joecass

my blade cp will not keep a steady altitude in hover. i have the 9t pinion main motor and thunder power li-po battery with heat sinks on both motors. the main moter is less than 2 months old. it also has a brand new main shaft and main blades. dont think this is a sticky collective pitch problem because i have been down that road before. what do you guys think?

rjm1982

Are you talking feet or inches?

An inch or 2 doesnt seem out of line...its a micro

Also (and you've probably done this already) its hard to fly a heli right as far as throttle with the tx they give you...the ratchet, so if you havent already, put a peice of fuel tubing over the metal ratchet peice inside...so you arent jumping from one notch to the next and bobbling

If its doing it without you touching the throttle, are you outside or inside? wind will make it want to bobble too...

other than that, i dunno, im far from an expert..

joecass

i'm flying indoors and yes it is dropping about a foot or 2. i know there is a problem because it never did this before. thanks for the help. is there anyone else haveing this probem or any sollution for this problem

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

buddy of mine has one and we have been flying to quite a bit....

same thing recently started happening... I have done the collective pitch washer switch... but I really don't think that is it (we are still really bad and only flying with FP!)

and yes... we will be hovering... and it will just drop.......
quite scary...no idea....

boostcrzy

Try adding a turn or 2 of pitch to the pitch links(counter clockwise)....seems to help....

joecass

i tried adding pitch but it did not help.

rjm1982

Check the blade speed with an RPM guage (if you dont have one, hit your lhs up, they usually have on on hand...)

Set it to idle up and keep the stick centered, so you get the power from the motor but no lift...and watch the rpms...they could be dropping (could be bad batt or esc) ....

If its dropping, it might not be dropping enough to hear it in the motor (hard to tell with electrics, you can hear 50 rpm it seems with gassers)

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

not sure about Joe...but for me it is not a slow drop......like a low battery

it is just .....

Wham....and it drops a foot or two...then recovers and flys fine

joecass

yeah i guess you can compare it to a low battery

Motions

Mine does the same every once in a while. Just a split second drop like the Rx glitched. It recovers a split second later and keeps hovering. Very strange. I can only attribute it to radio interference.

joecass

ok rjm1982 i will give that a try thank

joecass

this is an ongoing problem all the time when hovering

L0stS0ul

If yours makes no changes in noise and just seems to yoyo up and down then this is the likely cause. Mine will only yoyo about an inch or 2 back and forth when in a stable hover.

It's the center hub and rotor head. The flybar is connecting the side of the hub when the head speed is higher. I've been diagnosing this problem as well. Horizon Hobby says to take a file or sharp knife and chip away at the sides of the center hub that the flybar goes thru. I tried that and my issue got better when I was in standard mode. When I flick it to idle up the jumping comes back.

I'm replacing both the center hub and rotor head tonight. I know it's $20 and sucks. The chipping away at the old one didn't work for me as to fix it in idle up would require me to take out to much material.

If you don't fly in idle up mode I would recommend that you attempt the widening of the center hub area that the flybar goes thru. I would then relube that whole section using your favorite silicon oil. The recommendation I got was to use RC Car Shock Oil and I'll be trying that tonight.

Good luck. I'll post back here once I make the modifications to my heli. I have traced the problem to these 2 parts though.

Mine is not as bad as yours. It's only dropping about an inch and it seems to yoyo up and down in a stable hover. It never did this before I crashed it last week and rebuilt it.

joecass

thanks for the help i will give that a try. do you have any pictures on the exact spots that i have to file down

Dave ESPI

Look for a mold seam, sometimes they get caught up. Use soem 400 grit or higher sandpaper on the yoke. Also it could be your power flow is being interupted with RF signals. Are you under any high power lighting, or any weird magnetics ?

I have had "signal noise" mess with cars too.

L0stS0ul

I've made the modifications to my heli. Unfortunatly my digital camera can't take closeup shots of the hub. I replaced my hub and rotor head completely. I also had to use a drill and the 15/64 drill bit to widen the hole of the rotor head. Once I did that I cleaned it up and lubed it with 30 weight RC Car shock oil. I also lubed up the swash plate, blade grips, and center hub as well. I made sure everything was smooth. The head is now much more sturdy that it was before. It used to have a lot of play and it does not anymore. I did not have to cut down the slot that the flybar goes thru on the new head since there is no play.

It's finally smooth. Ah what a relief.

Good luck to you.

Here's a few pics of my heli and the modifications I've made to it.

Some of the modifications are the E-Sky canopy, I liked it more so I went ahead and put that one it. I've also replaced the tail with the Direct Drive upgrade. I'm using the Symetrical blades on the 9 tooth pinion and the TP 1320mAh 11.1v lipo. The direct drive tail is amazing. I suggest everyone upgrade to that. It holds so solid now. I've also got the antenna wrapped around a straw which has helped reduce glitching a ton. And the final modification was getting rid of the flybar weights. I can't wait until the Bell-Hiller head comes out. It'll be so nice.

joecass

i chiped away at the center hub no change. i also am going to replaced my center hub and rotor head. were did you get your direct drive tail set up? thanks for all the help

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

DD setup looks like the GWS one that helihobby.com sells.

What motor did you use with it, the GWS one? I'm thinking of getting it for mine.

L0stS0ul

I got the DD upgrade at my hobbyshop. They carry the dragonfly and all the parts for it so they had everything there to do it. You want the motor with the gray end not the black one. The one with the gray end can handle the 3 cell voltage. I have seen some sites selling the upgrade with the black end motor and that will burn out in minutes. I have the heat sink on mine but it never even gets warm. I could probably remove the heat sink. The big issue is that the gray and black motors share the same product id number but the gray one has a added letter on the end.

To do the upgrade you need these parts:

[link=http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=192]Direct Drive Blade Adaptor (w/4530)[/link]
[link=http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=191]Direct Drive Tail Fin[/link]
[link=http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=195]CN12 heat sink[/link]
[link=http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=87]GWS CN12-RXC motor[/link]

Note: I'me very happy with the 4530 prop.
NOTE: Any online shop or brick and mortor hobby shop that carries the GWS Dragonfly should have these parts.

DO NOT USE THIS PART!

[link=http://www.heli-fever.com/product_info.php?cPath=6&products_id=93]This is the motor that most people who have issues buy. It can't handle the voltage[/link]

jasonchairosan

thanks for the info on the dd upgrad. i am still battling with my blade cp from doing the yoyo thing. i got a new rotor head and hub. i did not make any mods on the hub and rotor head. i am going to drill the rotor head next. how is your bird flying good still?

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

SO FAR the only problem I have had with mine is the tail pulsating when you give it right rudder (it's like the motor bogs down then revs up), I'm hoping once I go to the DD setup this problem will go away.

There seems to be alot of talk about head problems, but I haven't had any myself. There is, however, one thing that bugs me, there is about .5mm (give or take, I'm just estimating) of play in which the blade grips can slide back and forth on the feathering shaft.

L0stS0ul

Jason,

My heli is flying good now. With these micro heli's i don't know if you can ever completely get rid of the little jumps but mine has smoothed out a lot.

Jakjr,

E-Flite now has some shims out for the head that go between the O-ring and the first washer on the spindle on each side of the center hub. It is a cheap part. You might be in need of some new O-rings though. I had some play in the head on mine a long time ago and I replaced the o-rings and it went away. The main reason I want to put the shims in my heli now is to dampen the head some more.

joecass

i just got the updated 3 bb blade grips. When putting it together, it seemed alot smoother than the 2 bb set up that i was running. but now i have the typical sticky collective pitch problem. not to sure on the spacer set up used every thing in the package with the new grips.[sm=drowning.gif]

hobbes_lives

Hi all. I'm new to this group. I've been lurking for awhile. This is my first post.

Anyway, has anyone solved this issue? I have the same problem with my Blade CP. It goes up and down like a yo-yo, usually by 2 to 3 feet.

Could in-out play in one of the blade grips cause this problem? One of the grips has about 1mm of play and the other one doesn't.

Any ideas?

Thanks all.


Kyle

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You either have to shim the space between the blade grips and center hub or you can do like I did and shorten the lenght of the spindle shaft. The difference (slop) seems to be related to whether or not you have/use the 2 bearing or 3 bearing blade grips. Sometimes the blade grip bearings have not fully seated themselves and everything seems snug. But later things all of the sudden go loose because centrifugal force or just pulling on the main blades causes the bearings to fully seat. It really messed me up until I figured what was going on. My helicopter came installed with the 3 bearing blade grips, but my local hobby store sells the 2 bearing blade grips for replacements!
So, be preppared to refit where necessary. With the Blade CP you either seem to get it too loose or get it too tight. After a crash I needed to rebuild the center hub and rotor head. The replacement parts were far tighter than the original ones. I scraped and filed and sanded to make things smoother. You just have to know what you are doing, and do it carefully. Parts should fit closely without binding or excessive friction, but should not be too loose or excessive helicopter vibration will result.
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