Soldering Lipos
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: glasgowScotland, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 2,081
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Soldering Lipos
Today I was disconnnecting my lipo from the ESC when the negative lipo lead became disconnected from the lipo, I was not aware of putting any tension on the cable, it just seemed to drop off. Lucky it happened on the ground and not in the air!
Is it safe / practical to re-solder the lead to the lipo? I have not done it before and would appreciate any advice on how to best go about it. I usually use a small gas blowtorch for soldering connectors to cable as my electric iron seems to struggle to put out enough heat for heavy cable, but I am assuming the blowtorch would not be appropriate anywhere near a lipo.
John
Is it safe / practical to re-solder the lead to the lipo? I have not done it before and would appreciate any advice on how to best go about it. I usually use a small gas blowtorch for soldering connectors to cable as my electric iron seems to struggle to put out enough heat for heavy cable, but I am assuming the blowtorch would not be appropriate anywhere near a lipo.
John
#2
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Soldering Lipos
Hi John, It's been my experience to exercise EXTREME CAUTION when attempting any repair to a lipo battery. Personally, I would invest in a good soldering gun, find some qualified assistance and last but not least, AVOID the use of a blowtorch around any type of battery. Just my thoughts, Everette
#3
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Soldering Lipos
Hi john,
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction, but I can say that my Weller dual-temp soldering gun heats 8-12 Gage wire and connectors in about one second. I think its 120-180 Watts, or somewhere thereabout.
If I were to attempt this myself, I would use a high power soldering gun. Low power will allow time for heat to travel where you don't need it. A torch may or may not do the same.
Good luck, and keep us posted so we all can learn from this experience.
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction, but I can say that my Weller dual-temp soldering gun heats 8-12 Gage wire and connectors in about one second. I think its 120-180 Watts, or somewhere thereabout.
If I were to attempt this myself, I would use a high power soldering gun. Low power will allow time for heat to travel where you don't need it. A torch may or may not do the same.
Good luck, and keep us posted so we all can learn from this experience.
#4
My Feedback: (92)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Rosamond, CA
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Soldering Lipos
If it came off the tab on the LiPo cell, do not solder it with regular solder. From what I know, that is aluminum. You need special aluminum solder and flux. My friend Mike Greear got what you need and he has been doing that type of soldering. Happens most often with a balance lead, not the main power lead.
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: glasgowScotland, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 2,081
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
RE: Soldering Lipos
Guys
Thanks for the advice, I decided to call my Lipo supplier and he advised the following-
Cut out a 1cm square section of the heatshrink around the connection point to expose the soldered joint, place non metallic tape around the square cut out to pevent any solder running onto the adjacent cell and causing a short. re-tin the cable end and the joint on the Lipo with solder, place the cable on the joint and apply the soldering iron to the tinned end of the cable, as soon as the solder flows remove the iron, test the joint, Tape over the cut out in the heatshrink.
Well I followed these instructions and it went exactly as advised, I have re-charged the pack and it seems to be fine, hope this helps anyone with a similiar problem.
TonyF BTW I just used ordinary solder, there was no tab as such on the Lipo that I could see, just an area of solder.
John
Thanks for the advice, I decided to call my Lipo supplier and he advised the following-
Cut out a 1cm square section of the heatshrink around the connection point to expose the soldered joint, place non metallic tape around the square cut out to pevent any solder running onto the adjacent cell and causing a short. re-tin the cable end and the joint on the Lipo with solder, place the cable on the joint and apply the soldering iron to the tinned end of the cable, as soon as the solder flows remove the iron, test the joint, Tape over the cut out in the heatshrink.
Well I followed these instructions and it went exactly as advised, I have re-charged the pack and it seems to be fine, hope this helps anyone with a similiar problem.
TonyF BTW I just used ordinary solder, there was no tab as such on the Lipo that I could see, just an area of solder.
John
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern Occupied Mexico,
CA
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Soldering Lipos
ORIGINAL: gaRCfield
Hi john,
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction,
Hi john,
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction,
As far as the soldering goes I've had a few break myself. I've yet to be successful at reattaching any leads with the AL paste.
#8
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Soldering Lipos
ORIGINAL: 1320Fastback
Auto correct strikes again
As far as the soldering goes I've had a few break myself. I've yet to be successful at reattaching any leads with the AL paste.
ORIGINAL: gaRCfield
Hi john,
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction,
Hi john,
I'm not qualified to talk about soldering liposuction,
As far as the soldering goes I've had a few break myself. I've yet to be successful at reattaching any leads with the AL paste.