Delicious J

I am looking at hit-tec and futaba. These are cheap in price but servos that a lot of people use.

Some of these servos I listed were used by pilots competing in the world championship F3A class.

The numbers are there as far as torque, speed, reputation. I am just looking to see if anyone has experience with them specifically

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

If you look at the early part of this thread. I used Futaba 9650s in the tail, 9155 on the rudder and 9551s on the ailerons. They worked great. They are not the latest brushless servos, but we're the best Futaba had a few years ago. They are perfect for the Vanquish and help keep the costs more reasonable.

Arch

Delicious J

I took your servos into consideration and went with the Futabas for elevator. I am on a tight budget, but if I am not happy with the Hi-tecs on aileron I will definitely go with the futabas in the future.

Thanks

viva_peru

Any thoughts on making the blue/white/pink version more visible?

I have about 15 flights on my Vanquish and I have noticed that it can be hard to see at times; either right side up or upside down. I bought some pink Ultracote and I was thinking about adding some stripes to the wing bottoms, but I am not so sure of what to do with the top surfaces. I was thinking about re-doing the wing tips, or adding some pink covering in the inboard areas which are currently white.

Has any one had a similar issue?

Thanks,

Teo

Jeff Worsham

My Feedback: (28)

I had same visibility problem- couldn't tell top from bottom as the model got further away. Ended up removing the red stripes from bottoms of wings/stabs and then filled most of the resulting open white areas with blue ultracote (same shade as trim color on top). The change worked for me.

viva_peru

Hi -

Thanks for the reply. I actually have the 48" and 2M versions of the Vanquish. The little one has the red color scheme while the 2M has the blue scheme. I find the red one easier to see, although I will loose the wing bottoms from time to time. In the case of the 2M, the bottom wing is blue and white and under some sky conditions it is also hard to see. Right now, I am thinking I will add some pink stripes where the white is on the bottom surface. For the top surface, I am thinking about changing the blue tips for pink. Not sure yet. I am glad to hear that I am not the only one with this problem.

Teo

Delicious J

Anyone need (2) NEW futaba s9650's let me know. I have two I am selling cheap

dwaynenancy

My Feedback: (62)

How much is "cheap"?

Delicious J

$45 a piece. Tower had them for $59.99

I just bought hi-tecs today, so I am definitey not using them.


They are new and I have a new set of long heavy duty dubro futaba arms to throw in with them.

jadamian75

If I spent the extra money on the BLS servos what would I notice? Any better resolution? I know Futaba states they last 5 times longer. The recommended Futaba setup mentioned by Arch is about $371 from TowerHobbies after a $44 coupon. The BLS setup mentioned on Extreme Flights website would run $600. The BLS setup is also hard to find in stock anywhere. It looks to be available at http://www.sheldonshobbies.com/servos.html. I would rather order from a well known site. Is anyone running high voltage servos so they can run a 2s lipo reciever pack without a regulator? I have heard that some people prefer a regulator to have a consistent voltage to the servos so that they always have the same amount of torque and speed instead of it decreasing as the pack decreases voltage.

jadamian75

I have the Airframe and I am getting ready to order the components except for the batteries for now. I plan on hopefully using 2x 5s Rhino 4900s. I have had some rhinos last a very long time in the past. Some are still going strong from 2008! Let me know what I am missing or if I may want to consider something else. I also like to keep things very simple. Minimal components and wires are preferred.

From F3AUnlimited:
Power limited Deans Series connector $13 I like this one because it is compact. Is there a problem having the connectors that close or should I just plug the battery ends in first then plug both into the esc? Can I just leave it plugged on the ESC portion and plug one battery in at a time? I know there will be a pop but I am used to this when the connectors are farther apart then right next to each other.
Himax HC6330 Pro $300
Gator battery strap with buckle pair $4
Castle Edge HV 80 $162
APC 20.5 x12W $15
APC 21x13W $15. (I'm at 5200 ft so I will test for amps and watts)
After I figure the correct diameter and pitch using an APC I would like a nice looking Carbon Prop or Xoar F3A prop wood or carbon electric prop.
Hangar 9 angle pro 4in1 digital throw and incidence meter $60
Hangar 9 36" extension bar for incidence meter. $14

Tower Hobbies
Futaba s9650 x 2 elevators (2x $60) $120
Futaba s9551 x 2 ailerons (2x85) $170
Futaba S9156 rudder $125

Extensions for the servos ? What lengths do I need?
reciever pack ? What mah amount? What is the simple set up people use.
2s lipo with a CC BEC pro or is something else preferred?
LiFe pack?
Is anyone using a CC BEC pro off the main packs? It would only put out about 9 amps continuos on 10s.
Do people use a switch on this plane? I usually install nylon thumb screws on the canopy and unplug batteries. I also use a throttle kill switch on the transmitters.
Anything else I missed?
How many channel receiver do I need? I'm guessing 8-9. 6 for servos and motor. 2 for CC BEC pro or other regulator. 1 possibly for a switch.
Thanks for the info

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

jadamian75 ,

This is almost the exact setup I had in mine. I am at 5,000' as well and I found the APC 21x13 to work very well. I was running Zippy Compact 4500's and had plenty of power and time to go through the Masters sequence with 20% remaining. I was running a 2s 800mah lipo through a powerbox digi switch on the RX and was getting about 6 flights on a charge. I would also recommend setting about .8 deg pos in the wing and 0 in the stab for this altitude. Enjoy!

Chris

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

Did you change your incidence for sea level flying chris?

Tony

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

Tony,

I have not had a chance to fly this setup at sea level but I understand it would take a slight adjustment to get the same effect.

Chris

jadamian75

Chris, Thanks for the info. I did not realize the incidence would be different with altitude as well. Should I even bother ordering the APC 20.5x12w? Is there another prop size you liked as well or another I should try. I really don't want a plastic prop but the other ones are to expensive till I narrow down the pitch and diameter that works well.

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

jadamian75,

I think you'll be happy with a 21x13. I understand not wanting to spend money on carbon before knowing which one works best for sure though. Falcon has a few more options running from a 20.5x13 to a 21.5x13 or 21x13.5 but APC only has the 21x13. I would try the APC 21x13 and see how you like it, then if you want more speed, go up in pitch, less speed, go down in pitch and so on.

Chris

kobago

Hi everyone.
This is my Super Vanquish. （＾＾； I am flying this airplane as long as two years.
There are two features in this S_Vanquish.
1) It attached somewhat large canaliser　that is very effective in F-15 pattern.

2) I thought that the noise of S_Vanquishu was a little high. Therefore, the hole of nose intake was made small. And form of air outlet hole was smoothed.

kobago

hovermaster

My Feedback: (2)

kabago,

A cantalizer works well on this airplane, glad you like it!

Chris

kobago

Chris
You are grate! and so stylish.

By the way, Small canaliser was attached to my Vanquish before.(see a photo)
When I flew P-15 pattern, small canaliser was enough as the effect.
However, by F-15 pattern, effects are insufficient. I felt shortage of a float by knife edge-related performance, descending especially.
As a result, my canaliser became long in a lengthwise direction.

kobago

jadamian75

Are most guys running a safety arm switch on the esc and switch on the regulator for the receiver? I have always had canopy latches and or thumb screws for the canopy all the way up to 74" planes. My gas planes do use switches. My friend has an electric 78" EF extra with two latches. I just really don't like making the side of the plane ugly with switches and prefer less wiring. Are switches and or safety plugs required to compete. If they are I guess I will have to do them. Thanks for the info.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Safety switch are not required....

viva_peru

With the amount of power available, I would say that they are needed. In my case, the arming plug (based on a deans connector) is visible from the outside, but the swith for the radio system (Powerbox digi switch) sits inside the plane. It just means that the radio is turned on for a little longer as I do and undo the canopy.

Teo

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

That's a matter of opinion...I don't need them or want them because its just another possible point of failure and I need to start the radio and open the canopy (quick Secraft latch)and I also don't want any external switches, I could have used a remote switch to turn the radio on (Jeti user), but the question was are they require for the rule.....the answer is No

jadamian75

Thanks for the info guys. For now I may keep it simple and standard like my other planes with no switches or plugs. I will look into the quick disconnect latches since I like the feature on my planes that I have had from 3DHS that have had something similar. I have had only one fail and i just added the nylon thumbscrews to that plane. When I look inside my gas planes it looks so complicated with all the wires and plumbing. I like how my current electrics look very simple when I open the canopy. I'm going to try to keep it that way. If people were not using receiver packs on this size either I would opt to go that route and just use a CC BEC pro off my main packs. That seems like its not the standard at this time on 10s setups so I will stick with a receiver pack and appropriate regulator from f3aunlimited.

Delicious J

looking forward to a maiden this weekend with my 2m vanquish.

Build went smooth, everything looks good. Only complaint is the screws that keep the cowling on. What is that about?? lol There must be some trick. Lets just say, I hope I don't have t take the cowling off anytime soon.

BTW, I am starting with a 20.5x14 on the Himax motor. Hopefully its a good fit.

What other prop should I try if any?