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Pentathlon Evo - Electric

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Old 04-28-2011, 07:45 PM
  #126
RC_Pattern_Flyer
 
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Default RE: Pentathlon Evo - Electric

It flies!

And, well, its not the perfect plane with no mix and flies 10's.... alas.

BUT.... it really does fly well. I used a 22X12 APC and although at times I liked the pace it was zoomy? Meaning, pace was good add throttle, a little more and ten whoosh it would accelerate. yes, I know, I need a throttle curve etc but I want to play with a couple of props first.

I got 3 decent flights in but realized that a swept gear is not a good combo on this plane. I have since replaced swept with straight gear.

I really cant say too much, I have trimming and mixing to do.

As most Pentathlons, it wants to roll onto its canopy in knife edge and it barely goes to the canopy in downlines.

Chuck
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:04 PM
  #127
maustin
 
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Default RE: Pentathlon Evo - Electric

Chuck,
What gear did you use to replace the swept gear? I have the same issue with my Pent.

Thanks,
maustin
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:09 PM
  #128
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Default RE: Pentathlon Evo - Electric

Mike... whoever made the aquila offered a carbon gear option.

Northeast aerodynamics I think.

Chuck
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:43 AM
  #129
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Default RE: Pentathlon Evo - Electric

Keeping it straight... I got hungry
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:03 PM
  #130
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Default RE: Pentathlon Evo - Electric

wow
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:19 PM
  #131
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Can anyone help with the location of the c of g for the Pentathlon Evo please?. I'm currently building a Pentathlon and hoping to power it with the OS 33GT.

Many thanks Bob V
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:22 PM
  #132
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Bob,

I'm flying mine at the back edge of the wing tube.

Regards,
Mark
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:14 AM
  #133
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Build progressing Mark.....Thanks, Bob.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:51 PM
  #134
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I have been speaking with Mark this week have decided to build this plane myself, im excited. I also just moved to Indiana so I'm in the process of setting up my new indoor shop! I'd like to take this opportunity to setup a really nice, straight and flat building table, a necessity for building this plane. Can you give be recommendations on what you are using?

Thank you in advance for your help!
Bob
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:23 PM
  #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixed Wing View Post
The fuse portion of the wing socket was installed using the flat table as a reference and equal height blocks to ensure level placement. In addition, the wing tube was installed through the socket with equal lengths protruding on each side of the fuse. The tube tips were then triangulated with the center of the back of the fuse using a marked string. Once everything was verified and triple checked for being properly square the socket was left alone to cure. 30 minute epoxy was used with milled fiberglass for added strength. Once cured the excess socket material was sanded flush with each of the fuse sides.

Separately, sockets were installed in each of the foam wing cores. The cores were placed in their shucks and temporarily joined together with the wing tube in place under moderate weight. Having the wing tube in place during this process keeps the socket from compressing out of round when the weights are applied. The weights were used to ensure the sockets are actually level and flat with each other so they are properly aligned vertically when installed on the plane. Distances between the core leading edges and trailing edges were measured to make sure the sockets weren't misaligned in the cores front to back so that the root ribs will still flush with the fuse sides. You can't see it but there is a subrib installed that each wing socket protrudes through near its end. Poly glue was used to secure the sockets and sub ribs in the cores.
What brand poly glue did you use?

Thank you,
Bob
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:24 AM
  #136
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I bought a HD table but the surface wasn't perfect so I built I reinforced a solid core door and put it on top. I've been building a 40% Dalton 300 on it and it didn't bend when I was sheeting the wings.

These pictures are a little old and I've moved twice since I built this. It is still straight and if it warps, I just go get a new solid core door.

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Old 06-23-2017, 05:21 PM
  #137
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This is my work bench from a couple three years ago. new work bench for me (PHOTOS ADDED)

If I were to change anything I would add one more rail and would add some cross bracing between the rails. I would also make the top and bottom stressed skins out of 3/8 ply and still use the removable/replaceable working surface top. It is a little too wide but that is not the worst thing in the world. It turned out to be very stable and shake free when sanding. No further bracing of the legs is needed. Overall I'm very happy with the bench. OH... On advantage of the removable working surface is the ability to remove it and use sheets of paper to ship the top perfectly flat if you need to remove a built in warp. I did just that with mine. For some reason the front edge only was about 1/32 low in the middle. I use typing paper for shim stock. It is now flat and true.

Ken
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