Thanks for reply re spinner.
If anyone is interested , I found another at ...
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Thanks for reply re spinner.
If anyone is interested , I found another at ...
Just a rudder/nosewheel question, does the control cable to the rudder run inside the small white tube along the centerline of the fuselage then z bent for connection to the rudder control arm or is that tube for something else and the rudder control cable run direct brom the servo to the connection of the rudder z bar? Sorry if it silly but I'm at that level and trying to gain ground.
Additionally, the local hobby shop owner has told me to put the ESC back by the engine, that the weight is nominal. It seems that that is such a long arm, even for a small weight, behind the CG point that maybe it might be better to place it up front with the receiver and run 14 gage wires back to the motor. Any input on that would be appreciated.
The small white tube is for the Antenna 72mHz et al IMHO
I'm using a 2.4 AR7000 DSM2 RX so I dont care about the small white tube !
YES I am also worried about any extra weight behind the CG.
I am worried about the large metal Spinner that I just ordered too !
1.5 oz more WAAAY back there !
Where are the light weight plastic 3 blade 2.25" dia spinners ?
I have a Polaris which has the motor waaaay behind the CG.
Plus the height of the tail, plus the forward position of the motor.
It's AT LEAST as far away as the MG-9
I placed my Polaris ESC up front and ran LONG wires TO the motor
from well in front of the CG back to the motor.
I have had NO PROBLEMS with motor controls doing it that way.
In BOTH cases I used some heavy Silicon wire from HC to make my extensions.
I have tested the Motor as I've installed it on the MQ-9 and it seems to work just fine.
I received my MG servos today so I SHOULD be able to test fly by this weekend.
C U L8r
Thanks, I purchased a 2.4 as well, forgot all about an antenna.
My wings have evidence of mounting holes for "External Stores" .
I can see then thru the covering. two on each side.
However, I did not received ANY Racks, Rockets, Missiles or Bombs with my kit.
Not a biggy. just wondering
The external stores are purchased seperately. Supposed to be hellfire missles but, look more like AIM-7s to me.
Q: I have installed the servos for the flaps and the airleons. When actuated they seem to flex a lot. They are mounted with double sided tape. Is this normal or have I possiblely done something wrong? Is there a better way to mount them than double sided tape?
PT is right about the missle set being an extra item which is available at ;http://www.nitroplanes.com/mq9.html
PT, there are several ways to mount aileron & flap servos in the wing and it basically depends on the type
of wing that your model has. With the thin wings of the Reaper and the plastic servo pocket covers that
are provided, I decided to mount the servos to the covers as shown in the photos below. An alternative
is to mount the servos in the same manner, but in the wing pocket. With my method, to replace a servo
is real easy and that is why I mounted them in the cover.
OK, I see you are using hot glue. My servos are mounted in the pocket with double sided tape only at this time. They flex a lot when actuated which does not look promising. I was wondering if this is an indication that the airleons and flaps are too hard in their movement or if the double sided tape is weak in it's application. I think I will go back and seal them in additionally with hot glue and see if that strengthens the mount.
When I mounted the airleons and flaps I did not leave a lot of space between the wing and the control surfaces, is there a rule of thumb for that?
Looking at your push/pull tubes I noticed the retaining bands, my kit did not come with any. Is that an addition you made or did I just not get them?
Since I used the plasticclevis, I take a little length of fuel tubing and place it so that it can not
open unexpectedly, as shown in the photos. It's just a little extra protection.
When your servos aremounted within the servo pockets, double sided tape can be used to get
the proper position, but it is always best to use a little hot melt glue to make sure that they do not
move or flex when they are activated. Some guys use epoxy or CA glue, but it is difficult to remove
them if there is a future problem. Another trick is to wrap the servo case with masking tape and
then glue or epoxy them in. If removal is necessary, just use a razor knife and cut the tape to get
the servo out.
If you notice in the photos, my flaps and/or alierons are hinged very close to the wing edge because
a large gap serves only to cause a disruption of the airflow over the wing. Hope that this helps.
Thanks boss, thats what I needed...
Hot melt is what I used.
You have to prep and be ready before sticking them in.
removal might be difficult , although ...
I always figured I could loosen them by heating from the Covering Side, ya know !
I have mine set up for Flaps and CROW with ailerons too !
Screw the spring Nose gear ! who cares.
Wind has been blowing all weekend so far ! ok just Fri and Sat :-( sigh .....
Thansk Guys... We'll see how it turns out.
This is an awesome plane that I plane to use as my UAV after i get a flight report back from afriendwho bought one. Anyway I have looked and cannot find a electric 3 blade aluminum spinner for the 10x6-11x6 prop, anyone knowwhereI can get one for an electric motor? Thanks
Never! expect the crash, Just be ready for it! - Tkopper
Try hobbyking, I think i saw some on their website
Finally tried mine at the Fantastic Wenatchee Red Apple Flyers Field last weekend.
Winds were calm and the runways are 600' long. Grass and Asphalt
I had it balanced RIGHT where the plans say.
I had placed a small bead of hot melt on the CG recommended.
Take off was uneventful and a couple of passes and turns later I was several mistakes high.
I usually WRING out a plane at low speed from here PRIOR to landing.
So I came back on the power and all seemed well then I hit the flaps.
Immediate Left Tip Stall ! Flaps OFF , attempt to recover ...
I was almost FLAT by the time it HIT THE GROUND !
Wings not damaged.
Rear of Fuse Not damaged beyond loose sub rudder and some cracks.
Mid fuse has two loose Wing holders and totally screwed up THRU TUBE.
BTW the Metal wing rod was bent too.
Front of fuse is pretty messed up and the Camera Pod & swivel are extra bad.
But as many observers said ...
it looked like a TOTAL and yet was surprisingly "Together".
I thought the same, considering the eggshell quality of the fiberglass fuse.
ALL the Glider Guys who were there for the Large Scale Aero Tow, as I was, said ...
The CG on "THAT" kind of wing is very very touchy.
AKA dual tapered, High aspect ratio and THIN foiled.
That wing plan & foil are just asking for tip stalls.
It is similar to my Nitro Salto which is very touchy and a tip staller, ya know !
I may repair it enough to allow a Hang Up in the Grand Kids Room or my shop ...
but I'm Not Flying it any more !!!
Cest la Vie !
recommendation: KEEP YOUR SPEED UP with this one !
I ordered one and it should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to it !
You were totally correct with your comments on the flying charactistics of the Reaper. I am really sorry
to hear about your crash, but once you have made all the necessary repairs you should at least consider
flying it again. Now that you know to keep the speed up, fly those long &skinny wings knowing the tip stall
characteristic, fly in a very SCALE like manner with easy turns and only deploy the flaps about 15% on low
and 25% on full. With this in mind, you should be able to enjoy flying your Reaper with confidence.
Take a look at the Predator video which might help; Predator UAV Testing Video (9meg)
Fun Video - Nice !
How about one for the Reaper ?
I am in process of building my first ever plan. It just happens to be the MQ9.
Itook the liberty of re-engineering how the wings are attached. Instead of using the tabs and screws I inserted a collar in the wing and use the set screw to anchor in place. Collars are epoxied into end of wing.
I also replaced the steel rod with a carbon fiber rod and it saves 100 gm in weight.
Here are some pictures.
I will add more as I complete tasks.
This build is quite fun. It will take me quite a while as I am a newbie and working at it quite slowly. I will not fly until i learn on something that I don't care about crashing.
Comments are very welcome.
I just noticed that I uploaded what were earlier pictures of my planned engineering change.
Here are the current pictures plus the hex tool for locking collars to rod.
BTW:my biggest reason for the use of the collars is that it should make it easier to dissassemble.
Iwill use one of the tabs to keep wing from torquing and it will be epoxied into wing. I think one should be enough.
Good idea with your removeable wing mod. I would suggest that you use both of the metal
allignment tabs on the wing root as the leading and trailing edges of the wings need to be
properly alligned against the fuselage. Also, If it is possible for you to find some cap head
allen bolts with the same thread size as the collar set screw and a length that puts the cap
head parallel to the outer wing surface, it might be a much better method to tighten the wing
tube into the collar. Just a thought to consider.
I already installed longer set screws. I might get even longer ones; 15 cents here and there adds up to real money. :-)
I have both the Predator 63" and the Reaper 98" models. I am building both simultaneously. As these are my first "push" planes, I am not sure which electronics and motor combination to outfit either model. Are there certain motors and ESC's designed for "push" thrust? Or can I simply reverse the polarity on the motor? Will this ruin the ESC? Or is it as simple as buying an inverted prop?
I intend to outfit ($) the Predator first, fly it, then sink ($$$) the majority of my resourses into the larger Reaper. With this in mind, I went "economy" and purchased a Exceed 6 channel G Radio (Nitro) and a 7 channel Receiver; An Esky brushless 25A ESC (Nitro); an EON Xlit 3s 11.1v 2100mah Lipo(Tower Hobbies) battery; Four HS 3004 servo's; and Alpha 400 (3500kv) brushless motor (Nitro). I am concerned that the motor might tax the ESC beyond its limits, although specs say I am just inside the amperage draw. What size prop should I use if I can get by with this electronic package?
Any knowledgable advise on the electronic, motor and prop combination for the Reaper is certainly welcome. I will be buying another Radio (Futuba's new S Bus system, etc.) and will be peaking the limits in battery (4000mah) for the sole purpose of keeping this plane aloft as looong as possible.
The longer the better, and the sky is the limit. I am obviously not looking for a power consuming combination, but quite the opposite...still, I must be able to get this 98" Reaper off the runway and as high as a speck... Again, I welcome any knowledgable advise.
Ok, I have studied both Papa Jacks threads, Predator & Reaper and found several other sourses of info. I found out that that the 3500kv motor was too fast to slap on the Predator, otherwise I was on track. Yet, could I not put in a 3>1 gearbox in place of the 1" nylon spacers and then run the prop at a more resonable 1166kv?
Furthermore, I have now decided to purchase a Spectrum TX RX for the Reaper. Thanks for that advise...
I will be recording and posting the progress during construction, and will video the maiden flights of both planes. I plan on experimenting along the way (as with the gearbox). Anyone following this thread, please send me suggestions. And if you see an obvious errror on my part (like the gearbox experiment) Please inform me!
You are way ahead of me on issues that I have not invesigated as yet.
I need Epoxy Tech Support!
Here is what I am trying to figures out: On MQ9 tail we have this 3" pipe that needs to be securly anchored inside the tail assembly. There is a 1/4" hole that needs epoxy on the inside.
How do you, no, what is the method one uses to inject the epoxy to hold the rod? If I put it on rod then push it in hole the hole will wipe it clean.
I know somebody has a trick but will they tell me?
I see 2 possibilities:
A) Drill a offset hole to inject epoxy after rod has been put in place.
B) Inject a bunch of epoxy into hole then puh in rod and hold in vertical position hoping that epoxy flows around the rod.