chris1379

I have had my CX2 for a few months now and love it, however I have crashed the upper and lower blades in mid-flight several times now, resulting in broken blades, tail, and skids. The only thing I have changed is removing the flybar screw and moving the servo linkages out 1 hole. I have the aluminum upper head and shaft, but am reluctant to put it on for fear of bending the shaft when the flybar hits the ground. So, would the aluminum head help prevent the blade crashes? If not, what would?

Chris

mrasmm

I know the search on here isn't the best, but look up blade clacking. That's what most guys are calling it. I don't think the alum head does much for that, but you can get solo's flybar, or lengthen the shaft length between the two set of blades.

Balance

Check this out here Chris . Lots of good info plus blade clacking.

http://www.heli-max.net/mediawiki/in..._and_CX2_Setup

chris1379

Thank you all for the information. So is it a bad idea to remove the flybar retaining screw from the head? I sometimes wonder if the flybar popping out has caused a crash or two.

I read the directions above for adjusting the 4-in-1 but it doesn't mention the gain adjustment. Also, I think I may have a problem with mine. The adjustments seem to have little effect. Sometimes the turns one direction and other times it turns the other direction.

Oh, and the servo links are in the second hole. The CX2 has them in the first hole from the factory, if I'm not mistaken.

Chris

shufflez

Darn, i've typed a whole post, but my connection failed (2 times!), causing my post to be gone (but the second time i ctrl-c'ed!)...

Trying to recall, here goes:
The stock innershaft+upperhead holding the flybar doesn't have a screw!? If i recall correctly, it just snaps in to place (having to apply pletty of force to get it in/out).
Flying without a flybar or 'popping flybar' can most certainly and will cause a crash! The flybar keeps the upper blades level and 'absorbs' excesive movement (centrifugal and gravitational force).

Gain adjustment actually has not much/nothing to do with movement/direction. It's the proportional you want to adjust, the gain adjusts the gyro sensitivity.
The gyro senses movement and counteracts those by adjusting the servo opposite to the movement.
When the gain is low, the gyro-signals are 'ignored' until a certain point, causing the heli to (maybe) feel loose and irresponsive.
A high gyro gain causes the gyro to respond to every wobble and vibration, sending signals to the servo's to adjust it.
The continuous (unnecessary) adjustments cause the whole heli to jitter, because the servo's are pushing/pulling like crazy (little movements though).

Normally the stock setting of the gain is pretty much spot on, but maybe you want it 'more sensitive' for better response, or less for a (little bit) more stable flight.
The proportional setting adjusts the rotation, sending more power to one (or the other) motor for left or right rotation.
When you adjust this, just take-off and land a couple of times, to release the peak-current of the battery and to be in 'normal operating mode'.
As the power from your battery is high or low(ish), the 'parameters' will change and it'll rotate again, so you'll have to adjust it 'in between'.

You're not mistaken on the servo-holes, stock is first. Mine are in second as well, allowing for greater swashplate travel.

Please correct me if i'm wrong anyone!
Maybe a bit to much text as a response, but i tend to do that

ksmith61

I had the blades clack on mine the other day, and when you are about 25 to 30 feet in the air when it happens, LOOK OUT!!! I upgraded to all metal parts (stock upgrades from e-flite) and now she flies like a dream, even outside. I do have one slight problem thou. I forgot to locktite the set screws on the lower head and have now lost both of the top set screws. Anyone have any ideas on where a person might find some?

Kamov

the setscrew should be avail at most LHS.
just don't make a mistake putting too much locktite...put it on the setscrew itself and not on the part.

i bought a used heli in ebay and could not take the aluminum lower head[eflite] out that i had to cut the outer shaft and slowly hammer it out of it...
the guy used too much locktite the whole lower head was stuck on the outher shaft ..lol..thats probably why he sold it in fleabay
lucky enough he had 2 spare outer shafts inlcluded so it was no big deal for me..

GITRDUN

Blade clack is just something you have to be aware of when flying outside especialy or trying to fly agresively. I tried everything i could think of to eliminate the blade clacks but found nothing that really worked. I tried the extended inner and outer shafts, which were maybe 1/4" longer. Didnt help at all. Shortened the flybar and lightened it considerably, may have helped a little but didnt solve the problem totaly. The problem is when you get it moving nose down and fast, the blades will clack as soon as you try to pull back just a little. The upper blades bend down and the lower blades bend up just for a second and wham, crash. You might get lucky a few times, but if you push the envelope too many times its gonna happen. This thing is made to hover around, not to scream across the sky. Trust me , been there done that. I finally just decided to fly it like its meant to fly and stop trying to make it fly like a fighter jet.
I have heard of people removing the screw in the top that holds the flybar in. But unless im mistaken, the reason for that was so the flybar would pop out of the mount in a crash instead of getting bent up.

lextek

My Feedback: (1)

I agree 100%. I have calmed down and enjoy flying outside when there is no breeze. Start pushing it and you exceed the CXs limits.

shufflez

I agree 50% =)
Smashing it forward indoors hasn't caused a clack for me (yet), only outdoors in combination with wind.
Pulling it back real fast (after powering it forwards, if you're trying to rescue flying head-first into wall) will probably also cause it.
Most of the times i'm avoiding sudden change of direction (with the collective), just let it level out a bit first.

Tried the 'seesaw' motion (ffw, rwd, ffw, rwd, etc) again today, without a blade clack... On stock blades though.

Or maybe i'm just being a sissy and just think i'm really pushing it =)
(Crashed today, it doesn't like being driven in a 45degrees corner, i started to panic (or should i've said it messes up the airflow/stream =), dropped out of the sky, only damaged the stock 'wing' on the side! amazingly enough)

ssgtakeo

I agree, I upgraded to all aluminum parts and even moved the servo arms one hole in so that I could handle it aggressively as possible. The vid shows only one blade brush in the whole thing and as you can see I'm hauling it around pretty good

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK3ms7sxNDA]Blade CX2[/link]

BladeCX2Two

I went through the same thing a couple weeks back or so with my CX2. I have a post on here about it also. It's referred to as 'blade strikes' caused from agressive flying. I moved my servo linkage also to give me faster forward flight. If I went really fast forward and stopped on a dime or did a quick right or left she'd drop out of the sky from the blade strike. I've done the flybar mod written up by soloboss. Check out my pic. This is actually my longer modified flybar that I put on just to dial in the aluminum parts that I just upgraded to. My other one looks the same but it's about 3/4" even shorter on each side. Flys awesome. I fly pretty ridiculous and had maybe a couple of blade strikes in the last 2 weeks. The upgraded longer vortex shats probably helps also.

chris1379

If I understand you correctly, your servo links are in the 2nd hole from the center? What flybar mods have you done?

Last night I removed the brass flybar weights and used heatshrink tubing to restrict the flybar. It was very rsponsive but still fairly stable. I was flying it around under a streetlight until I went to far and couldn't tell it's orientation. I pulled back a little too hard and......well.......where do I buy one of those carbon fiber booms? The darn thing looked like it almost flipped over backwards, lol. I'll try it again in daylight as soon as the superglue sets up.

Chris

chris1379

Now I have a new problem and an old one that seems to be getting worse. The new problem is TBE. I probably bent a shaft last night. I'll just have to look it over closely and see what's bent.

The other problem has been around for a while. When I fly forward, I always have to give some right cyclic to fly straight. It just wants to go left. Anyone know what causes this? Could it be the small "wings" on the side of the body? One is angled lower due to a prior crash or two.

Chris

BladeCX2Two

Your TBE effect is likely due to a bend flybar, inner or outter shafts. Take your fly bar off and see if it's bent. It don't take much of any bend to develop TBE.

In response to your 2nd question, if the heli is flying left on it's own, and it's beyond the trim on the transmitter, you can change linkage by screwing it in or out. Your swashplate might not be perfectly level. I keep mine adjusted so that my trims are generally in the dead center and allow some room for trim when flying.

chris1379

OK, the TBE was caused by a bent inner shaft. I straightened it and it is back to the way it was.

To clarify the other problem, it only goes left when flying forward. It goes right when flying backward. The hover is almost perfect, except a normal amount of tail drift. The swashplate doesn't look level when hovering. It has quite a bit of "back" in it but both trims on the TX are centered. I adjusted the servo links for a good hover with the trims centered. Would the extra play in the flybar from removing the screw cause it?

Chris

BladeCX2Two

Well the flybar plays a huge role in how the heli acts in the air. If it's bent, off balance, etc.. it certainly won't react the way you want it. Honestly I would put that screw back in. I can't possibly see how taking that out would help anyone, period. If you're coming in for a hard crash, you flybar doesn't first pop off and then crash. You're gonna bend it regardless. Plus I think without the screw in there, it probably too much slop in the pivot point. When hovering the flybar is probably sitting pretty still but in any flight movement, it could be rocking back and forth too much with that screw out thus causing unexpected movements. Just a thought.

madmodelman

Hi Guys, just got my missus a CX2 but can't get this link to work, any thoughts please?

Balance

If you are talking about Soloboss' HeliMax setup page, that site has been down for awhile.
[&o]

shufflez

I'm trying to get the guide back online, but Solo didnt respond to my offer yet.
I can host it on several servers, so we can get (and i'm sure we'll have) it online ASAP.

madmodelman

Thanks guys, much appreciated.