toddblose

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Its crazy here, been below freezing all week now this.. Should be gone by tomorrow I hope.

toddblose

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So I am done with the builds but I am sure that I missed some things that people might have wanted to see. So Please
let me know what I missed and I will get it on here.

pattratt

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Hey Todd
If you have any Pic's on your Rx, speed control, regulator, and actually one with your motor battery mounted would be much appreciated.
I am also sending you a PM.
Thanks
Dick

nonstoprc

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Todd,

Do you use dual batteries/regulators in your set up? I have never used a regulator before and would like to try it to save some weight.

Thanks.

pattratt

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Nonstoprc

I use the Smart Fly Sport regulator and a 730 mah Li-Poly for the receiver setup. It has the capability of dual battery input but I do not use that feature. It is a very light set up and the output voltage is adjustable.

Regards
Dick

toddblose

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Dick,
Here are the pics you asked for..

nonstoprc,
I use the same as pattratt the SmartFly 6 volt pattern reg and a FlightPower 800 I dont use dual regs and batteries but I do know some guys do

nonstoprc

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Thanks Todd and Dick. I'll give regulator a try.

Todd,

I like the way these wires are soldered together. Can you describe the way it is done? I used 4mm bullet connectors for the purpose. Thanks.

pattratt

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Todd
Thanks for the Pic's. I like how you mounted the speed controller. Any issue with cooling in that the heat sink is not parallel to the flow of air from the cowl? I am guessing my natural C/G is slightly more nose heavey than yours as I have two less servos in the tail due to no split rudder.
I will have mine finished this week and will post final weights and Pic's.
Hope you Guys got to test fly today.
Dick

toddblose

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I used the 4mm bullet on this setup.. You can save some weight if you just solder the wires. The way I do it is cut the wires to the length needed to reach
then strip the wire on both the motor and ESC then take the ends (be sure and get the heat shrink on first) and push them into each other working the wire
together then solder. I will try and get some pic's to better understand


Thanks Dick.. No test flights today, looks like next Sunday for both planes. As for the ESC I have not had any problems with cooling and I am also
running the ICE HV 80 Light so I don't have the heat sink.. As for the CG since you do not have the 2 extra servos in the back you might need to
add on to the back of your tray so you can move the battery back. You can do that after you fly it but I believe your going to be nose heavy.



nonstop, here are pic's of soldering the wires. It is also very important to have a good soldering iron this makes it easier.

toddblose

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Ok so I have already seen one very important thing I missed..

Its called setup

Since the Da-Ja-Vu has the canopy base at zero we can use that as a starting point. First I will block up the tail wheel to get the canopy base to 0. Then I will double check the stab to make sure it is still at 0 same as the base, then I will set both wings to +0.5 and double check and recheck to make sure they are right. This has been the best starting point that we have found. After the first test flights most of the time you will adjust the stab only to take out the elevator trim that was added on the test flight.

toddblose

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Well I was able to get out and put 1 flight on the plane before the next cold front comes in. The wind was 20mph out of the North and the plane had not problems
and flew well. Need some tweaking but not much, using the same program is the only way to go (if you have the same plane) it just make the test
flight so much easier. CA has done a great job on replicating each plane that they put together

nonstoprc

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A different question.

I got the thunder power 730mah pack and the smartfly pattern regulator. Since this is my first attempt to use lipo for rc, I'd like to know the following

1 do u guys take the lipo battery out to charge it?

2 what connector is the best for the lipo? Dean's?

3. anything I need to pay attention to?

Thx

smcharg

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We ALWAYS take the LiPo battery out to charge it.  There's always a risk for fire with a LiPo and it's not worth risking the airplane ever.  If you are speaking of the connector to the 2S lipo connection, you'll use same connector that's on the regulator as that is what the battery plugs in to.  It's usually a Futaba or JR type connector.  They come with a connector for the charger and it'll charge through that connector.


I'd pay attention to how much you put back into the pack after 3 or 4 flights.  Divide the number of mAh that you put back in by the number of flights that you put on that pack to get an average of the amount of mAh that you use per flight.  Don't drop below 20% capacity.  On the 730 pack, that means never put more than 584 mAh back in.

Always, always check your RX pack before each flight regardless.  I lost a 2S Lipo out of the clear blue.  One day it was fine, the next it was junk.  I caught it because I charged the pack the night before (of course at a competition) and everything was fine.  I checked the pack before putting in the first flight and the voltage had dropped considerably.  Turned out, a cell had started to go bad.

falconhob

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Hi,

I'm just finishing up my DJV and was wondering where your CG is located (relative to the wing tube)?

Thanks!

toddblose

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At the front of the tube is where I started. You might want want to move it more forward as you fly just depends on how it feels to you

sedge

Hi dick
Have you a trace of the firewall for neu motor used on your dajavu
If so can you email to [email protected]

pattratt

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Sedge
I am sorry but I no longer have a trace for the De Ja Vu firewall.
Dick

toddblose

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sedge,
Just sent it to you.. I will add it here also

PeterP

The carbon wing tube in my CA DeJaVu model is quite loose especially in the wing sockets. Does anyone know if PBG have a drop in replacement which fits nice and snug (and possibly save some weight at the same time)

Secondly, Is the single wing bolt adequate? I find when I tighten the front wing bolt the rear of the wing pulls away from the fuse slightly - I guessing this is due to the loose wing tube in socket.

Thx

sedge

To todd
Thanks for the drawing, great. The other issue is my version is a full comp plane, not what was ordered but a pleasent surprise must say the finish is fantastic, anyway there is no indication of where to put the aerleron horns cannot see the triangle ply blocks due to the paint, can you help or maybe chip Hyde can advise, do you know who painted this plane, I have asked Columbo for a pic before the paint is added but haven't heard from him.

smcharg

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Hi Peter,
The single wing bolt is plenty. You won't have any issues with that. One of my DJV had a loose wing tube as well. Todd taught me to take thin CA and rub it on the tube itself with your finger. The very fine layer that you apply takes up all of the slack. The seat will be tight and work perfectly. After you rub on the thin CA, take a piece of fine sandpaper to sand the tube nicely to your wishes. Of course, make sure the CA is completely dry before you stick it in the wing. The sanding will help make sure this is the case.

toddblose

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Sedge
I hope Mike Kline or Chip will chim in on this. I did not have a chance to work on the composite wings so I am not sure..

sedge

Thanks Todd no other advice has been posted so I guess I am on my own. Has your djv got dehedril stabs

toddblose

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Ok sorry Sedge,
you should have anti hedril in your stabs here is a pic not a great shot but you can see the stabs

sedge

Thanks Todd pictures good enough to see. What is your honest opinion of this plane, my favorite ca plane is the Osmose,

I am thinking of ordering a second DJV

Stuart