dando

Hi again!
I managed to get the S9650 in one of the elevator halves and would like to proceed with the linkage setup, but I've got another concern now. I'm opting for using a servo horn with the hole around 13-15mm apart from the servo shaft. This would enable me to use the 60 degree per side servo travel (a total of 120 degrees). To use that however, I'd need to open the servo horn slot (widen and maybe even lengthen it).
With the recommended Dubro arm, I'd have to reduce the servo travel to about 60% instead of the full 140% (Futaba 9C Super) in order to get the bolt, nut and ball link not press the balsa and still get 20 degrees of elevator throw.
What end point adjustments for the elevator servos do you have? What is the distance between the servo shaft and ball link hole on your servo horns?
Thank you!

Kind regards,
Nickolay

TampaRCGuy

My Feedback: (282)

Remember, this is not a 3D aircraft. You will only use 11-15 degrees of throw on the elevator. I also used the S9650's, but due to the width of the Dubro arms, I used a metal servo arm so I did not have to trim the opening.

dando

Thank you for the answer! I had to enlarge the slot above the elevator servos in order to get the horns and travel I wanted (~20 degrees). I will post some photos when I have some other progress.
Do you remember in which areas you applied some thin or medium CA in order to improve the factory glue joint, for example motor box, landing gear blocks, servo mounting trays, anti-rotation pins, blind nuts and such?

Thank you!


Kind regards,
Nickolay

TampaRCGuy

My Feedback: (282)

Seep some CA on every joint that you can reach. While I found no areas that did not have a good glue joint, it took less than 5 minutes to do.

dando

Thank you again!
Should I glue the black bracket of the tail wheel assembly? I saw the attached photo on RC-Network, where this bracket is glued.
I found that if I leave it free, it would make deflecting the rudder smoother, but would like to hear some other opinions.

Edit: Did you apply threadlock to the bolts which go through the ball links, the ones on the landing gear, the motor bolts, the elevator and wing set-screws?

Thank you!

Kind regards,
Nickolay

Si-F3a

Just curious if anyone else has had this issue with the Vanquish. Am asking as I have just spent a couple of hours on the same issue?

I have an earlier vanquish and had no problems at all. The set screws on that (with loc tite) move easier that those in the 2 stabs I have been working on tonight.
Result is I have 1 stab with screws in that wont move any more and the other one has both sides Naged up so bad I cannot get the dammed things in. have already
sent a mail into EF and am awaiting their reply,

Simon

xrboss

My screws were so tight I used a bolt to clear the thread. It was like there was a layer of glue in the threads. I had to resort to using a bolt with an angle cut to clear it before using the set screws.

CashD

I got mine last week. But, I don't get to actually take it out of the box for several more weeks since it is my birthday present.

I have to say I was shocked to see the final credit card bill which arrived last night. With shipping to northern Virginia it cost $775. That is $125 to ship it! I had heard that shipping had increased, and I know it is a big box, but WOW! I was expecting it to be about half that much since that is about what I got charged for other similar sized aircraft recently from other sources.

Anyway, the plan is for an axi 5330 F3A motor. I can't wait to get started on it after waiting for it for soooo long.

strattac

My Feedback: (9)

I also had a hard time with the stab adjusters. They are made cheaply and will strip out very easy. One of mine stripped just as it became flush with the top of the stab, I contacted extreme trying to find a suitable replacement but they wasn't much help. I ended up removing a section of the sheeting on the stab and removing the stab adjuster and locking it down at 0 degrees with a 1/4" wheel collar and the plywood wing adjuster they came with the kit. I set the stab at 0, slid the plywood adjuster over the rod, installed the wheel collar and double checked the incidence until I was happy and locked it down and CA glued the plywood. Then I replaced the sheeting and patched the ultracoat. I think the wheel collar is actually stronger than the adjuster. I haven't heard of anyone setting the stabs at anything other than 0 degrees, so locking it down shouldn't be a problem.

KenChoo

Hi everyone,

For those using the CC Ice80hv esc, according to the manual the default brake setting is "soft delayed brake". They also note that soft is 50%, while earlier in the thread I see the max recommended is around 20%-30%. As I don't have a Castle link I'll have to do the programming using my Tx and so I have limited options...would that meani should use no brake (disable the brake)?

Thanks,
Ken

TampaRCGuy

My Feedback: (282)

I normally do not use the brake on my electric aicraft. Using props up to 10" pitch, no brake was ok. Once I started to use the 13" and higher pitched props, I found that I needed the brake. I started at 20%, then 30%, and now I am at 50% brake. The 50% brake is perfect except for the squeal you hear when you power back up. I find it very annoying but I have not experiemented with it to see how much lower I can go and still like the braking feel.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

30% seems opitmal on the Castle stuff to get optimum braking without the squeal. It still provides very good brake, but you don't get the noise. Careful throttle management over the top of maneuvers can help with this as well. If you start slowing down a little earlier it helps control the speed once you start the downline.

Arch

KenChoo

Thanks guys, I guess the best plan then is to disable the brakes until I get a Castle link to program 30% braking.

Cheers,
Ken

david hancock

Good day everyone. I just picked up my Vanquish, which will be my first 2m plane. I know several of you are using the CC ice80hv for your ESC. My question is this, I have been using an electrifly silver series 80A ESC in my wind 110 and it has worked flawlessly. Is there anything wrong with using it in my Vanquish?

Dave

pvogel

Looks like it will do fine. My only concern would be the max surge current at 96A, I've definitely seen currents above that on my Vanquish + Hacker Q60-F3A combo.

Peter+

david hancock

I have researched the CC80HV and can't find the peak amps for it. Anyone have the info.

Dave

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

CC ESC's have a high-current shutoff, I think you can choose up to 140A (going back I don't see the numbers listed anymore, IIRC the rep said the "insensitive" was 120-140A). The reps at CC say to completely turn it off, for F3A we will not see that kind of current long enough to cause any issues. The 80A is conservative, 120A easy.

Electrifly stuff should be pretty bulletproof as well; an 80A ESC should be fine for F3A.

david hancock

Thanks for the replys, very much appreciated.

Dave

KenChoo

Hi Guys,

Just a picture of my Vanquish, after successful maiden earlier this morning.

Cheers,
Ken

fa18frog

I have a Vanquish weighing in at 5300g and I am a bit puzzled as to why. Wondering if those with lighter planes might post the all up weight minus the 10s or 2x5s battery packs so that I can assess where I need to cut weight. I believe my set up is very similar to "stock" with a Torque Silver Bullet, Castle ICE HV 80 ESC etc with the only major difference being the the selection of HITEC servos - since this is my first venture into the pattern world. A little research shows they are indeed a few grams heavier and add 50-60g to the weight but that still leaves 350g or so unaccounted for. A little more research - RCPattern mentioned that he came in at 4912g using Turnigy 20c 5000mah batteries which weigh 763g - according to the Hobby King Web Site. I am using Gen Ace 5s packs that weigh 746g which just about negates the difference in servo weights.

I am new to pattern so any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I can likely cut the weight with lighter lipos, but using a very "stock" setup I seem to be 300-400g heavier before the batteries go in. Weights minus the lipos would help considerable to see if I am at least in the ball park.

fa18frog

My Vanquish (Torque Silver Bullet and Castle ICE HV 80 ESC) RTF minus the 2x5s packs weighs - 3800g. Wondering how that compares to other builders using a similar motor/esc combo.

woodie

The Turnigy 5000mah 5S 20C packs are listed as 666gr, the 763gr weight you referenced is the shipping weight including packaging. Using the 666gr weight accounts for almost 200gr of the delta you mentioned.

Woodie

TampaRCGuy

My Feedback: (282)

your's came out heavier than mine did, I am at 11 lbs 2 oz and I know why mine did. If you are using the Torque motor, that weighs nearly 5-6 oz less than my Dualsky. What do you have for a rx battery? I am using a PowerEdge 850 mah 2S LiFe battery.

How is your CG? My 2 5000 5S 30C batteries are almost as far forward as they can get, so although I have a heavy motor, the issue I have is in the tail.

The Vanquish flies very well at any weight.

fa18frog

Thanks Woodie, I learn something new every day - that accounts for 200g which makes me feel a bit better. I am using Gen Ace 5s 5500s which are a bit heavier but I figured would give me a bit more time to practice.

For a receiver pack I am using a LiFe 1100mah (95g) pack which after a few sessions I can see is way overkill - it is just in front of the wing tube. I am sure that I could save a bit of weight there as well if I decide to compete someday. The CG is on the forward edge of the wing tube (21 3/8" from the tip of the spinner) and I could still push the batteries a good 2-3in forward.

James

hezik

One other point you might lose some weight on.. the CC ESC specs as very light, but the trick is, they spec it without the VERY HEAVY cables which are on there.

By cutting the battery wires on the ESC size to half, and doing the same for the engine cables, you can save up to 40 grams on the ESC.

On general, in a 2m electric pattern bird with digital servoÅ› like the BLS 451, you'll use about 35~40mAh of receiver pack capacity per flight, so 1100 is way overkill, this would be good for like 25 flights :P

400~500mAh should be more than enough for 10 flights.