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  1. #901
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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz,

    Any possibility that you could post some photos as it sure seems that the construction of your
    Predator is very different from the original. You can see, from the first few pages of this build
    thread, that the hatch I made was in the perfect place as it did not compromise the fuselage
    structure at all. Basically, the hatch needs to be placed so as to be able to expose the interior
    of where the wing root is attached to the fuselage with the wing tube.
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  2. #902

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    will you be able to see the places where there is covering only?
    i can barely see the spots myself and only know by touch
    anyway ill see if i can get a camera 
    i dont own one (see no use)
    ill ask me sister (out of town and in college) [&:]
    ill post as soon as i can

  3. #903

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz - You can see the inside of the fuselage from the front top hatch - use a flashlight if you need to. There will probably be several places where the bottom of the fuselage has square cutouts in the balsa to save weight.

  4. #904

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    yes ive done that and run a wire to see if theyre actually balsa or not
    but, how do i get them on camera?

  5. #905
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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B


    ORIGINAL: Samz

    yes ive done that and run a wire to see if theyre actually balsa or not
    but, how do i get them on camera?
    I'm just trying to figure out how different the "new" design Predator is from the original.
    Does yours look like the one in this thread? (all balsa construction)
    Is the front hatch interior and the rear motor hatch interior the same as the original?
    Is the wing root and the wing tube basically the same as the original?
    Is the landing gear attached to the fuselage the same as the original?
    Photos of these areas will be helpfull.

  6. #906

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B


    ORIGINAL: papajeff


    ORIGINAL: Samz

    yes ive done that and run a wire to see if theyre actually balsa or not
    but, how do i get them on camera?
    I'm just trying to figure out how different the "new" design Predator is from the original.
    Does yours look like the one in this thread? (all balsa construction)
    Is the front hatch interior and the rear motor hatch interior the same as the original?
    Is the wing root and the wing tube basically the same as the original?
    Is the landing gear attached to the fuselage the same as the original?
    Photos of these areas will be helpfull.
    everything is the same
    except for the fact there are holes in the bottom of the fuse
    in your pictures the fuse is a solid balsa right?
    well mine has like holes to (i guess) lighten it up


  7. #907

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B


    here ya goes the reddish areas are the holes and the blue is where the tail is suppose to go
    not very good at piknic but it sould give you a basic idea of where the holes are
    (*done!)

  8. #908

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz - based on your photos, you need to use the opening just forward of where the gear mounts - that one is level with the point at which the wings attach. With that opening, you can get to the place where you would make some sort of attachment (see Papa J's earlier build section), which would allow you to attach and detach the wings, as well as connect/disconnect the servo extensions for the ailerons.

    I did the same thing on mine. To hold the wings on, I used wall anchors - the ones that expand when you tighten them up. I used the smallest ones I could find, drilled the correct size hole in the inner face of the wing root, put them in and then tightened them up until the anchors expanded, permanently mounting it into the wing root. I then made matching holes in the fuse, and now use nylon bolts through those holes and into the anchors in the wing root. You only need one anchor for each wing. Of course, there's lots of other ways you can attach the wings, too.

    Works for me! Hope this helps...Chris

  9. #909

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    sooo just cut out the covering and make a door for it from other wood?

  10. #910
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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz,

    Chris is totally correct as to where and how to place your hatch. Since the original was all balsa sheeted,
    the cutout piece was used as the hatch door. For your version, cut out the covering, as Chris stated, and
    then make a door out of some balsa sheeting and you have your hatch.

  11. #911

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    alrighty thanks papa and chris


  12. #912

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    hmmm
    instead of cutting a big hole for a hatch
    do you think captain randy's idea for rubber bands under the wings will keep it stable? post #714
    i dont wanna do something im going to regret (like huge hole in fuse)
    and also having second thoughts on a motor and need experienced help
    will the optima 300 brushless 2208-1100kv work? also does the motor have 128W like it says on the chart at the bottom of the page or is it 65W like it says on the title description
    im not at all good with all the electrically stuff
    please answer asap (school starts next week)

  13. #913
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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz,

    Just for compairson, I plan to use the HobbyPartz Monster Power 32 at 700wattsor 46 outrunner motor
    at 800watts. http://www.hobbypartz.com/mopose.html You will need to get a motor that is close to
    these or the E-flite outrunners are also a good choice.

    If your fuselage, on the new version of the Predator,is constructed of a framework with open spaces
    and the covering then is applied to the entire framework; then you can just make a hatch door for one
    of the cut out areas (only if the placement of the cut out area is proper for access to the wing attachment
    screw) which will only cover one of the cut out spaces that you have removed the covering from. In this
    manner, you will not compromise the structure of the fuselage at all. I hope that you get what I mean.

  14. #914

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    does kv or watts measrure the power of the motor?
    and also what i meant by my previous post was to just hold the wings together with rubberbands outside and under the fuse
    i dont want to cut a hole when i can just go with another quite more simpler idea
    ill probably also have to get alot stronger rod also

  15. #915

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    aha!
    i just found the ups and downs to motor power 
    with a more reasoned choice...
    how about the optima 400 brushless 920kv 140W

  16. #916
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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Samz,

    Give the rubberband method a try as you know that it has worked for other guys. Again, with your motor
    choice, you need to have a motor that will give you around 150 watts per pound, just to play it safe. It is
    always better to have 25% or so extra power. Motor Kv is important, but the wattage value is the better
    manner to determine power and again it is always best to test your power set up with a watt meter.
    then, and only then, will you know the exact power capability of your plane.

  17. #917

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Repainted my Predator and added steerable nose wheel very simple set up cost $4.00 and took 15 min to install.
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  18. #918

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    alpha 370 1200kv 225W better?


  19. #919

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    and also looking at pappy's predator,
    why is everyone using battery-esc extensions instead of esc-motor?
    im new to rc planes completely but from research everyone says battery-esc can kill the esc over time?
    anyways i dont know which to extend and i also dont know how XP

  20. #920

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    I was told the same thing extend the motor wires not the battery wires but as you can see I didn't listen and my set up worked well for me. I guess you have to like flying this sort of plane to enjoy flying it just not my cup of tea sets in the garage collecting dust most the time after Sundays flight I took the motor and speed controller out and hung it back up to collect more dust if anyone in the Sacramento area that might want to trade it for a ep warbird type pm me.

  21. #921

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Hi papa john, sorry I have one more question about my predator than i'll get out of your hair. How do i get my battery to connect with my motor considering that is about 3 feet from the front to the back? Thanks in advance!



  22. #922

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Hi papa john, sorry I have one more question about my predator than i'll get out of your hair. How do i get my battery to connect with my motor considering that is about 3 feet from the front to the back? Thanks in advance!


  23. #923

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    You just need to make an extension lead - presumable a Deans male to female, of the correct length. Use reasonably thick wire, say 12ga.

    Hope this helps...Chris

  24. #924

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    How would i make an extension lead???

  25. #925

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    RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B

    Assuming that your battery has a female Deans on it, and the ESC has a male Deans plug, you need to solder a male and female on the opposite ends of two pieces of 12ga wire the correct length to bridge the gap. If you're not familiar with doing this kind of thing, your local hobby shop will be able to help you.


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