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Question #1I bought a 35-48 1100KV motor from Hobby King
but it came with no mount and looks like it needs to be mounted from the front, the wires are coming out of the front of the motor next to the shaft. Did I get the wrong motor? It was recommended in this video:
Have you done this sort of thing before? What is your experience level?
The motor mounts to the "X" metal plate, that plate mounts to standoffs that you can obtain anywhere.
I used plastic standoffs I picked up at a local hardware store in their misc hardware metal display boxes.
You put the motor onto the "X" then temporarily tack glue the standoffs onto the plate.
Put the motor into position with the fuselage pointed straight up, and center the motor on the firewall/box.
Finally carefully slide the canopy over the motor being careful not to nudge the motor out of position and make sure everything lines up and looks right.
Then again carefully remove the canopy and mark where the standoffs are, then drill holes for the bolts and blind nuts. Bolts and blind nuts are obtained seperately... I found some at the hardware store...
Question #2I'd like to buy self contained retracts and the $10. ones reccommended on this forum are out of stock and have been for quite a while, I found these which are pretty reasonable and there's also a steering retract available, my question is, would these work/fit on this plane?
Your links don't work fully....
I've never seen $10.00 retracts for this plane but I did see single struts around that price...
The page you linked to shows electronic retracts that may work.
Frankly I'd use the included retracts. They have worked flawlessly for me.
However you DO need to get two retract servos to use them, and stiffer wire.
You also need to remove the existing servos, CA ALL of the wood in the area the retracts mount, and let it fully dry overnight before re-installing the retracts with LARGER screws than the puny ones provided.
The provided wires do work using standard retract servo, but I bought some slightly thicker wires from my LHS and used that instead.
I also used quick connects to secure the rods to the servo arms, to make the retracts easy to adjust.
I also added custom gear door covers, made out of spare X-Ray sheet plastic, some modeling plastic, and pop rivets.
I cut the thick white X-Ray sheet plastic to make the doors. I used the LHS modeling plastic to make 1/4" x 1" squares that I bent into "U"'s around the strut. A bit of heat with the plastic on a table, around a dowel, let me bend them to shape... and the "ears" of the plastic were rivetted to the doors for an authentic look. After installation a bit of CA keeps the new "doors" from rotating on the struts.
They have worked well and have never fallen off... the cover the provided struts to the point I've never bothered with scale ones.