E-Flite Beaver
07-23-2010, 07:34 PM
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E-Flite Beaver
Just finished up the E-Flite Beaver. Nice plane and a very easy build. Added a Tru-Turn spinner along with Robart wheels. Using the Power 25 motor. The pilot is from Cermark.
09-12-2010, 12:54 PM
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RE: E-Flite Beaver
I've just bought a second hand one of these today. It looks to be in perfect condition except for one strut which is broken inside the covering. Are the struts for show or are they needed for strength ?
I intend to buy a couple of HS225s for the tail but the wing is already full of Turnigy 1160A servos (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7562). I wonder if these are up to the job as I don't need to be unnecessarily spending extra money ?
I intend to buy a couple of HS225s for the tail but the wing is already full of Turnigy 1160A servos (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7562). I wonder if these are up to the job as I don't need to be unnecessarily spending extra money ?
09-16-2010, 11:30 AM
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RE: E-Flite Beaver
ORIGINAL: Hellcat716
Wing struts are necessary for support.
Wing struts are necessary for support.
08-03-2011, 09:59 PM
#5
Senior Member
RE: E-Flite Beaver
DHC-2 Beaver 25e ARF EFL4525
Evidently there are some changes/bugs/QC issues that have crept into this ARF since the "Easy Build" was posted.
1. Esc mounting "box" needs to be shortened by the thickness of the ESC, (About 1/2") in order to clear the false radial engine.
2. Using the specified Eflite 32 motor, the motor mount is short by about 3mm.
I used 3mm "Pop Rivet" washers to get the proper prop to cowl clearance.
3. The diameter of the false engine is slightly too large to permit proper fit in the cowl.
The false engine plastic is very thin towards the rear and junction of the cylinders, making relief for air flow difficult.
Orientation of the cylinders is critical, in order to permit access to the cowl mounting bolts with a ball driver.
4. Two of four cowl mounting tabs were glued "crooked", causing the glue to crack when the cowl was mounted to the fuselage.
5. Window cutouts were undersize for the supplied windows and slightly ragged, with grey paint spattered on the edge.
Extensive and time consuming custom filing, sanding, etc. was required to get the windows to fit.
7. Tail assembly
Control horns for the Rudder and Tail Wheel were composite plastic/metal hub, and identical. (Instructions call for different metal horns)
The Rudder vertical shaft was too long to permit control horn removal. This creates a problem in setting the Rudder linkage correctly,
due to lack of clearance between shaft and tailwheel mounting bracket.) The plastic clevises also contribute to the problem.
Correct the length before attaching the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder assembly, or you will be sorry!
The tailwheel mounting bracket and the linkage have interference problems that require careful grinding on the mounting bracket and the
plywood area behind the bracket. Again the plastic clevis is part of the problem.
The tailwheel actuating rod required slight bends at the rear and front to reduce binding and help provide clearance.
Part of this is due to where the outer tube is located at each end.
I'd suggest that collars and somewhat weak springs be used at the servo, instead of the setscrew for the tailwheel linkage rod.
8. Miscellaneous
The tail cone mounting screws were long enough to also cause clearance problems with the Rudder linkage. I had to replace with shorter screws.
Wing to horizontal stabilizer alignment - - - the book ignores the fact that the wing has dihedral, making things quite difficult to properly align.
About all you can do is mark the wing trailing edge at the length of the horizontal stabilizer, stretch a black string between the marked points, and use it for reference.
Evidently there are some changes/bugs/QC issues that have crept into this ARF since the "Easy Build" was posted.
1. Esc mounting "box" needs to be shortened by the thickness of the ESC, (About 1/2") in order to clear the false radial engine.
2. Using the specified Eflite 32 motor, the motor mount is short by about 3mm.
I used 3mm "Pop Rivet" washers to get the proper prop to cowl clearance.
3. The diameter of the false engine is slightly too large to permit proper fit in the cowl.
The false engine plastic is very thin towards the rear and junction of the cylinders, making relief for air flow difficult.
Orientation of the cylinders is critical, in order to permit access to the cowl mounting bolts with a ball driver.
4. Two of four cowl mounting tabs were glued "crooked", causing the glue to crack when the cowl was mounted to the fuselage.
5. Window cutouts were undersize for the supplied windows and slightly ragged, with grey paint spattered on the edge.
Extensive and time consuming custom filing, sanding, etc. was required to get the windows to fit.
7. Tail assembly
Control horns for the Rudder and Tail Wheel were composite plastic/metal hub, and identical. (Instructions call for different metal horns)
The Rudder vertical shaft was too long to permit control horn removal. This creates a problem in setting the Rudder linkage correctly,
due to lack of clearance between shaft and tailwheel mounting bracket.) The plastic clevises also contribute to the problem.
Correct the length before attaching the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder assembly, or you will be sorry!
The tailwheel mounting bracket and the linkage have interference problems that require careful grinding on the mounting bracket and the
plywood area behind the bracket. Again the plastic clevis is part of the problem.
The tailwheel actuating rod required slight bends at the rear and front to reduce binding and help provide clearance.
Part of this is due to where the outer tube is located at each end.
I'd suggest that collars and somewhat weak springs be used at the servo, instead of the setscrew for the tailwheel linkage rod.
8. Miscellaneous
The tail cone mounting screws were long enough to also cause clearance problems with the Rudder linkage. I had to replace with shorter screws.
Wing to horizontal stabilizer alignment - - - the book ignores the fact that the wing has dihedral, making things quite difficult to properly align.
About all you can do is mark the wing trailing edge at the length of the horizontal stabilizer, stretch a black string between the marked points, and use it for reference.
08-03-2011, 10:11 PM
#6
Senior Member
RE: E-Flite Beaver
HH DHC-2 Beaver 25e ARF EFL4525
Evidently there are some changes/bugs/QC issues that have crept into this ARF since the "Easy Build" was posted.
1. Esc mounting "box" needs to be shortened by the thickness of the ESC, (About 1/2") in order to clear the false radial engine.
2. Using the specified Eflite 32 motor, the motor mount is short by about 3mm.
I used 3mm "Pop Rivet" washers to get the proper prop to cowl clearance.
3. The diameter of the false engine is slightly too large to permit proper fit in the cowl without modifications.
The false engine plastic is very thin towards the rear and junction of the cylinders, making relief work for air flow difficult.
Orientation of the cylinders is critical, in order to permit access to the cowl mounting bolts with a ball driver. (Not mentioned in the manual.)
4. Two of four cowl mounting tabs were glued "crooked", causing the glue to crack when the cowl was first mounted to the fuselage.
5. Window cutouts were undersize for the supplied windows and slightly ragged, with grey paint spattered on the edge.
Extensive and time consuming custom filing, sanding, etc. was required to get the windows to fit properly.
7. Tail assembly
Control horns for the Rudder and Tail Wheel were composite plastic/metal hub, and identical. (Instructions call for different metal horns)
The Rudder vertical shaft was too long to permit control horn removal. This creates a problem in setting the Rudder linkage correctly,
due to lack of clearance between shaft and tailwheel mounting bracket.) The plastic clevises and composite horns also contribute to the problem.
Correct the length before attaching the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder assembly, or you will be sorry!
The tailwheel mounting bracket and the linkage have interference problems that require careful grinding on the mounting bracket and the
plywood area behind the bracket. Again the plastic clevis diameter is part of the problem.
The tailwheel actuating rod required slight bends at the rear and front to reduce binding and help provide clearance.
Part of this is due to where the linkage outer tube is located at each end. (Servos used were those specified.)
I'd suggest that collars and somewhat weak springs be used at the servo, instead of the setscrew for the tailwheel linkage rod.
8. Miscellaneous
The tail cone mounting screws were long enough to also cause clearance problems with the Rudder linkage. I had to replace with shorter screws on the left side.
Wing to horizontal stabilizer alignment - - - the book ignores the fact that the wing has dihedral, making things quite difficult to properly align.
About all you can do is mark the wing trailing edge at the length of the horizontal stabilizer, stretch a black string between the marked points, and use it for reference.
Evidently there are some changes/bugs/QC issues that have crept into this ARF since the "Easy Build" was posted.
1. Esc mounting "box" needs to be shortened by the thickness of the ESC, (About 1/2") in order to clear the false radial engine.
2. Using the specified Eflite 32 motor, the motor mount is short by about 3mm.
I used 3mm "Pop Rivet" washers to get the proper prop to cowl clearance.
3. The diameter of the false engine is slightly too large to permit proper fit in the cowl without modifications.
The false engine plastic is very thin towards the rear and junction of the cylinders, making relief work for air flow difficult.
Orientation of the cylinders is critical, in order to permit access to the cowl mounting bolts with a ball driver. (Not mentioned in the manual.)
4. Two of four cowl mounting tabs were glued "crooked", causing the glue to crack when the cowl was first mounted to the fuselage.
5. Window cutouts were undersize for the supplied windows and slightly ragged, with grey paint spattered on the edge.
Extensive and time consuming custom filing, sanding, etc. was required to get the windows to fit properly.
7. Tail assembly
Control horns for the Rudder and Tail Wheel were composite plastic/metal hub, and identical. (Instructions call for different metal horns)
The Rudder vertical shaft was too long to permit control horn removal. This creates a problem in setting the Rudder linkage correctly,
due to lack of clearance between shaft and tailwheel mounting bracket.) The plastic clevises and composite horns also contribute to the problem.
Correct the length before attaching the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder assembly, or you will be sorry!
The tailwheel mounting bracket and the linkage have interference problems that require careful grinding on the mounting bracket and the
plywood area behind the bracket. Again the plastic clevis diameter is part of the problem.
The tailwheel actuating rod required slight bends at the rear and front to reduce binding and help provide clearance.
Part of this is due to where the linkage outer tube is located at each end. (Servos used were those specified.)
I'd suggest that collars and somewhat weak springs be used at the servo, instead of the setscrew for the tailwheel linkage rod.
8. Miscellaneous
The tail cone mounting screws were long enough to also cause clearance problems with the Rudder linkage. I had to replace with shorter screws on the left side.
Wing to horizontal stabilizer alignment - - - the book ignores the fact that the wing has dihedral, making things quite difficult to properly align.
About all you can do is mark the wing trailing edge at the length of the horizontal stabilizer, stretch a black string between the marked points, and use it for reference.
06-14-2013, 07:02 AM
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RE: E-Flite Beaver
Started on my Beaver this week. Nice kit except both Aileron's had cracked plastic and one is missing pieces. Haven't heard back from Horizon yet, but wondered if anyone has found a material to cover the Aileron's with. The corrugated look is neet but not when broken. Any ideas?
Thanks much!!!
Thanks much!!!
06-14-2013, 08:41 AM
#8
Senior Member
RE: E-Flite Beaver
The corrugated plastic is brittle and there isn't any covering underneath (on mine, anyway).
I ended up using some white electrical tape over a couple of cracks, at least until I end up replacing the corrugated plastic with covering.
Dry fit the tail assembly, and make sure that there isn't any interference problems with the linkage, horns, and the rear mounting bracket.
The vertical rudder linkage rod and or the rear wheel rod may need to be shorter, in order to allow easy assembly and adjustment.
When things are just right, You can slide out the linkage rod from the servo, in order to adjust things.
I ended up using some white electrical tape over a couple of cracks, at least until I end up replacing the corrugated plastic with covering.
Dry fit the tail assembly, and make sure that there isn't any interference problems with the linkage, horns, and the rear mounting bracket.
The vertical rudder linkage rod and or the rear wheel rod may need to be shorter, in order to allow easy assembly and adjustment.
When things are just right, You can slide out the linkage rod from the servo, in order to adjust things.
