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Estarter Build Help

Old 11-20-2005, 05:53 PM
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Hellion179
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Default Estarter Build Help

Alright, I have the estarter with the 400. The manual says to insert the motor mount into the bottom slot, with the motor facing up. With this configuration, the plastic cowl(engine cover) will not fit. I sorta got ahead of myself on the build and already glued the mount in. With the cowl, I just cut it open a bit more to allow the motor to spin without binding on anything. Is there anything I could have done different?

Next problem, the props do not fit...No matter how hard I worked on it..it would not fit. I ended up having to get a piece of tiny sandpaper, roll it up, and sanding the hole. It barely fits on there now..What's the deal with that?

This is my very first plane. So I don't know how I'm supposed to set the prop up. THe way it is now, I have a nut behind the prop, and in front of the prop(they are actualy recessed into the prop), then in front of the prop I have two washers followed by the plastic spinner. Is this right?


All I can say so far is I'm very dissappointed in this build. I've flown a Raptor for a couple years now and its build was so much easier compared to this. I just hope that I'm doing all this right and that she'll fly :P Thanks for all the help.
Old 11-21-2005, 01:01 AM
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Time Pilot
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help

As I recall the instructions, yes, the 400 is supposed to go into the bottom slot, but there is an Estarter at the field I fly that has it mounted in the top hole. I don't know if the fit was any better though.

Yes, GWS does some weird things with the props. They assume you know about drilling or reaming them out. You'd think that they would supply props that fit the shaft....

There are different theories on how to put the nuts and washers on.

I put the nut on first followed by the washer then the prop and then the nut. This way, the nut on the outside tightens as the prop turns. The downside to this is that if you have a brake on your ESC, when the prop stops quickly, the prop can spin off. Therefore, some put the nut on first followed by the prop and then the washer and then the outside nut. Spinner always goes on last, of course.

If I felt my prop was in danger of spinning off, I would simply snug another nut against the last one that threaded on.

But, the downside of going nut, prop, washer, nut, is that if the outside nut loosens up for any reason, you will strip the indentation in the back of the prop which renders it useless. This happened to me, which is why I use the method I do. I've got over 50 hours on a Slow Stick, 10 hours on a Formosa, 30 hours on a GP BLT and 36 hours on my Estarter with this set up and never had a problem.
Old 11-21-2005, 10:04 AM
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help

I have a brushless motor in my E-starter now, but it started out with the 400 motor. The correct fit (at least for mine) was to use the upper hole for the motor stick. Some of the other motors require you to use the lower hole though, due to the design of the gearbox. The thing to do is to mock it up "dry" (no epoxy) and see which orientation fits better. If you've already glued yours in, you may be stuck. Unless you cut the motor stick flush with the firewall, and then get another motor stick to glue in to the top hole.

Yep, drill the props out. The shaft coming out of the gearbox is a bit larger in diameter than the prop holes, so you will have to drill them out. This is best done on a drill press so that the prop does not wobble.
Old 12-14-2005, 02:45 PM
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help

I hve been flying my estarter for 1 yr . I am using the upper mount , himax geared brushless motor and a castle 25 amp esc.
With a 2000 mah battery pack running the stock prop I can fly 25 minutes with aerobatics. The cowl was destroyed when it crashed
with the stock setup , not enough power ! but i found that the cowl from the park zone decathalon will fit with some modifiaction and can take a lot more abuse. The gws planes are pretty easy builds but they do have there quirks, its a good idea to test fit before gluing. If you hot glue the sticks in for the motor mount it will save the nose from serious damage in a front crash . The glue will let go before the foam will . I have not had much luck flying these planes stock , much better with lipos and brushless systems.
Cheap planes , slope gliders , re use electronics . Dont give up , this hobby is great .
Old 12-14-2005, 03:11 PM
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help


ORIGINAL: TAUMULLER

If you hot glue the sticks in for the motor mount it will save the nose from serious damage in a front crash . The glue will let go before the foam will.
Good idea with the stick mount. You've never had any problems with the stick coming loose?

Old 12-16-2005, 10:35 PM
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help

I HAVE NEVER HAD A STICK COME LOOSE IN FLIGHT. ON ROUGH LANDINGS YES , BUT THE NICE THING IS YOU JUST REGLUE IT . ANOTHER BONUS TO USING HOT GLUE IS , IF YOU HAVE A 12V TO 110 VOLT CONVERTOR , JUST PLUG INTO CAR LIGHTER AND PLUG THE GLUE GUN IN , MAKE SURE ITS LOW TEMP AND A MINI GUN, DRAWS LESS WATTS. WITH THIS SET UP YOU CAN DO QUICK FIELD REPAIRS . EPOXY WORKS BUT IT IS PERMAMENT , HOT GLUE YOU CAN SEPERATE IF NEEDED. HOT GLUE WORKS GOOD FOR MOST BUILDS I USE IT FOR EVERYTHING EXCEPT FUSALAGE ASSY.
Old 12-16-2005, 11:31 PM
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Default RE: Estarter Build Help

Early E Starters had the smaller motor with the smaller prop drive shaft. Grey plastic housing. Later ones use the 400 motor, bigger prop shaft, black plastic housing. Looks like you got the early prop for the smaller shaft. Go to the hobby shop and get the prop with the bigger shaft hole. Proper nut setup is to tighten a nut down to the end of the thread and tighten it good. Install the prop then two washers then the other nut. As said above, disconnect the brake. Also set the esc for slow start, makes it easier on the gears. Hope this helps.

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