yngwie

Hi all!

I took my Typhoon out for her maiden flight Sunday (I knew better, complete newbie). The only “training” that I have is on Real Flight Simulator. Flying in an area about 130 feet by 220 feet with no “runway“. Too small, I guess!
This is my first plane, sooooo…. you know what happened!!
Tagged the ground twice and still able to fly (fly is used loosely here!) . Third time almost getting the hang of it when this tree grazed the wing (Homer Simpson “Doh“!). Anyhow she bit the dirt HARD! (only flying zero mistakes high!!).
Well, I snapped the front of fuse off just behind the cowl, bent the prop shaft, bent the prop, snapped firewall and trashed the cowl. Wings came loose, also. My fault, I guess! (No, it was that instantly growing tree!!) On to the questions.


1. What's the best glue that I can use to fix this?

2. Should I be concerned with alignment and how do I check for this?

3. Should I just get a new fuse with the other stuff I have to replace?

4. What is included with the bare fuselage? Firewall? Canopy pin? Clip where rear wheel attaches?

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

Also, would it be beneficial for me to get a trainer and fly the Typhoon later? On a 3 channel trainer, if the wings tip during a turn, how do you get back to level? I haven’t been able to do this on the sim.

Thanks

Yngwie

Stryker_Viking

Yngwie

I am so sorry to hear an almost exact copy of my silly misstake 1 1/2 years ago...
In my case the plane ended up in the top of an 80 feet redwood, was sitting there beyond the limit of rescue until it recently slowly started to come down 10 feet for every hard wind gust until I last week could bring her down...

I would like to give you two advices, if I may?!
1/ How to avoid to crash next time you try (on a suitable field)
2/ Glue to use for the foam...

1/ My suggestion is a FMA-Direct Co-Pilot....

My friend Gryphon once turned me on to this little $69 thing have no idea how many times this little investment has paid off for me alone...

How much does a bad crash cost? Well, you can calculate that I guess...

For a beginner that doesn't have "an elder" to help him out, it can be the factor that will prevent him from giving up... (as I did some 30 years ago)

I can swear by these "gadgets", have to date 3 of those Co-Pilots...

In a split of a second by letting go of the controls or with a flip of a switch, the plane (or helicopter) will be in level flight saved from disaster. It provides 100% real time day or night stabilization.

I even leave my Co-Pilot on when I hand launch from positions like slopes or other elevated locations where a 3-6 feet dip in the initial flight path can be allowed...

Also tested with Co-Pilot -assisted landings many many times both on the Stryker as well as my 3D-trainer with 100% success, even at times when it was getting too dark for me to see...

Furthermore; I would like to state that not only beginners to intermediate pilots, but also advanced and experts would love to eliminate the accidental incidents that we all do experience from time to time...

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?...489&section=20



2/ Use Gorilla Glue or any other make of Polyurethane glue, at some areas Epoxy, + buy a roll of 3m Extreme tape.

This glue will expand a lot as it cures creating a leight weight elastic seem that fills every pore in the foam. Spray with water on the surfaces, brush on the glue (brush needed to get good contact/bond) and seal/cover with the Extreme tape. The tape can be found at Office Depot among many places, the glue at any hardware store.
Epoxy in high stress areas as landing gear etc., be careful not to add unnecessary weight...


Tip; Be prepared to find your gears in the servos for Elevator as well as Rudder stripped after a while, they are known to this... You will probably like to upgrade at some point to metal or carbon gears...

Good luck


Stryker_Viking

_____________________________

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-- Altitude is my best friend...

Sir Raleigh

I use Sumo Glue instead of Gorilla Glue. It doesn't foam quite as much, cures in 1/3 the time, allows about 10 minutes to make sure the parts are aligned correctly before it sets, and cures more white than yellow.

Stryker_Viking, you mentioned that Gorilla Glue cures with an elastic seam, is this correct?
Would you be able to pull the seam apart if you had to?

Sumo Glue cures hard and can be sanded, and you can't pull it apart once it cures.

yngwie

Stryker_Viking & Sir Raleigh

Thanks for the info & link. Gonna tear it apart tonight & check everything out. May be unseen damage. I’ll glue this one back together & probably buy a new fuse afte[/size]r I get a handle on things. Oh, yeah, a larger flying area!
80 feet up, huh? That would have made me sick. I’d have probably embarrassed myself by calling 911 (or someone would have called 911 after I fell out of the tree!).

Thanks, again

Yngwie

Stryker_Viking

Sir Raleigh

The foaming of Polyurethane glue, and as far as I have learned over the last 25 years or so, is directly related to the humidity...

Yes, Gorilla and as far as I know any Polyurethane glue, can be sanded (though not easily)
Yes again, it's quite flexible as well, much better then CA and some versions of epoxy that actually can be quite brittle.
No, you have to be at least as strong as I am to be able to tear out the CF tubes and spares as I do when I decide a plane is bound for the dumpster...lol

Stryker_Viking

Leo L

Yngwie,

The Typhoon is definitely not a good plane to start with. You CAN learn to fly with it, but you'll be spending a lot of time and money repairing it as you learn. I would urge you to set it aside and get a good beginner plane like the HobbyZone SuperCub or Multiplex EasyStar. Then, when you are good at flying the beginner plane, get a good intermediate, like the Multiplex MiniMagistar (Minimag). Finally, when you are good at flying the intermediate plane, go back to the Typhoon and you'll love flying it!

For repairing the Typhoon, I prefer 5 minute epoxy, but Gorilla glue and CA work fine too. If you use Gorilla Glue, you must use some water to activate it. If you use CA, make sure that it is FOAM SAFE and you must use a Kicker to activate it properly. Whichever glue you select, after the glue has set, reinforce the repaired area by covering the seam with clear packing tape. The tape that is sold in CVS, RiteAid, Staples, etc. is good for most repairs. If you have a particularly critical area, go to the post office and buy a roll of their tape; its considerably stronger but is somewhat heavier as well.

One of the biggest problems with the Typhoon is that its very easy to loose orientation. For this reason, I, and most other flyers of the Typhoon at my field, have painted it so that the top is distinctly different from the bottom. Since you have it apart for repairs, now would be the best time to paint it. Spray enamel, available at hobby shops and home centers, works fine. Be careful if you try another type of paint. I heard that Laquer will ruin the foam.

Dave ESPI

DO NOT USE PROPELLANT AIRISOL CANS TO PAINT FOAM !

You have to use an airbrush or somethign that has no CFC or any kind of "thinner" base to them. They will eat foam or make them tacky to the touch.

ALso, You will need some FOAM SAFE Superglue. There is a few brands and ZIPKICKER has a new formula that is safe for foam that makes life much easier. You can also get a harder bond if you sprinkle Bakingsoda over the wet superglue and it will create a small exothermic reaction, and form rock hard cement superglue and act like afiller that is sandable in a few layers of glue and Bakingsoda if you blow off the excess and then apply a new layer of glue. I fyou use a thin type CA, it will seep right into the small piles of Bakingsoda and be rock hard in just a few seconds time

HTH....

I've crashed a few of my foamies, and that technique has saved me HOURS of labor.