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  1. #1

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    burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    Need your help in solving my problem, Burned 2 Castle 80HV2 ESC’s in few days. My setup is Pletty Advance with 20.5x14.5 Falcon V2 on JL Neptuno using Rhino 4900Mah batts. I have been using the CC 80HV2 for more than 50 flights suddenly deadstick, when I land the plane it has burning smell and no power. ESC looks normal but it has a strong burned smell. Plug my new CC 80HV2 the next day and flew 6 flights on my 7th flight motor skeech after few minutes of flying. I landed and check the temp of the ESC and Motor, temp is normal. Restored the settings to factory setting and reprogramed the ESC again, flew the plane 4 mins and plane got deadstick again. The ESC has no burned smell and has normal temperature. My settings was 10 degress on the timing and 8khz on the PWM. My friend told me that timing should be 20 degress and PWM should be on the outrunner mode.

    I already ordered Futaba MC9100A ESC, but I wanted to fix this problem before installing the new ESC’s.

    Thanks guys.


  2. #2

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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    first off it would help to know how many amps you are pulling. Your PWM setting of 8 is optimal for sport and mild aerobatics. Timing is a matter of choice. To much advance could lead to the motor overheating, but probably not the ESc. I'd sooner think you've got a cooling problem. My experience is the the CC HV series are quite sensitive to overheating.

    I don't remember ever seeing an inrunner/outrunner selection on an /esc. Number of poles, yes. I've has some problems in the past with pole count on Hacker/Pletty motors.
    Walt
    WT in Illinois

  3. #3
    Jetdesign's Avatar
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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    You MUST make sure you are getting advice from guys running Castle ESC's. If you look, you will find that recommended settings for some motors have an asterisk (*) saying the the settings are different on Castle ESC's.

    Typical settings for a Castle ESC and pattern flying use are for LOW timing (5 degrees) and Outrunner or 8khz on the PWM.

    The Castle ESC WILL AUTOMATICALLY ADJUST TIMING as it sees fit. When you set the timing to low, this is not an absolute setting. If the ESC sees opportunity to run at 20 degrees efficiently and effectively, it will do so.

    I was talking to a guy at a contest a few weeks ago who had problems with screeching and operability, and people were telling him to ADVANCE his timing. If you read the Hacker motor specs, it says something like 20 degrees for the timing. THIS IS NOT THE PROPER SETTING FOR CASTLE ESC's. You should start with LOW timing and adjust from there, if need be.

    Adjust your settings to LOW timing, 8KHZ pwm, 20% brake, SOFT motor start, LOW throttle response.

    The Advance is technically an in-runner, but it shares some similar operating parameters as an outrunner.
    Joe Marri
    Enjoying all things aviation.

  4. #4

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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    My brake setting is 30% and soft start. I downloaded the data logging of my ESC before is broke down, its here in my excell file can you interpret it. Saw the graph in the castle link the maximun amperes is 100, max temp 116

  5. #5

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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    When did the failure occur? Was it during arming or was it during flight? I killed several when arming them.
    For some reason, I found that their ESC does not like to be armed by connecting the negative battery terminal. By this I mean that in order to arm the ESC, you should connect the positive terminal.
    When you connect your batteries to the ESC, plug the negative terminal into the ESC and do not connect the positive. When you arm the ESC make sure that the positive is connected last. Since I started doing this I have not had another failure. I never had one "burn up" when connecting the ground lead to arm the ESC. But I had what appears to be a microprocessor failure when doing this.
    Team BJCraft

  6. #6
    nonstoprc's Avatar
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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    Also make sure the max DC current is within the limit (e.g., through a Watts meter). To do so, the current limiting option on CC programming app should not be set to "unlimited", and on your radio, adjust the throttle high ATV so that the MAX DC current is within the limit.
    Where facts are few, experts are many.
    Perfection is God\'\'\'\'s business.

  7. #7

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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    I might be 100% wrong but I figured the CC current limit thingy which has been around long before CC esc's were measuring and logging the input current, just looked at the ripple voltage. Too much ripple meant the packs couldn't handle the current you were asking from them and you were putting the filter capacitors at risk of overheating and popping. This is something which could happen even if you were drawing much less than the rated current carrying capacity of the controller.

    Looking at the data provided it would seem that you're within the current handling specs for the controller, with current values reaching mid to high 60's ? Not having owned one of these ESC's I couldn't comment if the temperature values are reasonable.

    Arming plug in negative or positive wire? I'm going to enjoy mulling over this one :-)




  8. #8
    nonstoprc's Avatar
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    RE: burned 2 ESC in few days, help me solve my problem

    Checking with a watts meter for a full throttle run on the ground can tell the actual current it is pulling.

    It may not be the same as in the air. But quite close.
    Where facts are few, experts are many.
    Perfection is God\'\'\'\'s business.


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    All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:35 PM.

    SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
    5
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