JohnJenn

Hey all;
I just recieved the new e-flite Deuces Wild and would like some advice on the best place to purchase my motors, battaries, and ESC's. I am planning on using the 32 as opposed to the 25 Yeah Ney? Also advice on a good charger perhaps one that can charge 2 bats at once.
Thanks:
John

DaveFlynn

If you go with 4120 size motors and a single 3200 mAh 6S1P with 9x6 APC counter rotating props it will be wicked fast. The reason for counter rotating props is to make is to stop it from turning when you change pitch.

onewasp

It is listed @ 10.5 lbs on the high end (the 32BL's will put you at least to that point) and 740 sq. in. with a 62" span.

That will be anything but a beginners airplane with a wing loading of 32+ ounces. (32.7 to be exact)

I have just started on electrics but have been flying IC powered Pattern planes and IMAC stuff for 48 years.
At that size, 32 ounces is in NO way a floater!

Matter of fact it should have a very steady and predictable sink rate.

It looks like a nice airplane but "be ready for it" is my experienced guess.
Attractive little airplane though ___ I've seen it on static display.


P.S. the low end weight is listed as 9.2lbs which is a wing loading of 28.6 ounces. That is more reasonable but certainly doesn't qualify for the 'floater' category either.
It simply wasn't designed for low time RC pilots.

JohnJenn

Thanks OneWasp ( I think )
I am relatively new to flying this is my third plane I have been flying the T-28 trojan so I guess this is a pretty big step up. Fortunately I belong to a great RC club (52 members) Brazoria County Modelers Association which has a lot of experienced pilot's that are willing to buddy box with meand help get the trim right.
From your post do you think the 32Bl's will be sufficient ? I take it I should definitely not use the 25's? I also plan on installing the retracts so I know this will add weight.
Also what do you mean by not being a floater?
Any and all advice is definitely appreciated.
THANKS

onewasp

I would not rule out the 25BLs. They probably provide plenty of power and lower current requirements and therefore lighter batteries.
If I were setting this up for myself I would probably go for the 32BLs. I just wanted to make certain that you were aware of the wing loading aspect.
For that size model it is higher than "normal" though completely flyable.
You simply don't want any surprises on the first flight.

A 'floater' is one with a very long (high) glide ratio.
They seem to "float" forever with power off whereas I would expect the Deuces Wild to sink very rapidly with power off or at idle during an approach.

Controllable, just a different flight envelope.
If you try to stretch the glide on something loaded as this would seem to be, you are courting a stall.

Take a look at the video on the Horizon site and you will see that they landed it at a fairly high rate of speed, and it didn't bounce. Its roll out is also fairly long indicating a fair amount of speed at touch down.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...cesWild-Hi.wmv
Play it a couple of times. Concentrate on picking out the speed on the landing approach, touch down and roll out.

Hopefully it will help.

P.S. ___an after thought.
Since you intend to add retracts I would definitely go with the 32BL's. Yep, it adds weight when we'd like to lighten it up but it also adds power, ____ and we may find that you need it.

efly726

Hello - I spent the weekend putting the Duces Wild together. Didn't get any time to test fly so I'll only be able to comment on the build. Let me begin by saying be prepared to spend more than the posted 6 to 8 hour assembly time. The kit is beautiful, the parts all fit nicely and the finished product looks lightining fast just sitting on the ground. Be prepared to buy a lot of extentions and Y harnesses. You'll use every one. One final comment - this build will fight you all the way.

If you choose to use 32s understand their not drop in and go. If you follow the instructions you'll need a third and perhaps a forth hand to manipulate the nacelle, motor, spacers, X mount etc. After a few trys I came up with a way that I would highly recommend. Begin by sliding the stock blind nuts to the center of the plywood motor mount - get them out of your way as they are useless. CA them in place if you have to. Get your own 1 1/2" 4/40 screws and blind nuts. Now CA the spacers to the back of the X mount and carefully put it in the nacelle. Next put the motor in the nacelle. Gently route the three motor wires through the space on the side of the plywood motor mount. While holding the motor inside the nacelle turn the nacelle so that the front is facing down. Take some time with this next step - from the inside (back) of the nacelle screw the X mount to the motor. Don't forget the locktite. Be careful as you don't want to knock loose a spacer - if you do you'll have to start the whole process over again. Ask me how I know this. When the motor is mounted to the X mount line up the X mount so that the four holes are above the blind nuts that you glued at the beginning. Use a washer with each 4 40 screw. Using a good pair of tweasers, carefull insert the screws into the X mount, through the spacers and out through the plywood firewall. Put a blind nut on the first screw, leave it a bit loose and move on to the next until all four are in place. Then tighten all of them. If you use retracts - cut the nose gear line 12" not 10" as instructed. If anyone's interested in more please let me know.

onewasp

While I was commenting and NOT assembling I find yours to be a good post.

Anyone 'in process' should really appreciate it.

Robd

I'll second that. Particularly with the retract installation. If I could offer a couple of tips is that forget about installing the retract servo and air valve in the wing. Rig up a mount and install it in the fuselage. You will be able to eliminate one airline and one servo connection when putting the wing on. Also leave the landing gear installation until after you have the servo leads installed.
I haven't got to installing the motors yet (I'm using the 32 option) but I'm sure I'll have a few choice words.
-Rob-

Robd

Actually this wasn't as bad as I thought. efly726's comment about CA'ing the spacers to the X-mount is the charmer.

-Rob-

JohnJenn

Thanks for all the advice, I did decide to go with the 32's and retracts. As I explained to my CFO (wife) Would you expect me to put steel rims and a volkswagon engine in a Ferrari?
I should have my parts by tomorrow (It's Christmas early) I will definately head ya'lls advice and tips and anymore you can think of.
Efly I am hoping you will let us know how she fly's I agree she looks fast and mines not even together yet
Happy Flying [8D]

curtster

My Feedback: (4)

Hey guys,
I've been following this discussion as I put my DW together. I've got the retracts and I've been planning on running a pair of Turnigy TR 35-48-B 900kv motors and 60 amp controllers on it with 3 cell lipos. I tested the motor with an APC 12x8e prop and got about 435 watts. Lemme see now... 435x2= 870 watts into a 10.5 lb plane... 83 watts/lb. Not a rocket, but it ought to be fun, don't ya think? I could always go with a 4 cell battery, but I've got quite a few 3 cells around so I'd rather not. The good news, I guess is that if the motors don't seem to have enough power, I can always order something else from hobbycity.com since they are only about $26/each.
Opinions?

Curt

Signoir

Hi guys,

This is my first post and I hope they are not stupid questions.

I put together the wing on my DW and I noticed that with very little pressure at the wing tips in the opposite direction of flight, a gap, around 1/16", appears where the wing tip joins the center section.

1. Will air pressure in-flight cause the same gap?
2. Will this gap be a problem?
3. Should the wing tips be glued to the center section?

Thank you,

Bob

efly726

Hi Bob - I noticed the same on mine. In fact one panel appeared to be looser and create a larger gap than the other. Didn't like that one bit. I decided to use 30 minute epoxy and join the outer panels to the center section. If transportation is not an issue I'd highly recommend this modification. Good luck with the assembly.

Nick

Signoir

Hi Nick,

Thanks, I will glue them together.

Bob

efly726

Hey guys - just found a product bulletin on the Horizon website concerning the spacers included with the DW. Seems the first batch included spacers that are 9mm instead of 5 mm. I chose not to use the spinners because they caused a bad vibration and I didn't like the gap between the back plate and front of the cowl. Now I understand why.

I read a few posts concerning the plywood firewalls. Has anyone else noticed cracks in the firewalls or seperations between the plywood motor mounts and the fiberglass nacelles? I checked mine very carefully and the joints look fine. Wondered if anyone else noticed this or it was just on some of the first kits? Also noticed both motors (32s) have a degree or so of outboard and down thrust - anyone else notice this?

Tomorrow I'll fly mine for the first time - I'll post results.

Nick

Russmall

Nick,
I learned about the spacers being the wrong size the hard way, after the motors were bolted in!!! I had to take the motors back out (not an easy task) and make new spacers out of lite ply. I'm in the process of doing all of that now. I have not yet checked for any off-set thrust issues. My biggest complaint on this ARF so far, other than the wrong size spacers, is the poor quality of the covering. Out of the box, it was wrinkled very badly. I've ironed all of the wrinkles out, but they keep reappearing. Has anyone else had problems with the covering? I will be watching for your flight report......RS

efly726

RS - yes my covering kept looseing as well - I hit it with a gun several times before it tighten. I hope it handles the hot Florida sunshine.

efly726

Hello All - maiden today. only one flight because the nose gear didn't lock on landing - chewed up my props. Anyway the flight was great. Calm winds. A little up trim (CG = 3 7/8") and a touch of right aileron. Straight and level at 3/4 throttle. No bad habits and very predictiable at all power settings. Flight time was 6 minutes with TP 4S 3850s. Put back 1600 mah. I'd set the timer for 8 minutes and know that there'd be some left for a couple of go arounds. Lots of power with the 32s. Rolls were smooth with a touch of down. Loops were big.

Can't get the nose gear to lock down - anyone else having this problem?

Nick

Mikev

My Feedback: (1)

Hi. I flew mine three times so far. Had to put in1/8 inch of up elevaorto fly level. Balanced on cg with a litle down nose heavy. Had my batteries up against the firewall. I have hyperon 4s1p 3700mAH 25C Batteries. Second flight I installed the batteries about 1 1/2 inches back from the firewall. Now only 2 clicks of up about 1/16th of an inch on the elevator to fly level at all power settings. I also noticed a little down thrust on my motors and nacelles. Had the same problems putting it together. No big deal, a little more work putting in the 32 motors, but glueing on the spacers helped solve the problem. Took around 20 minutes of fishing around to install the back plate to motor screws, then the whole thing to the firewall. A little gape on the nacells installing them but filled with epoxi later fixed that. Also used uhu glue around the backplate to fix that problem and everywhere else I think it needed it. Used hex head thinner screws to attach the fixed gear centered between the mounts to fix that problem. As for the gap on the spinners I can live with that as it will allow extra air to cool the Batts and esc to go in between the spinner backplate. Anyway there is a prop adapter out there to fix that problem if it botthers ANYONE.
This a a great twin and I love it. So far dont need the flaps to land or take off. Takeoff at half throttle and land with idleling motors.
I have three other twins, a Transall 160 (twin 130 not four engine), an A26 bomber, and a Honda Jet. All on electric and they all fly great but not as good as this Deuces Wild.
Well thats my story and Im sticking to it. Ha. Ha. (GO TO RC ONLINE FOR A GREAT TREAD ON THE DEUCES)
Happy flying
Punkey

Thomas_19013

I just received a DW for my birthday yesterday. My wife bought it for me but had no idea how expensive the esc, batteries,motors and retracts would be. (around 900.00). Since I already have a pair of .25 nitro engines, I was wondering how difficult it would be to convert. The firewall placement seems to be to far forward but it is held in by glue. Would I have to add a lot of weight to get the cg right? Also the nitro engines I have are not counter rotating, would that be a problem?

Let me know, becase it is sitting in its plastic baggies waiting to be modified or returned to the hobby shop for something else.

Mikev

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All. This Deuces is a great plane on electrics. Dont know how much trouble it will be to convert to fuel and say 46 motors.
Might come out a bit nose heavy but who knows unless its done. I love the way it flys, no bad habits (like snaps etc). I flew mine at a forty five degree angle going up and kep throttleing back until it stalled. Just dropped the nose and kept on flying. Landings were smooth and flat with just above idle. No flaps used.
Will include some pics if I can.
Happy Flying
MikeV

JohnJenn

Hey MikeV;
I love your pilot. My wife bought me my Deuces Wild, she suprised me with it by sending to my work. My wife actually looks a lot like your pilot so I would love to put her in my plane (she likes her too) So where did you get it?
Thanks;
John

deuce09

I am building the deuce now and Iam ready to by props. However I am ready to by props now and would like to go with 3 blade over 2 blade props, mostly for looks. the problem is getting the right size props to match the 32E set-up. Also can anyone explaine what the to 2 num. mean that identify the props. Example(12X7) any help is appreciated thanks

DaveFlynn

Master airscrew has counter rotating 3-blades in 9x7, 10x7 and 11x7 sets. I use the 9x7 and 9x7P on my GWS P-38, turns right a lot better with counter rotating props. They call them a "Pusher", but the hub is on for it to be a CCW tracker prop.

onewasp

The first number is the diameter in inches (some also have the metric numbers) the second number is also in inches.
It is the pitch. That means (in your example) that the prop will move ahead 7 inches for each full rotation. This "assumes" no compressibility (slippage) which of course does occur.
Non-the-less that is what the numbers mean.

A 12x7 is a 12inch diameter with a pitch of 7 inches. Once you get used to the lingo you too will simply refer to it as a 12X7.