BJCraft BISIDE
10-17-2013, 10:42 PM
#276
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I am now (after hesitating for a really long time to put it on) liking the 21 13.5 prop on my Nuance. I've had it for a long time, just didn't think I wanted to change from the 21x14. I tried the 20x15 on it, didn't like it. The 21x 13.5 doesn't really seem slower, but uses less mah for some reason. I am really liking the pace now. Not slow at all, but more constant. Hope I can make Arvin to see it fly it you are going Steve. I seem to have had very little work for the past 4 months, so affording contests is hard. Love the look of the Biside! Hope to get one at some point if work picks up.
Chris
Chris
10-21-2013, 08:21 AM
#279
I use the JR 8411. I replaced the metal gears with plastic. The performance is very good. I have always liked this servo and I use it on ailerons and rudder on my Episode and Nuance. I chose this because it has very good centering, good torque, and the speed is about right for the flying stab. You must have a servo which has very good holding and centering at neutral. The speed is not as critical, so you do not need to have a servo which is faster than about .15sec.
10-21-2013, 03:07 PM
#281
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It should be enough, if you read BJ's blog on setup for the flying stab your first priority is a servo with good centering, speed and torque don't have to be actually very high. Also remember that the control horn on the stab is two and a half times longer than the servo arm.
10-23-2013, 09:08 AM
#284
Hello Peter,
I changed to a plastic gear train based upon opinion of other fliers. I had heard that the plastic gear train will not develop any significant "play" over time and is smoother in operation than the metal gear. I had used the metal gear 8411 without any problems on ailerons and rudder in other airplanes but I wanted to try the plastic gears to see if it will hold up without getting loose around center. Over time I had seen 8411's develop looseness around center in my larger IMAC planes, but that was with a lot of vibration. So, I guess this was more of an experiment on my part and it seemed to make logical sense to me.
I changed to a plastic gear train based upon opinion of other fliers. I had heard that the plastic gear train will not develop any significant "play" over time and is smoother in operation than the metal gear. I had used the metal gear 8411 without any problems on ailerons and rudder in other airplanes but I wanted to try the plastic gears to see if it will hold up without getting loose around center. Over time I had seen 8411's develop looseness around center in my larger IMAC planes, but that was with a lot of vibration. So, I guess this was more of an experiment on my part and it seemed to make logical sense to me.
10-23-2013, 11:21 PM
#286
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Hallo,
does someone have a drawing for the firewall for installation of a Q80 engine ?
Someone startet with 86 mm diameter; is the the final diameter?
Regards and thank´s
PW
does someone have a drawing for the firewall for installation of a Q80 engine ?
Someone startet with 86 mm diameter; is the the final diameter?
Regards and thank´s
PW
Last edited by P. Wessels; 10-24-2013 at 05:52 AM.
10-25-2013, 11:39 AM
#287
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Hi Shannah.
do you have a front picture of the plane ? Si to see the cooling cuttings at the front and left and right at the fuselage ?
Must I do the plywood parts modification at the pylon or can I do this ?
Do you have any measurment where to put this plywood pieces ; distance from the front of the pylon to the beginning of the plywood part ?
Would be great and thanks
PW
do you have a front picture of the plane ? Si to see the cooling cuttings at the front and left and right at the fuselage ?
Must I do the plywood parts modification at the pylon or can I do this ?
Do you have any measurment where to put this plywood pieces ; distance from the front of the pylon to the beginning of the plywood part ?
Would be great and thanks
PW
10-25-2013, 06:43 PM
#288
Hello Peter,
Here are a couple pics of the front so you can see the openings. Use the templates that he provided and just hold them in place on the fuselage and mark the outline.
I have not installed the top wing brace yet. I did not see that it was necessary since B.J. flew his prototype for 500 flights without it. It is just to help in picking up the plane by the top wing. I know that some people were speculating that the wing would rotate around the center bolt causing the aileron trim to change or causing some other bad effect. However, I have not seen any such problem of the wing rotating. I have not touched my aileron trim since my initial trim flight with the plane and it flies very consistently. Therefore, I see no need to bother with this extra piece. I do not pick up my plane by the top wing. I simply roll it on the ground like you would a larger airplane. It is no problem.
Here are a couple pics of the front so you can see the openings. Use the templates that he provided and just hold them in place on the fuselage and mark the outline.
I have not installed the top wing brace yet. I did not see that it was necessary since B.J. flew his prototype for 500 flights without it. It is just to help in picking up the plane by the top wing. I know that some people were speculating that the wing would rotate around the center bolt causing the aileron trim to change or causing some other bad effect. However, I have not seen any such problem of the wing rotating. I have not touched my aileron trim since my initial trim flight with the plane and it flies very consistently. Therefore, I see no need to bother with this extra piece. I do not pick up my plane by the top wing. I simply roll it on the ground like you would a larger airplane. It is no problem.
10-25-2013, 06:52 PM
#289
Hello Peter,
I just realized that perhaps you were talking about the spacers that fit directly under the wing. You must use those parts. The wing will not sit on the pylon properly without them.
I first glued the separate pieces together to make a single part. Then I glued it to the center pylon. The spacer is 28mm from the front of the pylon. B.J. recommended gluing this to the wing, but I think it is fine to put it onto the pylon instead. I actually think it helps in mounting the top wing if this part is attached to the pylon. It helps align the center wing bolt with the blind nut as you assemble the airplane. I find that the hole drilled in this spacer for the bolt really helps to center the bolt so that you do not cross thread the bolt when attaching the wing. Hope this makes sense to you.
Steve
I just realized that perhaps you were talking about the spacers that fit directly under the wing. You must use those parts. The wing will not sit on the pylon properly without them.
I first glued the separate pieces together to make a single part. Then I glued it to the center pylon. The spacer is 28mm from the front of the pylon. B.J. recommended gluing this to the wing, but I think it is fine to put it onto the pylon instead. I actually think it helps in mounting the top wing if this part is attached to the pylon. It helps align the center wing bolt with the blind nut as you assemble the airplane. I find that the hole drilled in this spacer for the bolt really helps to center the bolt so that you do not cross thread the bolt when attaching the wing. Hope this makes sense to you.
Steve
10-26-2013, 08:10 AM
#291
Hello Peter,
Here is a pic of the wing mounting piece. I cut a hole in it so that the top wing servos leads could pass through.
In order to install this piece in the proper location, here is what I did
1. Glue all of the pieces together so that you have one assembly. Make sure it is flat on the bottom. You will notice that the pieces have a slight curvature which matches the wing airfoil. Obviously, this airfoil shape is what contacts the wing and the flat part goes on the pylon
2. Install bottom wing and the cabane struts.
3. place the top wing onto the cabane struts and tighten the cabane bolts. Do not place the plywood mounting piece on the pylon yet and do not install the center bolt.
4. You will see a gap between the top wing and the pylon.
5. Slide the plywood mounting piece onto the pylon and move it forward towards the nose until it is just touching the bottom of the wing. It will fit perfectly when it is in the proper position
6. Mark the forward location of the plywood piece
7. Remove the top wing
8. Temporarily secure this plywood piece and mark the holes for the wing bolt and the aileron servo leads. You can remove it and cut the holes. If I recall correctly, I marked the wing bolt hole in this piece by putting the top wing on and inserting the bolt into the wing so that it would mark the wood as I pressed it in place.
9. Glue the piece in place. I wanted to be sure that all was well in this step so I first put some masking tape on the pylon and glued the wood piece to the masking tape. That would allow me to move it if necessary. You can see the blue tape in the pic
B.J. suggested to put the wood piece on the wing, but I actually like it on the pylon. I have not moved it since my initial installation. It seems that everything lined up just as it was supposed to.
Please excuse the rough nature of the hole. I have not bothered to clean it up since I made the opening....
Here is a pic of the wing mounting piece. I cut a hole in it so that the top wing servos leads could pass through.
In order to install this piece in the proper location, here is what I did
1. Glue all of the pieces together so that you have one assembly. Make sure it is flat on the bottom. You will notice that the pieces have a slight curvature which matches the wing airfoil. Obviously, this airfoil shape is what contacts the wing and the flat part goes on the pylon
2. Install bottom wing and the cabane struts.
3. place the top wing onto the cabane struts and tighten the cabane bolts. Do not place the plywood mounting piece on the pylon yet and do not install the center bolt.
4. You will see a gap between the top wing and the pylon.
5. Slide the plywood mounting piece onto the pylon and move it forward towards the nose until it is just touching the bottom of the wing. It will fit perfectly when it is in the proper position
6. Mark the forward location of the plywood piece
7. Remove the top wing
8. Temporarily secure this plywood piece and mark the holes for the wing bolt and the aileron servo leads. You can remove it and cut the holes. If I recall correctly, I marked the wing bolt hole in this piece by putting the top wing on and inserting the bolt into the wing so that it would mark the wood as I pressed it in place.
9. Glue the piece in place. I wanted to be sure that all was well in this step so I first put some masking tape on the pylon and glued the wood piece to the masking tape. That would allow me to move it if necessary. You can see the blue tape in the pic
B.J. suggested to put the wood piece on the wing, but I actually like it on the pylon. I have not moved it since my initial installation. It seems that everything lined up just as it was supposed to.
Please excuse the rough nature of the hole. I have not bothered to clean it up since I made the opening....
Last edited by shannah; 10-26-2013 at 10:41 AM.
10-27-2013, 07:35 PM
#292
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I am just starting to work on my plane and I found the two holes for the servo lead outlets on the bottom wing but i am not finding them on the top wing. Am I just overlooking them or did they fail to put them on the top wing? Any help or pics of what others have done would be helpful.
10-28-2013, 06:59 AM
#294
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Hallo,
which 4,8-6 V JR servo (no HV) would you suggest for elevator ?
Shannah changed 8411 from metall gear to plastic; I think we must use a servo with "no play in the gear"
Normally we are running the SAVÖX 1256 SA; a good and strange servo, but with metall gear it has a little bit "play" in the centre.
Regards
PW
which 4,8-6 V JR servo (no HV) would you suggest for elevator ?
Shannah changed 8411 from metall gear to plastic; I think we must use a servo with "no play in the gear"
Normally we are running the SAVÖX 1256 SA; a good and strange servo, but with metall gear it has a little bit "play" in the centre.
Regards
PW
10-31-2013, 03:37 PM
#299
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8717 is metal gears. I don't think you'll like that servo in a pattern model. I tried one and I thought it was just a bit nervous. It is very good on cyclic in a helicopter, which is what it is intended. But I didn't like it in a pattern plane.