micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

the Fling is sweet just got done building one and tossing it around inside and outside. if thrown in the wind just right, she'll cruise around for a short while, hard toss results in a loop. i added a little something to mine just to try. i poked a hole in the bottom of the lower wing and inserted an inch long peice of CF through it, then i glued the CF rod into the upper wing (canard?). added a little peice of heatshrink tubing to the CF and now i can adjust the angle of the little upper wing. it can make for big changes in flight. the thumb tack was the only thing i had within arms reach, but it seems to work well.

i didnt check to see how long it took to build it, but it wasnt very long, used two foam dinner plates and foam safe CA for contruction. these could work really well for AA or other equipment, quite stable for a flying wing!

nick

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

I found aa's at tru online, the black & red c and the green & yellow b. $25 each.

Ahaa, (Ijust got ahaa), I think the batteries are different but I don't know why I think so. More to look into. Tim

The fling looks good, maybe with the 1/2 powered motors?

Neurotex

Amazin' ain't it!
I found that the wing tip flaps do the brunt of the turning as
well as some of the lifting. Wing flaps really haul it upwards.
You've made the bridge adjustable I see... already modding it.

Build one Ferndale, put the 1/2 motors in it with an old lipo you don't
want and free flight it.

Neurotex

micro, I started on the AA version of the flying wing last night but
I'm debating on what the wingspan should be.
What size would you build? Even a small plane will have lots of wing area.

I've gotten a test piece done and I'm using a stunt style airfoil sandwiched
between two 1.13mm foam plates. I've finally found a good way to join
foam sections together and a way to make decent prop slots.
The center fuse will be a 1.80mm bottom with the top piece of 1.13mm
added last.
All wing sheet should make it weigh easily under 10 grams.

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

Neurotex,
i had coreldraw running just now i so i measured the amount of wing area on the fling plans, and it came out to be around 15sq inches, not counting the upper wing, and thats only the 7" version. how slow do you want the plane to go would be the question, a 10" span version would give almost 30sq in of area, if you keep the AUW to around 15 grams, you'd have a wingloading of around 2.5oz sq/ft, so she could probably move about relatively slow, but still be able to rip. of course, if its heavier, she'll just move a little quicker i'd start somewhere in the 10-12 inch range, if you want it faster, you could just trim some of the trailing edge off!

where are you mounting the motors?

nick

googledperson

Could you post some instructions on how to build that? or is it just different length foam glued together at angles. Also, how much weight does the foam safe CA add?

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Although I'm sure this has been asked before ...I just dont feel like slogging through 150+ pages for the answer . What should I do if my one of the motors on my AA turns less RPMs than the other? I mean not just a little..but enough to make the plane turn 10 foot doughnuts without steering input. It stops spinning almost imediatly after I let go of the throttle. Its the left mottor that has the problem. And it WILL turn right, however the turns radius is about 30 feet.

Thanks
Collin

Neurotex

That is a lot for a 10" wingspan so I better keep it no greater than that. Might
trim it down as I test fly it. Making it nose heavy with some up evevator will
speed it up some.

As for the motors I usually cut the slots first and then move the battery forward
or back to balance but on this design there's little room for that. I'll mount the
battery at the very nose, then the Rx, and then balance the plane with the motors
last. That will tell me where the prop slots should be. I'm guessing close to the CG.

Neurotex

The glider is as far as I've gotten so far. A larger version will take some patching
together unless you have some larger sheet foam.
The one I made has a 7" winspan and was made from several plates of 1.75mm
foam.
Cut each wing half from one plate and then glue it to a balsa stick. I used hot glue
and the extra weight made little difference.
Then cut out the half circle bridge and glue it to the wings. Make sure you cut the wing
& bridge flaps for trimming. It does need a fine tune up.
Last add weight to the nose until you get a nice glide. You might need a bit of "up"
elevator to the wing tip flaps to get a nice lift.

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Armedzagi, I have a couple of questions. Have you been flying the plane for awhile, i.e. it is new? Did you use a tach to determine that the motor is positively turning slower? If the answer is "yes, the motor is positively turning slower". The reciever is in need of a new transistor set. If the answer is "no, it is relatively new, and I don't know for sure that the motor is turning slower" check the motor alignment. A slight turn of the motor axis will cause the plane to do the circle trick. So if it always wants to turn to the right, check that the right motor is, inline with or slightly turned out from, the tail boom or centerline. I find this easier to see from the top of the plane. A couple of degrees in toward the fuse will cause a problem. Good Luck, Tim

Hi all, here is my conundrum, I have a mono mod that doesn't want to climb or turn. It did both a couple of weeks ago, but now it won't. This is my night flyer so I don't usually fly in daylight. This is also the problem I had with my mono jet mods. Could the motors need to be angled up or down a degree or 2? Any thoughts and or advice will be greatly appreciated. Tim

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Its been less than 24 hours since I bought it. And I know for a fact the motor is turning slower. It also makes somthing of a scraping sound when I turn it by hand. What about trying some of the graphite lube on it?

Neurotex

ArmedZagi, use some Teflon, 100% pure silicone or even some 3 in 1 oil
in small amounts on the motor shaft. This might help break in the motor.
Or the prop is pressed on too far and it's rubbing against the base of the motor.
There should be some clearance in the shaft play, even when the prop is
pushed into the motor.

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Theres pleanty of clearance between the prop and motor. What are the first two things you suggested? The only time I've ever heard of teflon is on a frying pan [&:]

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Armed, as much as it hurts me to say it, return the bloody thing. If you can turn the prop with your finger and feel resistance the motor is junk. You might be able to put some oil into it and then blow out the excess with canned air and try to save the plane, or you can take it back and exchange it. I normally don't believe in returns, but this one sounds like it needs a motor. Tim

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Unfortunatly, the store I bought it from is 130 miles away...and thats the closest TRU to us.... Living in a small town in the middle of nowhere has its disadvantages. It would cost more money in gas to return it than the plane is worth. I'll try the oil and see how that goes. If it doesnt...oh well.

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Armed, other than a target, I either drive 3hrs to Oregan or 5-6 hours south to sacramento or the SF bay area. Tim.

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Geez... and I thought I had it rough! When we moved from Dallas I thought I was gonna die...I lived like 20mins from one of the largest hobby shops in the country...

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

I don't know mcalester, but you have probably seen my town. The town in outbreak and mr. majestic is where I live. 1500 people, 6000 dairy cows. On the coast, in California. Tim

chris1379

Looks like they've got you outnumbered 4 to 1. Let's hope they never figure that out.

Chris

chris1379

I had one that I had to turn the trim knob all the way to one side right out of the box. Just for the heck of it, you could also try balancing the prop. If it vibrates alot, add a small strip of tape to one blade. If it vibrates more, try the other blade. Then try different size pieces of tape until it is smoother. The motor may be bad but I wanted to at least suggest that.

Chris

Neurotex

The motor might indeed be junk but since you're stuck with it...
The Teflon is a spray lube in a can or tube. Bike stores have it and I've seen
it for about $15 a can.
I ran into some 100% silicone at my shop and sometimes use that. That's also
a spray in a can. I spray it onto a paint brush and apply it that way.
It works fine but I have to apply it every 10 flights or so. In a pinch I've used
just 3 in 1 oil and even gun oil.

micro, I'm having my doubts about using a 10" wing span. I slapped together a
10" model and hooked up an N20 with a capacitor. The planes flys really good but
has a slow climb rate. The N20 & cap weigh 7.2 grams.
The AA works are going to weigh about 10 grams, so maybe an 11" or 12" wingspan
might work better.

Also I noticed your model has less dihedral than this one. Did you find rolling to
be any problem? Might make another one with less an angle, maybe that will help.

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

neurotex,
the 10" model with an N20/cap should be a good combo, i wonder why she doesnt climb hard. did you try adjusting the motors angle and CG (probably a silly question)? there's more drag on a wing type plane, and with the prop getting blocked it creates a little more drag, but there should still be pleanty of power to push that plane around. maybe a bit of up trim on the flaps would even do it.

mine has a lot less dihedral than yours it looks like, i didnt really measure the angles when i put it together, but there havent been any problems so far. even when i whip it up for a loop, she almost always went all the way around rather than rolling out of it. however, i built a 10 inch version as well, but this one has the channel in it. it has even less dihedral, no rolling issues, but this one turns to a spiral every launch, no matter what. if i try to toss it to the right a bit to compensate for a left hand spiral, she just spirals right my wings look dead straight, and i had even put a verticle stab on it to act as a rudder, but she still spirals.

i'm guessing its the channel. my plans got a bit warped and twisted when i printed, so the channel peices came out larger than they shouldve been. the channel needs to be trimmed down and i need to find a way to make the channel bend in a perfect half circle, with CF i suppose, and the remount it and see if it helps. assuming it does fly, the SWP parts will get some use. heck, it might even be the pointed upper deck wing, rather than the rounded one - who knows?

nick

ArmedZagi

My Feedback: (1)

Where is the CG on that plane? Cause it looks like that channel has a ton of side area ahead of the CG....just my guess but I'd say thats whats causing youre spiral. Dont know for sure ...but I think it will spiral whether the channel is built perfectly strait or not.

Neurotex

You've got me as to why it spirals but I would guess it's the channel
acting like a giant rudder against the sweep of the wings.

The one I was working on spiraled also when the angle of the motor
was to steep. I finally got some lift out of it by installing a switch and
then over charging the capacitor to get some more RPM's. I also made
the bridge (canard?) adjustable with a pin to help. Lift is better but still
not what I hoped. I'm done with that now since I used up about 8 batteries
and finally fried the cap.

I also might redesign the bridge and make it bigger. It took some trimming
to get it to fly so anything you come up with to help stabalize it would help.
Now to start on an AA version.

I went back and added the CG to the plans.

Ayrton S

Yo!

Can anyone help? My son is coming over from your US of A for Christmas and wants a present idea.................[8D][8D]

Can anyone source a Picco Z near Hollywood, LA Ca - where should he look and how much should he pay??

Cheers

Ayrton

PS the long wing AA wow'ed em at the indoor meet - next time it'll have a long tail and u/c!!