Demon

I just ordered the Flying Styro P-40N from Hobby Lobby (the complete package plus an extra battery pack).

This will be my second electric model in 27 years of flying R/C. My first attempt at electrics was a Kyosho Zero from Tower Hobbies about 10 years ago. That one didn't work well for me, and it ended up with an OS.15FP under the hood.

I have lots of experience flying small, high performance scale models (I'm a scale combat fanatic), but not a heck of a lot of experience with setting up electrics.

So, I'm open for advice. Anyone care to enlighten me of the potential pitfalls and how to avoid them?

Thanks,
D

stevensaero

Darin,

Welcome back to e-flight. My first e-plane was the Kyosho Zero as well. Up until that point I had only worked with 1/2A models. Discouraged with the lack of performance I tossed it out. Now look at where we have come. I missed the opportunity to buy another zero from MEC... called a couple of months too late. One of these days I'll find another kit (dusty as it may be) and power it accordingly.

Poke around for advice on these forums you won't be dissapointed.

I don't have any first hand experience with the P40 but the numbers posted look about right for thier intended power system. It is a beautiful model.

-Bill

BykrDan

I don't think you'll be disappointed with a Flying Styro kit - I have two, and am very happy with them.

They look delicate (and they are, in a way) but they're very light, so landings aren't that hard.

I don't have the P-40; I have the Rare Bear. About the only modifcation I've made, besides crash repair, is to power it with Lithium-Polymer cells, and wow - they are unbelievable! I can't fly long enough to run them down, and the plane almost hovers (I think it would hover, without all the extra epoxy I have holding the plane together).

I did put a piece of clear packing tape on the bottom to protect from landing on rough surfaces - it does that, but then the edges of the tape pick up little bits of grass and such. It's a trade-off. Monokote trim may have been a better choice.

Also, the builder (I have the plane second-hand) put fiberglass packing tape under the wings, which has probably saved them some in one of my less than perfect landings...

Dan.

Greg Covey

Hi Darin,

I am also building the P-40 ARF from Hobby Lobby. Check out my thread next week that i'll start in the Foamies forum.

The Flying Styro kits are nice indeed. The stock Speed 300 motor will fly the model just fine. You can provide additional capability by using a 3-cell Kokam 1500mAh Lithium pack or by upgrading the motor to a Speed 280BB.

The ultimate motor upgrade would be to replace the Speed 300 motor with a Razor 400 brushless motor and controller. This, of course, costs more money but would provide unlimited capability in the little scale Warhawk.

Regards.

Demon

Thanks a million for the advice guys!

I got the first box of stuff today (the P-40 itself was just shipped today), and got to work getting the gear set up. Now, it came with NO instructions for how to set up the motor/gearbox, nor was any kind of wiring diagram supplied.

The wiring is done and tested, but the motor/gearbox is a big question mark:
How is the drive gear supposed to mount onto the shaft of the Graupner Speed 300 motor's shaft?

The shaft has splines, but the drive gear slips on and off easily (NO resitance), and it does not engage the shaft splines at all (spins easily).

Is the supplied drive gear's ID too big?
Or, is the drive gear supposed to be glued or soldered to the shaft somehow?

Thanks,
D

Demon

Update:
I called Hobby Lobby today to find out the deal on that drive gear: it is supposed to be glued onto the shaft with the supplied tiny tube of green LocTite.

I never would have guessed that. In fact, I thought that unmarked, tiny tube of green stuff was lubricant - GOOD THING I DIDN'T "LUBE" ANYTHING WITH IT! [X(]

Ben at Hobby Lobby was very helpful. But, a simple set of instructions would have saved me the time of figuring out for myself how to rig the electronics, the time of waiting until they were open again to call for assistance AND the cost of the call (no toll-free number).

The saga continues when the P-40 arrives "early next week"...

D

Greg Covey

Darin,

Although the European kits are top notch in design and construction, the two weak points with them has always been with instructions and with gearbox assembly. The pinion gear bored hole is often the wrong size for the selected motor.

I typically use medium or thick CA to lock the pinion gear onto the motor shaft. I then dab a little CA Kicker onto the joint to make it rock hard within seconds. The medium or thick CA is often used to fill gaps so it works great in between the motor shaft and pinion hole.

Also, be sure to sand or score the motor shaft and pinion hole first. This helps the CA (or Locktite) to get a better hold.

Regards.

Greg Covey

Darin,

I was curious enough to open my kit and tested the pinion gear on the Speed 300 motor shaft.

In my case, the pinion gear hole is small enough that i'll have to tap it onto the motor shaft. When doing this, always place the other end of the motor shaft on a hard metal surface.

It is odd that we have such a difference in pinion gear hole size. I'll consult with Hobby Lobby on Monday to see what is going on.

Demon

Thanks Greg!
But, I've already done what Ben @ HL suggested and used the LocTite to hold the drive gear onto the shaft. The shaft is splined, and the gear is now REALLY on there with the LocTite. If that joint should fail in the future, I'll clean off the LocTite and use CA.

It is kind of odd that there is a difference in either the shaft OD, the gear ID or possibly both. But, I'd bet there's enough manufacturing tolorance to account for your tight gear and my loose gear.

I re-read my posts and there's one thing I'd like to make clear here: I am having fun with this, and the quality of the stuff I've recieved so far is top notch. The only real problem is with my own lack of experience in working with unfamiliar componants without instructions.

Greg,
When you talk to HL on Monday, please mention that a simple set of instructions and a simple wiring schematic would go a LONG way toward helping folks like me successfully get into electrics.

I'm really looking forward to your P-40 thread!
D

Greg Covey

Darin,

I started my P-40 thread [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1183538/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1183577]here[/link] in the Foamies forum so we can continue our discussion there.

It's funny but no sooner did I remark about the typical poor instructions in some of these European kits than this P-40 kit from Flying Styro proved me wrong.

I think you'll be quite happy with the instruction set on this model. They even include the pinion mounting on the motor.

Regards.

Demon

COOL!

I hope to see the box with the P-40 on my front step when I get home from work tonight. I can't wait!

FWIW, I plan on painting camo the upper surfaces with a light dusting of Tamiya Dark Earth. (Yeah, I know Ns didn't wear Dark Green/Dark Earth camo in the CBI - I just want mine to be a little different without going with the white tail & LEs of the South Pacific Ns). I already have the masking patterns laid out. They just need to be matched to the plane, applied and the paint shot on.

Man, I haven't been this fired up about a new project in a VERY looooooong time.

D