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  1. #876

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    i fixed my problem, all it took was lubing up the entire heli....works great now
    Evader ST, RC18R/T, Blade CX, Blade CP, Flightstar 40, Parkzone Piper

    Sold- Savage 25

  2. #877

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    new prob, i somehow stripped my outter shaft gear and the fly stabilizer can spin around with blades moving, its also stripped......i plan on getting aluminum flybar head but do they make an outter shaft with aluminum gear?
    Evader ST, RC18R/T, Blade CX, Blade CP, Flightstar 40, Parkzone Piper

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  3. #878
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    I'm not sure if it holds true for helis given the damaging outcome of a stripped gear mid flight, but in rc cars you tend to avoid all metal gearing since you need something to give before the motor or mounting. Ideally the gear breaks before something more important. Since losing a tooth or two isn't an instant crash on cars though you have a little more forgiveness than in a helo that comes dropping out of the sky out of control. just something to consider. Properly meshed, and barring crash damage, you shouldn't have problems, so just make sure to look it over after any crashes or anything that might have stressed it beyond normal.

    I do wonder if any third party companies make gearing for Blades. In the cars there are numerous companies that make gearing for the popular vehicles, with varying degrees of durabilty, quality and selection.
    Remy - Practice practice practice

  4. #879
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    It holds true for helis as well...

    That plus the metal teeth often cause RF interference further complicating matters.

    That is why you rarely find metal gears on even large helis, on both of the gears.

    If anything a "soft" metal gear is used in contact with a stiffer plastic.

    There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

  5. #880

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    No the aluminum bearing holder goes on top of the outer shaft and the inner shaft slides through the bearing it is holding. looks like the plastic bearing holder. only metal.
    Always Remember no matter where you go, There ya are

  6. #881
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX


    ORIGINAL: fossoman

    No the aluminum bearing holder goes on top of the outer shaft and the inner shaft slides through the bearing it is holding. looks like the plastic bearing holder. only metal.
    No, we are talking about metal GEARS, not the shaft.

    All metal gears should not be used.
    There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

  7. #882

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    ok thx
    Evader ST, RC18R/T, Blade CX, Blade CP, Flightstar 40, Parkzone Piper

    Sold- Savage 25

  8. #883

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    For a year I have struggled to get my eflite heli tuned so it won't spin in flight. I've adjusted the trim, the 4in1, tightened and loosened screws and stuff added a heat sink. Is there a good way to make this thing fly without spinning? Sometimes it works but most times not. I was told I should tighten the shafts and loosen the shafts until it's right. Please help. My son and I just want a few good flights.

    Just point me in the right direction pleasse

  9. #884
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    A degree of left or right "spinning" or yaw is unavoidable on these helis.

    The heli does not seem to have a heading hold gyro, so as the voltage from the batteries/bec varies the heli will tend to yaw either left or right, and/or may change in flight.

    If the yaw is uncontrollable without minor (2-4 ticks of the joystick) rudder inputs, your heli needs tuning.

    Note that it is somewhat NORMAL to start out with the trim set say, 2-5 ticks one way, and by the end of the flight have to set it completely over the other way to keep the yaw under control.

    That is the price you pay for the low cost electronics...



    Usually a difference in "lift" between the two sets of blades can result in one direction being favored over another... any form of binding which causes one blade not to spin as freely as the other also complicates matters.

    The aluminum bearing holder and shaft upgrade helped this out a lot on my heli AFTER I discovered the balance issue with the numeric markings on the blades.

    Ideally all four blades should have the same number, but matched pairs do work well.


    If the metal gears are too tight against the large plastic gears, then imperfections or out of roundness in the large gear will result in vibration.

    The 2 pieces of paper rule applies here.


    As noted, this heli uses a quartz piezo gyro. These types of devices can and will vary according to temperature, which is why the holes in the cowl can be effective to cure a degree of yaw variation during flight.

    There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

  10. #885

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Thanks for the overview. I'm not sure which is my problem. The lower blade is tighter than the upper but they start at the same time. The upper blade has more spin after the motor is powered down, but it spins to the left. No amount of trim or 4-1 adjustment wil lmake it straight at full battery or any other time. The lower blade is much stiffer though. Thats all i can figure out. It makes no sense.

  11. #886
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    If your lower blades are tighter to turn than the uppers that is definitely gonna cause a problem. It may be tighter because the gear mesh is too tight. Try set the gear mesh and see if the blades spin a little more free than they are now. With 1 set of blades tight that means that motor is working harder than the other 1 and not spinning as fast which results in the heli spinning. Try to get them as close as possible.
    NO I did not just crash!! Im making it flop around on the ground like that on purpose. Its a new stunt.

  12. #887

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    As Psikelly mentioned, check the gear mesh, also, try adding a drop or two of light oil, graphite or teflon spray to the gears. If this doesn't fix your problem. It may be a motor going bad, they only last 20 or 30 hours, if longer your ahead of the game. Also, try lubricating the shaft bearings.


    Hope this can help ya,


    Dave / Choppersrule

  13. #888

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    OK. How do I check or adjust the gear mesh?

  14. #889

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Take out the motor that drives the 'tight' rotor, then turn the rotor to see if it is still tight. Of course, it will always be easier to turn with the motor out, but it should turn VERY VERY freely with no motor. If you feel any resistance at all, then the problem is not gear mesh.

    If it turns very well with no motor, AND you are SURE the motor is good, then put a piece of paper between the motor gear and the main gear when reinstalling it. Push the paper down into the teeth between the gears, then tighten the motor down. Once it's down, rotate the gears to 'walk' the paper out.

    Now, your gear mesh should be just right, because removing the paper will leave a slight gap between the gears.

    You may have to try it a few times until you get it just right. Be patient. If you get frustrated, just set it all down, and go do something else for a while. When you come back, it will be MUCH easier to get it right.

  15. #890
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Two pieces of paper!

    There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.

  16. #891

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX


    ORIGINAL: opjose

    Two pieces of paper!


    Yes, sometimes 2 or even 3 pieces. It depends greatly on the paper you use. Paper comes in many different weights/thicknesses. You will just have to experiment until you get it right...

  17. #892

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    I did what you described and it's better. It does not spin left anymore. Now it spins right. The trim and 4-1 adjustments are useless to stop it. It will fly and we've gotten good at flying it and making it not spin, but it would be so nice to have it hover without touching it for once.

  18. #893

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX


    ORIGINAL: sfari_dave

    I did what you described and it's better. It does not spin left anymore. Now it spins right. The trim and 4-1 adjustments are useless to stop it. It will fly and we've gotten good at flying it and making it not spin, but it would be so nice to have it hover without touching it for once.

    Even with the best setup, it will never hover hands off for very long without some tail movement. As the battery wears, and the motors heat up, the trim has to be pushed to the right slowly. This means that even if you get it to hover hands off, about 4-10 secs is the longest you're going to go before the tail starts to creep in one direction. That's just how these things are.

    As I understand it, tho.. you say that it constantly spins in one direction, regardless of the 4 in 1 adjustment, and the trim on the TX, correct? This is not normal. You should be able to get it to hold the tail steady for several seconds before having to move the trim. Especially when you first start flying with a new batt and cool motors...

    If it now spins the other direction, and you can't tune it out, then maybe the other rotor/pinion has the same problem??? If so, repeat the procedure on it...


    Also, if the 4 in 1 adjustments seem to do nothing, it is possible that the pot on the 4 in 1 has been broken by being turned too far, etc. If this is the case, then you would have to replace it. If the pot can turn around in one direction forever without stopping, this is likely the case.

  19. #894

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Anybody out there replace the motors and then have a wildly uncontrollable yaw problem?

  20. #895
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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    No I havent but when you replace the motors you need to adjust your proportional mixing again. Its kind of like of like replacing the carb in your car. The new 1 will never be set the same as the old 1. You usually have to set it all up again.
    NO I did not just crash!! Im making it flop around on the ground like that on purpose. Its a new stunt.

  21. #896

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Have you put new motors in your cx? Any problems with yaw after you did it? My cx acts like the gyro's on steroids since I replaced my motors.

  22. #897

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Tried that but I don't think it's a trim issue. I can get it to center but any rudder and the motor takes off with the heli spinning behind it. When holding in my hand and I rotate slightly, the reaction is exponentially greater than with the old motors.

  23. #898

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Ok, I figured it out. I thought I was paying attention when I replaced the motors but in an act of stupidity, I reversed the motors or the plugs. The net effect was that the rotors were spinning the correct direction but the gyro didn't like what I did very much. When I reversed the plugs she flew great. I guess that's another notch on the old learning curve. I also seem to have degraded my lipo's flying in high 90's to low 100's weather a few weeks back. Probably the real problem all along rather than tired motors but I didn't think I'd damage 3 lipo's simultaniously. Any body else out there have a problem with heat?

  24. #899

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Actually, lipo batteries 'like' heat. It is cold they can not tolerate. At least that's what I've read from several sources...

    Are you careful not to run them down too much, and also to not charge at more than 1C?

    We've had nothing but 100+ weather ever since I got my BCP, and my lipo seems just as good as always. I never fly for more than 10 mins at a time, tho... I have to let the motor cool. If I push it too long, the main motor will degrade very quickly when it is so hot.

    One day about 2 weeks ago, it hit 108F here, and I was flying in it. I had to stop after about 6 mins. The main motor was so hot that it could barely hover any longer

    I had to replace that motor about 1 week later.

  25. #900

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    RE: Eflite Blade CX

    Helo Everyone,

    Another thought is that your 4 in 1 is heating up also. I did a mod to my rx case and it was like night and day. If you get really good at keeping it in the air you can take the next step as I have and remove the case all together and just double stick the circuit board to the frame.

    http://www.dacaur.com/bladecxhelp.html#gyro

    Since this mod I have had no issues with tail drift, other than the slight movement through the decrease in battery power

    It is also imparitive that you have the cx level when plugging in the battery. Do not touch it again until the green light goes solid.

    Mark
    Keep it in the air, not in the garbage can!


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