pvogel

I use bullets

Delicious J

Cool, just wondered about the 10s voltage. Not used to Electric setups with this kind of spark

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I use 4mm bullets now. At one point I soldered everything, but then if you have to change something it becomes a much more difficult task. The bullets have worked great,

Arch

STEVE HOSNER

I use bullets and haven't had any problems at all. I am using the Castle 80 amp HV ESC with a Hacker A60-7S
without any sign of a problem.

Steve

pvogel

Yeah, I agree with Arch, it's just so much more convenient to rearrange stuff when motor and ESC aren't soldered together. 4mm bullets (especially the ones from castle) are capable of 100s of amps of current, especially for the very short pulses needed for a brushless motor. The big continuous current draw is between the ESC and the batteries and there bullets are also fine, but so are Deans and Anderson Power Poles, etc. The Spark is due to the inrush current going from the battery to the empty capacitors in the ESC, if you want to avoid it it's relatively simple, you just need to "pre charge" the caps through a current-limiting resistor. On my non emcotec equipped planes I use a momentary push button that bridges the posts on my arming switch (which is breaking the + lead from the battery) through some 18AWG wire and a 1.3 K Ohm 3W resistor. Takes a few seconds to hear the beeps from the ESC that tell me its caps are charged and then I put the arming plug in with no spark. Avoids degrading the deans' spring that ensures a secure fit and good contact.


Peter+

Delicious J

On my non emcotec equipped planes I use a momentary push button that bridges the posts on my arming switch (which is breaking the + lead from the battery) through some 18AWG wire and a 1.3 K Ohm 3W resistor. Takes a few seconds to hear the beeps from the ESC that tell me its caps are charged and then I put the arming plug in with no spark. Avoids degrading the deans' spring that ensures a secure fit and good contact.



I don't speak Portugese

doogiehl

Hi everyone I need to find out the part no. for the darker blue covering on the blue and pink vanquish 2m. I think its ultracote Deep Blue. Need to patch after re enforcing the main gear. I cant find a post on this I am sure its here somewhere.

On the ultracote website it appears to be Deep Blue HANU 873 can anyone confirm this?
Best regards

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, it is UltraCote Deep Blue.

doogiehl

Thanks best regards

Delicious J

As I am just about to install servos, I realize that the recommended JR DS9411 Aileron servos, are too small for the cut outs.

Odd? These are obviously setup for slightly larger servos, and my wings even have pre-drilled holes for mounting.

Iwill obviously glue some wood shims in, just wondering why the cut outs are bigger?

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

That's annoying. They even recommend those servos and show them in the assembly manual. I had a plane where the cutouts were too big for my stab mounted elevator servos and it was a real chore trying to get the plates in and everything lined up right.

Delicious J

The one time I go with recommended servos, they holes aren't even cut for them, go figure.

My dremel broke a few weeks ago, so I am going to have to wait at least
until this weekend to install the servos. Looks like the elevator servos will fit with just a little filing.

mazjag

Anybody know what size servo extensions are required and how many..I`m using Futaba servos....thx..

pvogel

I'm using 2 x 36" for the elevator servos (but the JR servos I have have 12" long wires and it's just long enough), 4x6" for the ailerons (one 6" to get out of the wing and the other 6" is plugged permanently into the RX, I join the two when the wing goes on and have an extension clip to keep them connected) and 1 12" for the ESC (actually 2, since I'm using Jeti equipment and need to extend the EXT port as well as the throttle connector). No extension needed for the rudder.

Peter+

mazjag

Thanks Peter!

Flyer88

Vanquish 2m on 6s /5000
Nice video !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O66fLW5BB_k

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

That might be the most unimpressive f3a video I've ever seen.

Flyer88

The flying was not the greatest but I thought it demonstrated the power and duration of the 6s set-up very well.

That's what I meant.....

Delicious J

I'm jealous of the (1) battery setup.

I told myself I would never run lipos in series ever again. .....and here I am.


First time I saw the 2M Vanquish was at a show. I asked Chris Hinson, what gas motor they were recommending. He laughed, I was serious.

I had no clue that Pattern guys were flying these electric at the time.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Attempting to look only at the performance of the airplane in that video, I thought the plane looked under powered and "floaty". The plane did not once appear (to me) to have any kind of authority, whether it was authority in tracking through the wind or pulling itself through a loop segment or vertical.

I know many people say 'lighter flies better' but there is an ideal wing loading for what we are trying to do. The plane was designed for 10S. It probably can fly pretty good on 8S but would be more taxing on the electronics and get reduced flight time. I think that 6S setup is a complete waste of a performance F3A airplane.

3D guys would fly this plane (if they were to fly it) on 6S, 8S tops, but with super high discharge packs, running at very high current, and for shorter flight times. Their goal is max power:weight, and 'floaty' is a good thing in 3D.

If 10s or even 8s setups are too expensive, I would suggest an appropriately equipped smaller plane.

I would have wrote more in the first response but I was not at my computer.

Delicious J

No doubt. If you are going to electrically power this airframe, you need 10s.

Iwould have likeda gas engine though.

Flyer88

Like I said previously " I think it's a good demonstration of the plane powered on 6s"

??

Delicious J

Any tips or tricks for threading the pull-pull wire through that long thin tail?

Flyer88

I use a device that can clamp on and pull it through.
I honestly don't know what you call it ??
It has four little prongs that poke out at the end to clamp on to things.


http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps85fd05c0.jpg

Delicious J

That looks neat. I grabbed a tiny hollow brass tube about 36" long.

Ihave an idea, if it works it's going to work excellent, all for a $1

I will post some pics if it works out.