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  1. #126

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    What makes desoldering difficult is the lead free solder material. Of course the multilayer board can be a pain in the a** as well.

    A good trick is to add some good old tin/lead solder to the joints first and then desolder them. Much easier that way. If you have temperature adjustment on the soldering iron, use at least 370 degrees C.

  2. #127

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    I did the trick of adding lead/tin solder first. But there are apparently plated thru vias in the board, so the complete hole from top to bottom has to be molten.
    Jon Lowe

  3. #128

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    That's correct, practically all modern equipment have through plated holes. The soldering iron has to be at least 50W and the tip should be fairly short and wide to carry the temperature over. Another trick is to use a heat gun to pre heat the board to some 100 degrees C before soldering but usually that is not necessary. It may even be a bit dangerous if the heat gun does not have accurate temperature control.

  4. #129

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    We had everything to gain and nothing to lose on the ESC on which I changed the caps. Two of the caps were bent, and two also had one lead each pulled out of the can, so the ESC was unusable as it was. If I had failed, we were no worse off except for the expense of 3 $.85 caps.

    The case was also broken, so we used clear heat shrink on it, and cut out a hole where the label and heat sink plate is. The thing looks like it has a condom on it!!
    Jon Lowe

  5. #130

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC


    ORIGINAL: jonlowe

    We had everything to gain and nothing to lose on the ESC on which I changed the caps. Two of the caps were bent, and two also had one lead each pulled out of the can, so the ESC was unusable as it was. If I had failed, we were no worse off except for the expense of 3 $.85 caps.

    The case was also broken, so we used clear heat shrink on it, and cut out a hole where the label and heat sink plate is. The thing looks like it has a condom on it!!
    Thanks for the info Jon. I take it replacing the caps worked? I got the old ones out so I will give it a try. Like you said we don't have much to lose.

    Jim O

  6. #131

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    Jim,
    I've tested it on the ground, but not flown it yet. Seemed to work fine.

    BTW, on the bottom of the board, there is a square, flat black device, not an IC. The black plastic cover was broken on the device on the esc in question, but the coil inside was not hurt at all. I tried the numbers on the device, but couldn't come up with anything. I think it is an inductor, but I'm not sure. Only has two solder points. I think the lettering on it was L101, and then .g3c or something like that below it. Do you know what it is?
    Jon Lowe

  7. #132
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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC


    ORIGINAL: jonlowe

    I've been told that, in general, it is a good idea to keep all wires as short as possible to reduce voltage ripple which stresses the ESC. The big capacitors are there to handle ripple but they have their limits. Wire length and the batteries themselves can all generate more ripple. Between the cables on the batteries, and the ones on the OS controller, I've found them long enough. Wire of that size is also heavy, another reason to keep them short.

    ORIGINAL: nonstoprc

    I got mine as well and found the main battery wires are relatively short, compared to ESCs of other brands. Has anybody soldered some extension wires?
    Well, in this plane (a Passport), the ideal location for the ESC is on the back of the deck where a constant flow of air passes through. The ESC will be a drop-in replacement if the wires were just 1 inch longer.
    Where facts are few, experts are many.
    Perfection is God\'\'\'\'s business.

  8. #133
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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    An arming switch is one way to add a little length of battery wire and get something useful out of the extra connection.
    Joe Marri
    Enjoying all things aviation.

  9. #134

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    Jon, the device you describe must be an inductor. If the broken cover is just plastic, then there should be nothing to worry about.
    If it is some sort of ferrite material, then I would try to replace it too. The letters L101 point to a inductance value of 100 microHenrys. A photo and exact dimensions would help greatly in identifying the proper replacement.

  10. #135
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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    BJ reported the setup and performance data for Neu F3a motor here, which I quoted as follows.

    "I installed Neumotor as power source and Futaba 9100 ESC in my test plane.

    In my maiden flight I used APC 20*15 prop, maximum ampere was 65A and I consumed 2,700mah to perform P-13 under the windy circumstance.


    Futaba ESC supports very smooth and neat brake in the flight.

    The data come out using F3A Neumotor/ APC 20*15/ 4,500mac 30c are :
    Timing 0 degree
    Acceleration normal
    start power normal
    Brake 50% / on
    Gear 6.7:1
    "

    Sounds like the esc and the motor are a very good match.
    Where facts are few, experts are many.
    Perfection is God\'\'\'\'s business.

  11. #136

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC


    ORIGINAL: jonlowe

    Jim,
    I've tested it on the ground, but not flown it yet. Seemed to work fine.

    BTW, on the bottom of the board, there is a square, flat black device, not an IC. The black plastic cover was broken on the device on the esc in question, but the coil inside was not hurt at all. I tried the numbers on the device, but couldn't come up with anything. I think it is an inductor, but I'm not sure. Only has two solder points. I think the lettering on it was L101, and then .g3c or something like that below it. Do you know what it is?
    The part is clearly marked F101 g2D on mine. It could be a fuse but probably an inductor. If it works, fly it.

    Jim O

  12. #137

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC


    ORIGINAL: jonlowe

    We had everything to gain and nothing to lose on the ESC on which I changed the caps. Two of the caps were bent, and two also had one lead each pulled out of the can, so the ESC was unusable as it was. If I had failed, we were no worse off except for the expense of 3 $.85 caps.

    The case was also broken, so we used clear heat shrink on it, and cut out a hole where the label and heat sink plate is. The thing looks like it has a condom on it!!
    I got the parts from DigiKey for about $0.60 each and they seem to be working fine. I tested it on the bench with a Pletty EVO and ran it from 500 to 6200 rpm smooth as silk. At less than 500 rpm there was a high frequency screech that might be due to the 32kHz PWM frequency but we don't need to run it below 500.

    Jim O

  13. #138

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    RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC

    Jim,
    Glad it worked out for you. I like repairing stuff like this. A lot better than spending $175 on a new one!
    Jon Lowe

  14. #139

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    Anyone tried this ESC on a Hacker A-60 7S V2 ?
    Last edited by KGSS28; 09-24-2013 at 07:49 PM.

  15. #140

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    Quote Originally Posted by KGSS28 View Post
    Anyone tried this ESC on a Hacker A-60 7S V2 ?
    Apparently not (at least not by anyone monitoring this thread)! However, reading through this thread it has been used successfully with several different motors with good results. I have more than 200 flights with it (the OS branded item, same thing) without a hitch using a Pletty Advance. I would be very surprised if there was a problem using it with a Hacker A-60.... surely somebody would be screaming about it already it there were some issues.
    Bob

  16. #141

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    I just don't know . The problem as It was explained to me is the frequency fixed at 32 when the motor calls for 8-16. Some say it will still work some say it won't.
    Hacker told me that the OS won't run any 28 pole motor . I know this to be a little off as I have seen a Fury run on one first hand great power and braking. The Fury is a 28 pole motor that calls for 24 as the fequency .

    I think I may just buy one and try it . If it won't work I can use it on my Himax powered Monolog , I know that will work and have the improved brake.

  17. #142

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    I have the OS version & Hacker A60 5S V2 using 8S on my Mythos 125 - the 5S is also a 28 pole motor. At the Hacker recommended 25 degrees timing I got loss of sync at 2/3 throttle - reduced the timing to 22 & 23 degess and the loss of sync was gone. I run at 22 degrees, 20x12 PT prop, 8S 5000 packs & get 2700W.


    Steve

  18. #143

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    Does anybody tried this ESC with the C50 XL13 engine from Hacker?
    Thanks
    JP

  19. #144

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    [QUOTE=SAB;11625286]I have the OS version & Hacker A60 5S V2 using 8S on my Mythos 125 - the 5S is also a 28 pole motor. At the Hacker recommended 25 degrees timing I got loss of sync at 2/3 throttle - reduced the timing to 22 & 23 degess and the loss of sync was gone. I run at 22 degrees, 20x12 PT prop, 8S 5000 packs & get 2700W.


    Steve[/QUOTE

    Doesn't the 5S have a Kv of 420? That seems awfully high for an 8S. It looks to me like the A60 7S V2 with a Kv of 320 would be right for 8S. What are your thoughts?

    Jim O

  20. #145

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    Jim,

    No the A60-5S V2 has a Kv of 295
    here's a link
    https://www.aero-model.com/8_72_1127...0-5S%20V2.html

    Steve

  21. #146

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    Quote Originally Posted by SAB View Post
    Jim,

    No the A60-5S V2 has a Kv of 295
    here's a link
    https://www.aero-model.com/8_72_1127...0-5S%20V2.html

    Steve
    Sorry, I was looking at the A60-5XS V2.

    Jim O


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