on the new Blade.

AV8TOR

My Feedback: (2)

OK great thanks, I guess that is what I have.

AV8TOR

My Feedback: (2)

Oh one last thing, my LHS did not have any training gears in stock and being I have not flown RC heli’s since the mid 80’s I will want those on. I have some carbon fiber tube 3/16” that might be overkill. What is the size of the rod used on the training gear if anyone knows?
Thanks