Stuart Chale

I really liked the look of the Mythos when it first showed up on the Internet over 1 year ago. I liked the way it looked in the air as well on videos (flown by top quality pilots of course). Unfortunately it never made it to the US until now. Thanks to Mike and Chris at F3A Unlimited I just received my White and blue version. Unfortunately due to having to work, it sat at Fed Ex for 2 days before I could get it. The plane probably will not fly to next season so what's 2 extra days right?

Not sure when I will get to the build but I thought I would post some pictures and weights for anyone interested in the plane.

The shipping box is big and awkward, much more so than the shipping boxes used for the BJ Parks planes. Careful carrying it, I hurt my back bringing it inside. Inside the outside box is another box. This is a real sturdy box made out of 1/2" or so cardboard. Even though there were some tears in the outside cardboard box the inner one was perfect.

The plane is well packed in the box but not as tightly as some others. Parts are separated by cardboard spacers glued to foam sheeting lining the box. The wings and stabs come in the standard silver wing bags.

Stuart C.

Stuart Chale

The fuse is all painted. Pretty nice job. Not quite at Oxai quality but pretty nice. The cannalyzer is painted as well. The canopy/cannalyzer pair is held to the fuse with 3 screws, 2 on the sides and one through the back of the cannalyzer. Not sure I am going to leave it like this. 3 screws seems like a lot to do before and after each flight.

Wing incidence is not adjustable. I have always had adjusters on all of my planes so I may modify this one as well. Not sure yet.

There is very little inner structure to the fuse. A few formers in the rear of the fuse. Rudder servo plate and battery mounting are fully left up to you. Unfortunately there are no holes for the rudder control wires either. I prefer when they are placed by the factory.

The cutouts for air intake are already done for you as is a molded exhaust scoop in the fuse. (Even Oxai makes you cut these your self). The landing gear attachment points are molded to match the gear fairings.

The Rudder is covered and not painted. The covering of the rudder has some issues (the wing and stabs are fine) The rudder has the standard Sebart flare at the trailing edge and the covering is not stuck well in some of the concave areas. A pulled away area of covering on the back of the rudder was also present. Based on the rudder shape I would think that it really should be painted instead of being covered with film.

The fuse weighs 748 gms, the canopy 114, the cannalyzer 112, and the rudder 52

Stuart Chale

Stuart Chale

Stuart Chale

Hinging on the plane is done with small Hinge points that look like the Robart hinges. The rudder has 4 hinges. On the rudder post shown there are wooden blocks on the top and bottom hinge that hold the hinge at the proper location. There is none on the middle 2. I am not sure if they are missing or it is designed this way.

Stuart Chale

The wing and stab are pretty nice. Nice pattern and better than average covering compared to the other Sebart planes I have owned, (50 sized). The curved leading edge of the wing and stab is interesting. There are a few wrinkles but hopefully everything will iron down easily. The wing is pretty thin, the stab seems about average. Servo mounts are standard for the wing and mounted inside the stabs with the servo arms sticking up. Both the wing tube and stab tube are made from carbon fiber. The wings are shipped with a piece of ply to protect the trailing edge of the root. Even so both of mine show a little crease. I think I would prefer forgoing the delicate wing root trailing edge extensions. I doubt that they do much aerodynamically.

The left wing weighs 332 gms, the right 338
The left stab is 114 the right is 112 gms.
The wing tube is 88 gms and the stab tube 8 gms.

The ailerons and elevators are hinged into a recessed pocket.

Stuart Chale

The landing gear weigh 168 gms for the pair and the wheel pants are 34 gms for the pair. The wheel pants have nice molded in recesses to align them to the gear.

Total weight for all of the parts without hardware is 2280 grams.

Stuart Chale

The plane also comes with an 82 mm white spinner with a lightened aluminum back plate, similar to the Great Planes spinners. The hardware pack includes wheels, a tail wheel, ball links etc.
Quality looks pretty good.

In addition there is a piece of fiber glassed balsa to use for the battery tray and rudder tray (I assume). A pair of wing strakes and a very sturdy looking stick plane. I have been in need of a stick plane anyway. Might as well get a pattern plane with it.

All in all I am pretty impressed with the quality of the kit.

Stuart

SAB

Stuart,

Nice initial report on the Mythos 2M - I'm currently flying the Mythos 125 & in the process of building the Wind 2M - The wind 2M & Mythos 2M share the same fuz I believe. The rudder hinge "issue" you mention in post 5 is the same on the Wind 2M. Most seem to replace the hinges with genuine Robart hinge points as some say the supplied hinges quickly get sloppy. Have you read the Wind 2M thread? - Link attached.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/elec...ind-s-pro.html

Steve

Stuart Chale

Actually I don't think I had at least not in a while so I will. Thank you for the link. Searching the web there doesn't seem to be too much info on the 2M version of the Mythos, at least not in English

Stuart

danlandis

Hi Stuart,

I have been flying my Mythos 2M all season and love them. They fly great!

Dan Landis

bem

My Feedback: (1)

There is also a "deluxe" version of MythoS 2M with painted wing+stab avaliable on special order.
Close to US $4000 what I have heard.

/Bo

Stuart Chale

Saw that on the web. Looks to be a step up in the quality of the paint finish. I am happy with the finish on the standard kit with the exception that I think the rudder should be painted. The covering job on the wings and stab looks pretty good.

danlandis

I have close to 600 flights on my two that have covered wings and stabs and have not had any issues. That did a great job with the covering and painting on mine.

Dan

Stuart Chale

I finally have been able to start putting this plane together. I first had to clean up the workshop, well half of it anyway, and pack away one of my older 2M ships (Pinnacle E) to make room for this one. Luckily I kept the original Oxai shipping crates.

Before starting the build thread I have to say that the instruction manual supplied and online is really pretty good. Better than most. It really covers most of the build pretty well.

I always start by getting the plane on it's feet. The main gear are probably the easiest I have done. The wheel pants have deeply molded sockets for the gear legs. There is very little slop so it pre-aligns when you put it together and very little adjustment is needed. Usually I have to glue in a ply plate for a blind nut for the alignment screw. Sebart uses one bolt that is the wheel axel and holds the pant to the gear. I usually swap the wheel axels for NMP aluminum axels but the included hardware was not heavy and very simple.

The only adjustment I had to make was to open the 2 holes on one of the gear legs on the fuse side to allow the gear fairing to sit closer to the fuse. Each gear leg is held on by 2 bolts. The blind nuts are pre-installed.

I usually would use the MK tail wheel but I used the included setup instead. It seems to be nicely made and not overweight although I forgot to weigh it before installing. A single 6mm hole is all that needs to be drilled before gluing it in place. If you don't have a 6 mm drill bit then a 15/64" bit will work. A 6mm bit would be nice to have though as you can use it in other places like cleaning up the forward horizontal stab alignment pin hole. Mine had a good bit of paint in it.

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Guys we have a good supply of this in stock now for immediate delivery. Call me for special pricing.
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore...roducts_id=816

or
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore...roducts_id=817

Thanks, Mike Mueller
New owner of F3AUnlimited.com
1 800 591 2875 MF 9 to 5 CST or email me at
[email protected]

randy10926

My Feedback: (19)

So how did it turn out. I have the 125e version and I wonder if they fly alike. I am almost done (last drop of epoxy curing ATM) on a Vanquish, but I already am wondering if it is going to be any better than the Mythos 125e. If it ain't then I am going to need something else for the Nats this year.

Randy

bem

My Feedback: (1)

randy10926,

Maybe my thread of MythoS Pro (that also contain a comparison of MythoS 125E) could be of some help to You:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2160324

/Bo

Stuart Chale

This thread has sat unfinished for long enough. So has the plane. Real life gets in the way too often. After missing most of the season 2 years ago remodeling my kitchen I had to continue into the dining room and game/media room this winter into summer. How come these home projects take 5X as long as projected
At least my wife is happy with the results and the game/media room is pretty nice. New wood, floors, paint, molding etc. The game room portion is 4 pinball machines. Had 5 but gave one to my brother (it was his initially). The media room portion is a new 75" 4K Samsung TV with surround sound (not yet hooked up). So this room is pretty cool for the whole family.
Lots of modeling skills can go into detail work on wood floors and molding. The coolest part was making up the crown molding. A 2 piece molding using a wood base molding and foam type molded crown section. How do you join them quickly (almost 100 feet worth)? UFO foam safe Hot Stuff of course. 2 2oz. bottles. I use an HVLP turbine setup sprayer to paint all of my moldings before installing them. The same outfit I use to spray clear on the airplane painted parts or pinball playfields

Stuart Chale

Some finished pictures (almost)

Stuart Chale

Although I have been flying this year it has not been as much as I would like only getting out once a week if the weather cooperates. Luckily I have been very happy with my Beryll with the Contra Drive on it so I was in no real rush to finish the Mythos. But now that the game room is done (area rug comes tomorrow, still fighting with furniture store to replace the piers that go to either side of the TV base unit) I can get the Mythos finished and hopefully test flown this Saturday weather permitting.

I actually did get a few additional items done before putting the build on hold. I hinged the wings and stabs and installed servos and linkages in the stabs.
The plane comes with a form of hinge points that I thought were rather flimsy and a little bit sloppy. I switched to Robart hinge points. The only issue is that they are a little larger in Diameter and the holes need to be opened a little using a drill and square needle file. Care is needed not to split the hinge mounting when doing this, but the Robart hinges can be made to fit without too much effort. I use Gorilla Glue on the hinge points. Moisten the holes, add a little glue with a toothpick or small dowel and push them in. I really like the way it works in this application.

I had a couple of JR 3421SA servos that I never used so installed them in the stabs. A little tight to insert but fits the spacing. I used the linkages supplied by Sebart, ball links seem slop free at the moment.
Interesting that they provide an adjustment mechanism for stab incidence, 2 set screws top and bottom on the front alignment pin, but the wing incidence is not adjustable.

Stuart Chale

That was pretty much as far as I had gotten before putting it away. Last week I pulled it out, dusted it off and pulled the Contra out of my Beryll to fit it in the Mythos and ordered a few items to complete the build (I hope).

I started with mounting the Contra. This will be the 3rd plane that I have mounted one in and although there are many ways to do it I am pretty comfortable using the provided CF firewall piece and the triangular motor mounting plate separated by Budd Engineering rubber isolators. The triangular mounting plate I received with the Contra was CF. The new one I purchased was aluminum. I drill out the larger firewall section for the rubber isolators and mount the aluminum plate in front. I made a template to open up the nose ring of the aircraft to fairly snuggly fit the rear portion of the contra drive. This allows me to keep the motor centered, so as I cut away the firewall to fit the motor ends up in the right place.

I simply install the motor/mount unit from the inside and keep cutting away areas that contact the fuse until I can push the unit in a little further than I need to go. I want it a little loose so final positioning doesn't cause the firewall to bulge out the fuse sides. Using the contra drive itself and spacers I find a final position for the mount. I choose to keep the standard downthrust molded into the plane to start but of course took out the right thrust. To make sure the motor is mounted at 0 degree rt. thrust I use a straight piece of plywood drilled out to fit the contra. Then measuring back to the wing tube on each side and double checking using a laser cross level I can figure out what shims I need between the contra and nose ring to mount it correctly.

The firewall is mounted with Aeropoxy (Hysol) and once hardened additional filets of it are added front and back.

Stuart Chale

Once I have the mount glued in the nose ring needs to be opened further to allow the Contra to run as the rear section rotates. It also needs to be opened up if you want to remove the triangular plate through the front of the fuse. I have also found that I need to grind down one of the points of the triangle to be able to remove it.

Stuart Chale

I use a Budd Engineering rear support mounted to the fuse sides with pieces of glassed end grain balsa, a nice stiff light weight material. 2x56 screws and blind nuts hold it in place. I used the support ring to hold its supports in place while the epoxy hardened. For most of general construction like this I use 30 minute epoxy mixed with micro balloons. (the brown coloration.) The micro balloons lighten the epoxy, thicken it and still it will be stronger than most anything it is being used to glue.

Stuart Chale

The instructions show two options for the rudder servo location. Direct connection mounted in the rear of the fuse or in the forward fuse using cables. I prefer cables keeping the servo out of the tail. The manual shows a mid rudder location for the rudder horn with the cable installation above the stab, but examining the rudder shows no block in that position to glue the horns to, just a rib. The lower horn location has twin slots for a horn to surround the ball link. I really did not want to cut open the rudder especially since I do not have the matching blue covering so I had to use the lower horn mounts. The spacing between the upper an lower control horns is much greater than the width of the ball links provided. In fact I ended up adjusting the spacing using a standoff from a Hanger 9 ball link and 2 washers on the other side. I choose to use the double horn as the gluing surface for a single horn was a bit limited. The manual shows horns with longer tangs but that is not what I received.

As mentioned on the initial posts there is no hinge point supports on the rudder post for the center two hinges. Not clear why especially with the flimsy hinges they supply. I made up new ones trying to match the size and shape of the ones provided.