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-----cub-----

Old 02-17-2007, 10:23 PM
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eastcoast
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Default -----cub-----

hey all i m new to this site and new to rc aircraft,so i decided to go and get the supper cub i've heard many good thing about it.i have the e-sky transmiter with clearveiwrc sim and i have been praticing on that for the last few months i have a few questions about the cub. I would like to find a site where i can buy hop ups for it and also would liek to know is there anything that i can apply to make the wing more resisdent to damage i put some tape around the leading edge but that don't seem like its going to work all that well .i havent even flown the plane yet because i just got it 2 days ago and its winter here and im not going to fly it untill the spring and would like to do some hop up before then,any info will be thankful
Old 02-17-2007, 10:31 PM
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j stumbler
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Default RE: -----cub-----

East,
The Super Cub is a very good beginner plane right out of the box. Fly it a few times, and get a good feel for the plane before you start making to many changes to it. There is not a lot available in the way of "direct" upgrades, but if you search the forums, you can find a lot of information on adding ailerons, flaps, brushless, lipos, and other goodies. As far as the wing goes, the Z foam is very durable. It will take more of a beating than you think. Best of all, most wing damage can be repaired with CA or hot glue.

I hope that helps,
J
[link=http://www.commonsenserc.com]Common Sense RC[/link]
Old 02-18-2007, 12:23 AM
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aeajr
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Default RE: -----cub-----

The super cub is very durable but it is NOT EPP. It is Zfoam. That is a different foam. Very good stuff!
Old 02-18-2007, 12:29 AM
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j stumbler
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Default RE: -----cub-----

Whoops. Thanks aeajr. I corrected my boo-boo.
Old 02-18-2007, 04:32 AM
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eastcoast
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Default RE: -----cub-----

do u know a good link where i can buy stuff for the cub i.e .. bigger wheels ,lights, etc?
thanks for the help i was really just inquiring about the hop ups, im very new to rc aircraft, when i got the package i tried to dis-charge the supplied batteries
but it did't discharge, well i ran the motor- WOT- for serval mins and its says the prop should come to a complete stop to discharge them,but after a fairly long time running it did't, so i went ahead and charged them up anyways will this do any damage to the batteries
Old 02-18-2007, 09:22 AM
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aeajr
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Default RE: -----cub-----

Your batteries will be fine. Running your motor wide open while the plane is stationarly can lead to over heating if you do it too much. The motor will not get enough cooling air and your amp draw will be higher than it would be in the air.

If you want to drain the packs, do it at 1/4 throttle, but there is no real need to do that. Just flying the plane will be fine.

I usually recommend that you do the first charge or two at 1/2C. For a 1000 mah pack that would be 500 mah. Then at 1C, then up to 1.5C. This helps to form the pack more gently. Not mandatory but it has served me well.

You can buy all kinds of things btt they are not specifically for that plane.

Larger wheels would be good if you are taking off from grass.

8 cell pack will give you more power with a little less endurance, maybe.

There are X port options for the plane, from HobbyZone and ParkZone

Since that is a 27 MHz system, in order to do any mods to the electroncis or the motor you will need to gut the plane and start over, but there is really no reason to do that. It has plenty of power, especially if you pu in the 8 cell pack.

BTW, there are dozens of Super Cubs from many makers, so you need to be specific that this is a HobbyZone Super Cub RTF or people will give you advice that does not match your plane.
Old 02-18-2007, 09:47 AM
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Default RE: -----cub-----

Check out the aritcles here:

[link=http://www.ampaviators.com/topiclist/index16.htm]Amp Aviator Super Cub Articles[/link]

There's a lot that can be done very simply to "ruggadize" the SC.
Old 02-18-2007, 10:01 AM
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eastcoast
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Default RE: -----cub-----

thnks aeajr i didnt run the battery wot for any lenth of time it was mostly at 1\4 -1\2 throttle for about 4-5 mins with short burst up to wot
so will any 8 cell do what is the max mah that the motor will withstand bear with me im a total newbie, lol im going from a nitro revo too a electric plane and the crossover is very new.ive been on many other fourms and this is by far the best for info.
Old 02-18-2007, 11:43 AM
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Default RE: -----cub-----

The capacity of the battery, in mah, has no bearing on what the motor can stand.

This may be helpful:
AMPS vs. VOLTS vs. C
By Ed Anderson
aeajr on the forums

This brief discussion is intended to clear up a few terms and concepts
around electricity as it applies to electric airplanes.

Think of electricity like water. Volts = pressure Amps = flow

Volts is like pounds per square inch, psi. Says nothing about how much
water is flowing, just how hard it is being pushed. You can have 100 psi
with zero water flow.

Amps is flow, like gallons per hour. You can have flow at low pressure and
you can have flow at high pressure.

Amp hours is how much flow can be sustained for how long. It is used as a
way of measuring how much electricity is in the battery. Like how many
gallons of gas in your tank. It is a capacity number. Says nothing about
flow or pressure, it is about capacity.

Amps and mili amps? We are just moving the decimal point around.

1 amp (short for ampere) = 1000 miliamps (mili means 1/1000 amps)

Examples

So a 7 cell NIMH or NICD pack provides 8.4V (pressure).

The motor will draw electricity from the pack at a certain flow rate, or
amps.

If you have a have a 650 mili amp hour pack, it can deliver a flow of .650
amps (650 miliamps) for one hour. If you draw it out faster, it
doesn't last as long. So your motor might pull 6.5 amps for 1/10 of an
hour, or about 6 minutes.

A 1100 mah pack has double the capacity of the 650 mah pack, so it should
last "about" twice as long.


What is C in relation to batteries?

C ratings are simply a way of talking about charge and discharge rates for
batteries.

1C, = 1 time the rated mah capacity of the battery. So if you charge your
650 mah pack at 1C, you charge it a 650 miliamps, or .650 amps.

1C on a 1100 pack would be 1.1 amps.

2 C on your 1100 pack would be 2.2 amps

Motor batteries are often rated in Discharge C and charge C.

So a 1100 mah pack (1.1 amp hour) might be rated for 10C discharge, so you
can pull 11 amps ( flow ) without damaging the battery.

Then it might be rated at 2C charge rate (flow), so you charge it at 2.2
amps (2200 mah)

How did I do? Things clearing up?

If you have a 500 mah pack - any kind - and it is rated at 16C that means it
can deliver 8 amps.

If you have a 1000 mah pack - any kind - and it is rated at 8C that means it
can deliver 8 amps.

If you have a 1000 mah pack - any kind - and it is rated at 12C that means
it can deliver 12 amps

If you have a 1500 mah pack - any kind - and it is rate at 8C that means it
can deliver 12 amps

If you have a 1500 mah pack - any kind - and it is rated at 20 C that means
it can deliver 30 amps.

If you have a 3000 mah pack - any kind - and it is rated at 10 C that means
it can deliver 30 amps.

So, if you need 12 amps you can use a pack with a higher C rating or a pack
with a higher mah rating to get to needed amp delivery level.

One last point. Motor batteries vs. receiver batteries

Some batteries can sustain high discharge rates. Others can not.

Those used as transmitter/receiver packs typically are made for low flow/amp
rates while those made for motor packs can sustain higher rates.

Having a 600 mah pack does not tell you if it is a motor pack that can put
out 6 amps, or if it is a transmitter/receiver pack that would be damaged if
you tried to pull power at 6 amps. It is enough to say that they are
different.

Clearly a motor pack could be used for a transmitter/receiver job, but a
transmitter/receiver pack should not generally be used as a motor pack.

It is best to size your battery packs so they run somewhat below their
maximum C rating. You will stress them less and they will last longer. For
example, if your motor needs a pack that can deliver 10 amps, getting a 1000
mah pack that is rated for 10C ( 10 amps ) will meet the spec, but it is
running at its limit. A 15 C rated 1000 mah pack would be better, or
perhaps a 1300 mah 10 C pack. In either of these cases, the pack will be
less stressed and should handle the load much better over the long term.


Other Resources

Sizing Electric Power Systems -
http://www.rccyberflyer.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272

Basics:
http://www.modelaircraft.org/mag/FTGU/Part8/index.html

Lithium Batteries
http://www.*********.org/lithium_bat...eakthrough.htm

Lithium Balancers and Balancing Chargers
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=599287

New Electric Flyer FAQs
http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/a105.shtml

A series of posts on electric power system basics
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1933
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417868

MotoCalc
MotoCalc will tell you everything you need to know: Amps, Volts, Watts, RPM,
Thrust, Rate of Climb, and much more! It is a popular tool for predicting
the proper motor, prop, battery pack for electric planes.
http://www.motocalc.com/

The Great Electric Motor Test
http://www.flyingmodels.org/motortest/index_e.htm

Electric Motors Described
http://adamone.rchomepage.com/guide5.htm

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