wedgewing

I had someone screw with me and make me buy the Mini Ultra Stick (MUS) as a trainer and it scared the crap out of me [X(]

That being said it was a fire ball, and as the above poster stated is very sensitive to ham hands on the controls. I think now that I have flown it for a couple years I could fly the thing around in my living room as when it is set up right it can fly quite slow and docile.

I have trained two flyers using my repaired MUS, and what I did was to make the split in the aileron as suggested for the use of flaps and locked the inner surfaces and left only the outside ailerons functioning in low rates. I also have the CG back more than I had started with. I had always had the CG more forward thinking it would be more stable but this actually led to a very fast flight and more ham handing on landing.

Today, I use the plane a lot to help new pilots through the buddy box. The nice thing is take it easy on the "one to two mistake high" flying but get it up there and have fun opening it up and practicing with the controls and gentle input. Just use common sense and I think you would find the MUS a great starter if you take some steps to tame it down. It is a stable high wing chunky wing plane that is predictable and fun to fly. Find someone to help you and just go easy on the throttle and you will have a lot of fun.

j-unit

Great tips, thanx!

Wedge as you suggested
I was thinking of splitting the ailerons & actually setting up flaps for the slow landings...thats how I fly it on the sim. Otherwise, the landings are quite fast IMO.

My main concern is going w/ the Apprentice & growning bored...but naturally I don't want to be in over my head & quit the hobby after the maiden voyage.

thanks again,
J

patnchris

Landings on the MUS and 25E can be quite slow. One of the reasons they come in so hot is because the factory set up makes both planes come in nose heavy. I've flown both planes, extensively. (probably 400 flights, between the two of them) Through trial and error I've found that the CG can be moved back on both of them, quite a bit. Then other thing is that people tend to build them too heavy. The "more power is better" is not going to tame a Stik plane down. All it does is increase the wing load so the plane needs to fly faster to stay in the air.
The MUS will fly fairly well on the Park 450 motor. The trick is to skip the 15-20 minute flight time by using the 2100 ma 3S pack. I fly mine with a Park 450 and TP 3S 1320ma pack....It takes off from grass in less than 5 feet and lands on grass in about the same.....I'm not taking about manicured club field grass, either.....This is plane old soccer field grass. It will stay in the air at 1/3 throttle, and have almost inlimited vertical at WOT. It will do all aerobatics, just short of 3D and flight times are 8-10 minutes w/throttle management. I've even flown this plane with a Park 400 and 10 X 4.7 APC SLO FLY prop. This gives almost the same aerobatics, with a higher throttle setting and slightly longer flying time.... Flaps are nothing more than a neat gimmick on this plane, that adds nothing but more unwanted weight.....JMHO

My 25E is nose heavy with the Power 32 and 4S 4000ma packs. I refuse to add weight to move the CG rearward and instead move the pack as far back as possible. While it doesn't land and take off like the MUS, it still gets off the ground in 10 ft or so, and takes about 15 feet to land. I think, if I was to rebuild it, or get another, I'd skip the Power 32 as it has way more power than this plane needs. I'd go with the Power 25 and go with a 4S 3200 ma pack. I'd also skip the HS 225MG servos and go with HS82MG's...again, to save weight. I suspect that this would make this plane fly similar to my MUS......

The neat thing about both planes is that, if the wind is blowing a little harder than I'd like, I just switch to the larger packs and the added weight makes the plane handle the wind a little better.

I know there are many out there that will disagree with me, and say that bigger motors, larger packs, fatter props increase the planes aerobatic ability, but after being there, and doing that, I've found the opposite to be true. Lighter is truely better.

Another interesting thing, to note is that as the planes got lighter, the incidence of airframe failure has gone down, substantially. I have not had a wing mount failure or landing gear failure on either plane, for at least a year. .....JMHO.....Pat

j-unit

WOW,
superb feedback Pat,
thank you!

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

I have been flying my US 25e with a Power 25 motor, 13 X 6.5 prop and 3S2P 11.1v 4000 mah packs (as far back as possible) for approx 12 minute flights. Plenty of power and unlimited vertical.

For lots of speed, I use a 4S 14.8 2250 mah pack. Tremendous unlimited vertical! Flight time is approximately 6 to 8 minutes depending on how I use throttle. I don't know what more I could do with a Power 32 motor.

If I want to slow it down a bit on landings, I switch about 20% flaperons on. It just floats in.

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

jmir - I found mine dives fairly abruptly with 20% flaperons.

How much up elevator do you program in with the flaperons, or do you just add elevator yourself?

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

I use elevator manually as needed. However, mine does not dive abruptly like yours does. It should do the opposite, so that's kind of puzzling.

I keep some throttle on while landing so it does not stall.

Mosco

Anybody flying a US_25e wet? I have an old supertigre 23 that I resurected and would like to try it on a 25e.

patnchris

It will probably need more firewall and strengthening of the front section of the fuse....This plane is designed electric and stock I think it may have issue with the vibration of a nitro power plant

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

Anyone using a DX6i with a Stick with a 'full house' wing? If so, how do you use the gear channel to effect both regular flaps and reverse flaps so that you can achieve crow (flaperons down, flaps up)??

I have set up the flaps with a Y connector so that they will operate together on one channel (i.e. the gear channel, the only spare channel on a DX6i in this case.) I programmed flaperons as usual. When I operate the gear switch, the flaps are either ON or OFF. That's OK, but I want to use the two available mixes to get the actual flaps to move into three positions - up, neutral or down. It seems that for the most part, the gear channel is entirely binary (ON or OFF) Is this correct?

Any thoughts, or anyone who has solved this problem? I would appreciate it...Chris

Mosco

Thanks for the tip. I think I'll build something from scratch for the 23. I have an idea for a plane that's been knawing at me for a long time, and I just might draw it and build it.

Thanks again. I wound hate to spend$170 for something that shook apart in the air.

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

Sorry if this question has been answered before, but does anyone have the programming instructions for the ultrastick using a DX7 and AR7000 receiver, with full-house wing? I think it must be available somewhere. I want to be able to do the following:

1) use flaps alone
2) use flaps and flaperons together
3) use 'crow' (ailerons up, flaps down, for braking)
4) use the flaps and ailerons together as ailerons.

- any help is much appreciated...Chris

houckj

The instructions for JR7 channel are on the horizon website. Perhaps that will help.
[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/JR_7202_UltraStick_Programming.pdf]Ultra Stick Programming[/link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/JR_7202_UltraStick_Programming.pdf

bigdog5332

hi
i picked up a ultra stick 25 at a airplane swap meet and i am wondering,should i go nitro or electric.right now i have all electric planes
it has the strengthened firewall for the nitro motor becuse the previous owner had it setup as a nitro. but if i go electric i will be gong with the power 32 with 4s or mabey a stouter motor because we are about 5800-6000 ft above sea leval so i need more power/

thanks
bigdog

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

I think you will find that a power32 will be enough power to fly your Ultra Stick on the moon.

I have had three of them - the first two had the wing blow off because of failure at the two pins at the front edge of the wing. My current one has had the pins and surrounding area heavily soaked in CA.

My most recent one weighs in a 47 ounces (58+ ounces AUW), with 6 servos (4xHS225's, 2xHS81's for flaps), using an AR7000 receiver, Chinese 833kv outrunner and a 60A ESC. On 4S and a 13x6.5 prop it has enough power to fly asymptotically out of sight vertically. I typically use about 160-200 mah/minute of 4S power, so a 3000Mah pack can give me a 12-14 minute flight unless excessive hovering is attempted (I find the Stick hard to hover but you may be more expert.)

My previous two Sticks had Power 32's in them and the power was tremendous. You will not be unhappy with the performance.

Hope this helps. ..Chris

bigdog5332

ok thank you, i am gong to run the jr servos, an ar7000 and either a castle esc or a e-flite esc on 4s between 3000mah and 4200mah depending on what batts i order.

also one other ?
how do you flat spin this bird, i have a guy that i fly with and he flat spun his stick over 30 rotations and then we lost count but i am think it was in the mid 40s
and i once i get good at flying this, i want to flat spin it

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

Sorry, I don't know how to get a flat spin out of a Stick.

You'll probably find that a 4200 4S will be about as much as you can get into the fuse opening. I have a FlightPower Evo 4270 4S and it's a very tight fit. As I said before, I get a good ride out of a 3000mah battery, and if I put a 2650mah in it flies nice and light.

My only issue with the Stick is that it always seems to be going rather fast - or maybe I just got so used to the Eratix that I have been flying a lot until a recent splat took it out. For going as slow as possible, the lighter the better - the Eratix has a wing loading of 0.09 ounce/sq.in. as opposed to 0.12 for the Stick, so I opt for a smaller battery when possible.

Or maybe it's just that I'm not a very good pilot yet...Chris

patnchris

The 25e will come out very nose heavy with a 4S 4200ma pack and a Power 32 equiv. It will easily fly slower if you move the CG rearward, without adding weight. I fly mine with a Power 32 and 3S 4000ma pack. I push the pack rearward til there is only enough in the battery bay to strap the end down.

bigdog5332

i know that i can get 2 2s 5000s in but they have to hag back in that little opening and i think they might be a little to heavy

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

Well, my third Ultra Stick was destroyed a couple of weeks ago due to a midair when someone ran into the back of it. His plane landed with a few scratches and a broken prop, but the Stick was shredded.

This was my last Ultra Stick I think - the first two failed when the wing pulled off the airframe. The last one was set up for flaps, crow, etc., using 6 servos and an AR7000 receiver. I never really got used to flying it, and I think this is my last post here.

Good Luck to all you Sticky's !!...Chris

dugmar

Sorry to dig up this dinosaur of a thread. Have to share this though, I am on my 2nd Ultra Stick 25e and on my second one with a pretty badly warped wing. Do you guys recommend I break out the heat gun or contact Horizon? I haven't flown this one yet, but the last one was so bad that I required a TON of trim to get it to fly straight.

thanks,

Doug

mickvk

My Feedback: (1)

if you bought it recently and it's warped, I would contact horizon. If you've had it stored, I would work on straightening or replacing.