mikedsilva

can anyone tell me where in Australia i can buy one of these kits? or is there a store in the States that will send me the kit??
regards

hammered_chaos

My Feedback: (7)

horizon hobby should be able to scratch that itch for ya! www.horizonhobby.com and tele#
1-800-338-4639 and my local hobby store, roffee hobby @ 1-740-685-8586 hope that that info will help you on your mini fun quest

Mark edwards

p.s ask for mike @roffee and tell them mark edwards gave you theire number. and call after 4:30pm eastern time he can help you with almost anything he's great at rc there service is the best i have ever received from a hobby store and they will do whatever they can to meet your needs!

vansrv8er

Guys,
I have just completed assembely on my new Mini Funtana. Set up is eflight park 400,4200 kv 2100 thunder power, 40a eflight speed control and hs servos. During my assembly process I have noticed a few things that I have questions about.
1 Control horns. The instructions say to use a hobby knife to enlarge the center hole in the control horn. I opted to use a small drill but when I was finished it appeared that there is now no edge distance to keep the push/pull wire from pulling out! Any one else had issues either during assembly or flight?
2 After installing the wings I have noticed a signifficant amount of flex(when you hold the model up by the wing tips). I have never owned a model that has a spar carry through so is this normal?
Thanks
Vansrv8er

jackmccomas

Just finished my Mini Funtana with an AXI 2808/24. Whe I hit the throttle the it seems to be binding and wont turn the prop, any suggestions please?? When I take the prop off the motor will turn, I dont think I put the prop on too tight, just a half turn after it was snug.

Thanks!

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

Mine flexes as well, so I have assumet that it is normal. I did add some 1/8 inch Wheel collars to the wodden pins to keep the wing tighter to the fuselage. Other than that it seems to be strong enough to fly well. No problems that werent caused by dumb thumbe etc.

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

Not sure what you should look for. Binding of some sort first comes to mind. Or you may have just gotten a bad motor.

I am using a Speed control that allows me to set the Cutoff voltage. If I plug in a pack that is lower than the cutoff setting I get a instant run and then it stops, with a prop on. Without a prop, it runs a bit longer before the cutoff kicks in. It is possible that you are getting cutoff if you are running under this condition.

Another possibility is that with the prop on, you are exceeding the current that the motor can handle, and it will shut down. With continued attempts, you will damage the motor beyond repair.

My speed controller also requires that I have the EPA set at 125% to get proper operation. Castle Creations 45Amp speed controller.

If you got the AXI from hobby lobby, it will be replaced, or they will assist you in troubleshooting the problem. Other than that I have no ideas. I use AXI motors exclusively, and none of the 10 motors I have ever gave this indicator. You might also call the manufacturer, or your supplier and get some feedback.

jackmccomas

Thanks Altacom,
I checked the voltage, I am using a 3C 2200 Mah, i just checked, its at 11.3V, brand new pack. I change the EPA to 125%, it was at 100%, this seemed to help with the motor kicking in and much less of the problem I was having. Going to call Hoppy Lobby in the morning. Do you think I need a new controller with my set-up?

2808/24
25 amp
3C 2200 Mah 8C 15 Burst
HS55
APC 10X5E (Good choice for 3D?)

I thought this set-up would hover at around 50%, seems more like 75%.

Thanks again!

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

Guys - I just test flew my Mini Funtana. I have the AXI2808/24, Jeti Advanced 30 Plus esc, APC 11x4.7 sf prop, and Thunderpower 2100 3cell lipo. I checked the setup with a Wattmeter and I was drawing 31 amps and 305 watts.

Should I switch to an APC 10x3.8 SF prop to lower the current?

Before my first flight, I noticed that my wings were hanging down (anehedral). I found that the wing tube was bent and the tube sockets in the wing and the rear tube socket in the fuse were sloppy. I put packing tape around the wing tube and it fit snugly into both the fuse and the wing tube sockets. The front fuse tube socket, on the other hand, is very snug without the tape. I would not be able to slide the wing tube into the fuse front tube socket without taking off the tape. If I bought another wing tube, I would still have to tape both ends of the wing tube, after I slid it into the fuse front tube socket.

Should I ream out the fuse front tube socket so that the taped up wing tube would slide snugly into either fuse tube socket or is there a way to modify the other tube sockets so that the wing tube, without the tape, will fit snugly into each tube socket?

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

I have a Jeti Advanced Plus esc program card. How do I hook it up to the Jeti Advanced Plus 30 esc, in my plane, so that I can program my esc? It would appear that I should connect the connector that runs from the esc to the receiver, to the Right set of pins on the program card, and connect a receiver battery ( of 4-6 volts) to the other set of pins on the right.

Is this correct or do I need to make up some type of adapter cables to hook the program card up to my system?

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I would use a 10 inch prop, and it will definately reduce the current below what you are drawing - in excess of what the ESC will handle comfortably. I always try to keep the current draw well below the specifications of the controller.

We, (Ten Pillows and I ) have placed 1/8 inch wheel collars over the wood dowel pins in the rear of the wing to better clamp the wing to the Fuse. We also have found that the Wing Tube must be straight for the wing to properly seat on the fuselage. We both also have found that the plane flies most satisfactorly with the wing in the rear tube. That might be just a choice that each flier migh make.

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I haven't used that card yet, but if I were to have such a question, I would definately call Hobby Lobby for Technical support. They are more than happy to assist in the use of any product they sell.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

I was thinking about bolting the trailing edge of the wings to the fuse. The wheel collar idea sounds good.

As far as the sloppy fit of the wing tube in the tube sockets, is the best solution to just wrap tape around the wing tube until it fits snugly in the tube sockets?

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I havent found the wing tube to be sloppy at all. It just must be the plane you received. On the ones we have the tube is a nice tight fit, and once oulled together seems to be quite well aligned and snug.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

I am happy with the quality of the plane, in general. I agree that it is probably just that my plane came with tube sockets that were slightly large. I also notice that when the wings are bolted in place, one wing half root rib does not lay flush on the side of the fuse. There are slight gaps at the leading and trailing edge.

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

The slight gap seems to be normal with this plane. So far it seems to have no effect on the flight characteristics.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

Guys - I have been flying my MFT for about a month. As I have stated before, I have an AXI 2808/24 with a TP 2100 3cell Lipo. I started out with an 11x4.7 prop but I was drawing 31 amps and 305 watts. I switched to a 10x4.7 prop and was drawing 27 amps and 275 watts. I tried an 11x3.8 prop and I was getting the same numbers as I was with the 11x4.7 prop. I tried a 10x3.8 prop and the numbers looked the same as the 10x4.7.

I only have one TP2100 3s battery, at this point, but I have been noticing some interesting things. I get all kinds of power at launch, but the power seems to drop off to a lower level, after a couple of minutes and stays at this lower level for the rest of the flight. It pulls through the loops fine, but I do not have unlimited vertical like a do at the beginning of the flight. I run out of steam at about 9 minutes and I have to land.

Is this characteristic of this battery/motor combo? My battery is warm, after the flight, but not hot. I have a Jeti Advance 30 plus.
I fly this every day and I have put over 30 flights on the plane.
Is there a battery configuration that will give me the same zip I get at the beginning of the flight, for more than 2 or 3 minutes?

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

Batteries do have a greater charge after they come off the charger, then go down to a lower voltage for the majority of the rest of the pack. I've heard this referred to the knee of the packs life. At that point they drop quickly to a voltage that is no longer safe to run the battery.

This is evident in the normal flight of a plane. More power after launch, then a settleing to a steady flight level, then a pretty quick drop until hopefully the ESC shuts the motor down at a level that will keep the pack from being damaged.

I try to trim my planes to fly well in that middle portion of the batteries useful life. Find a prop, balance, and mechanical trim that will fly well during that part of the flight and you'll have no problems.

What you describe is pretty much the way my MF, and all my other planes fly.

I am suprised that you are getting the same readings with so many different props. My Wattmeter shows major differences with any change of prop.

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

I just swapped out that 400 geared for a 370 outrunner and came back from the field to check RCU for a post just like this. I did the mount job ALMOST exactly like you did Dick ( wish I saw those pictures a little sooner) and must have had it off center, the MF snapped hard right twice before making a hole ! (that's Mini-Funtana BTW) ,,,,,could that have caused such a violent snap? ..at least the TP 3sp was saved! ..THOUGHT ANYONE? Mikel-T

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

WOW!! Sorry to hear that. We (Ten Pillows and I) are both still flying ours with the mount that I designed with no problems. We do make very sure and keep the Right thrust and Down thrust the same as the Wood Stick that came with the plane. Such a snap could be caused by having too much Right Thrust I suppose.

I would suspect something else. too much throw on the ailerons or rudder perhaps. Mine I fly with Aileron at low rate of about 1/8 inch of throw. High rate is about 3/8 inch and I use it only at altitude. It will do rolls on high rate in about it's own length, and quicker than the blink of an eye. I also have about -80% Exponential set on the Ailerons, -70% on the Elevator and the rudder.

werew

My Feedback: (4)

I just purchased my MF and only need the ESC and motor.

I'm new to electric flight and was wondering what advantage there is to using a JETI 30 ESC vs. a JETI 18 ESC with an AXI 2212/20 motor? Hobby Lobby recommends a JETI 18 ESC? What is the benefit of going with a 30 ESC with this setup?

I'm impressed with this plane's construction, fit and quality so far. For being prebuilt, it's pretty sharp. I could do a better job with a kit, but it'd take a LOT longer and for the price.... says it all!

The battery i have for it is a 1800mah 11.1volt LiPO.

Thanks for the heads up re: gearbox brushless VS direct drive. Makes perfect sense to me!

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

The botom line is how much Thrust do you want and how much Curent does your motor/prop combo draw. A 2000mah battery that can handle a 15c draw would handle 30 amps. If you are drawing 30 amps, you would require the Jeti 30 esc. The smaller the prop/pitch, the lower the current draw.

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

If you are going to swing the biggest prop the motor can handle, then the Current draw will be most likely in the 20-22 AMP range. So you would need the 30 AMP ESC to keep from burning it up. The 18 AMP will handle over 20 AMP in short bursts, but not continuously. I make it a point to always use a higher AMP ESC than I need for the insurance of not burning them out.

I burned out a few of them early on, and it was an expensive lesson. So always err on the high side. I have a 30 AMP Jeti on mine and have had no problem.

Note however, that the current draw does decrease when the plane is in the air, and the prop unloads. So you might get away with the 18 AMP for awhile. But for the difference in cost, the 30 AMP gives you a lot of leeway.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

I inadvertently left my TP 2100mah 3 cell lipo, in my MFT, connected to the Advance 30, overnight. When I checked the battery with my Duralite digital voltmeter, the display did not even light up. I tried the voltmeter on another Lipo and it worked fine. I charged the battery on my Astroflight 109 charger at 2 amps and it took 1hr 30min. I put in a 5 min flight. The voltage was 10.4 under a 1 amp load. I charged again and it took 1 hour. The voltage after charge was 12.2 under a 1 amp load. I do not know what symptoms an abused Lipo will display after it has been discharged below the 3v/cell limit. I do not know why the display did not light up when I first noticed the battery connected to the esc. You would think it would display at least some low reading.

Also, I was told that a TP 2100mah should only handle a 10C load, yet I am drawing 27 amps, at startup, when at full throttle on the ground. I realize that the current draw will be less in the air and at lower throttle settings, but do you think that the TP2100 is the right choice for the MFT?

I also notice that after 5 min, at half throttle, there is virtually no difference between half throttle and full throttle. It will still pull through a loop, but there is no vertical to speak of at that point.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

Another Boo Boo - As I mentioned a while ago, the tube sockets in the wings and fuse of my MFT were too large for the wing tube and I had to wrap tape around the aluminium tube so that the wings did not flap. While taking the wing tube out of one wing, I pulled out the outer half of the wing tube socket. Can I purchase replacement tube sockets somewhere?

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

Leaving the ESC hooked to the Li-Poly battery when not in use is a bad thing. The ESC still draws current when turned off, and not only will take the battery down, but has been known to cause fires while doing so. I always disconnect my pack from the ESC immediately after landing.

In a LiPoly pack the individual cells must be kept balanced for the pack to work right. When you ran them down too low, one of the cells may have gotten out of balance, and you are not getting the best out of the pack. Also this can cause fires as the detection circuit in the charger may try to send more voltage/current to the out of balance cell and cause it to get overly hot and burst into flames.

Safety suggests that any time you run a pack down below the safety level, you discard it. If you use PolyQuest or Duralite packs, you can buy a balancing Circuit that will insure that no cell will draw more voltage than the others, and in the Duralite version, it will actually balance the pack for you. I'm sure this is assuming that the cells in the pack are recoverable to begin with.

I use Kokam 2000 High Capacity cells on my MF, and they handle the plane very well. But I am only drawing 19 Amps, swinging a 10/5E prop on the AXI 2212/20. I get in the range of 12 minute flights with good throttle management. I trimmed the plane to fly hands off at 1/2 throttle, and it works for me.

Most packs will handle a burst current greater than the recommended C value. But that burst must be limited to just a few seconds to keep from hurting the pack. And in some cases the motor which also has an upper limit of current, and the ability to handle a burst for a short time.