wagen017

I had my first bearing failure on a Evo 30-10 after 180 flights. I think that had to do with corrosion of the bearing due to the fact the plane is stored in my garage where also a dryer was which put a lot of humidity in the air. I fixed that by swapping the dryer to another type.

Now after 500 flights the bearing again is showing wear. Any recommendations/thoughts/experience by other flyers?

Volkert

Henning

My old 30-10 Evo is currently at service at Plettenberg in Germany for bearing replacement. The motor has approx 500 flights. The main bearing had a ticking sound when I turned the motor by hand. 500 flights without maintenance of the motor is to me acceptable.



Regards,
Henning

klhoard

My Feedback: (10)

.
Try to do that with a YS . . .
.

apereira

Try to have the low end torque of a YS with a Plettenberg..... What a joke. Why had 300+ flights without bearing failure.

Volkert,

As Henning said, 500 flights on a bearing is very good, those are cheap parts anyway, I will suggest just to check it as you did and change them when you have signs of wear, that being noisy bearings, feeling abnormal steps in the bearing, rust or any play. i do that on my Hacker or any other bearing.

Best regards

Alejandro P.

Dave Harmon

Hey guys......
My 30-10 is at the factory for replacement of some bent parts.
It had exactly 100 flights and the bearings felt ok.
My question is......can the bearings be replaced easily without shipping to Germany?
Is there any special tools needed for the job or what???
Any comments are welcome.

wagen017

I hope somebody can answer the question from Dave. I know how to do it on a OS-160, but that method would not work on a Pletty!

Progress on my side: I used a bottle of compressed air to blow dust out of the bearing. It is much better now and will hopefully get me thru the next contests which are all planned in September. So Tip#1: use some compressed air every 100 or so flights to blow out any dust coming out of the bearing.

Hopefully we will collect some more tips.

There must be people out there that have flown a lot more then this on a Pletty. Please share your experience!!

Volkert

wagen017

now the motor is really difficult to rotate by hand. I know if I power it up it will loosen a bit (temperature) but does not seem safe to fly anymore.

There must be more bearing failures. 500 flights is not that much.

Are you able to replace the bearing easily yourself? Do you need any special measures to do it? Better to send it to Plettenberg?

Would appreciate some advice here!

thanks.

Volkert

wagen017

Well, I took apart the Evo30-10, not that hard.

After the weekend the shop is open which sells bearings, so then I can see if I can put it back together again! [sm=surprised.gif]

Volkert

rm

My Feedback: (27)

The phillips screws on the side of the can holds everything together?

What size bearing is it?

wagen017

yes, those tiny screws are all it hold together! I did not measure the bearing since what I have is not really reliable to measure.

The bearing reads on the side Japan, SMT, 6806Z

Volkert

dando

Guys, the bearings in my Evo 30-9 are:
SMT 6806Z Japan, OD=42mm, ID=30mm, h=7mm
equivalents: 6806-2Z (shielded), 6806RS (rubber sealed), 61806RS1 and 6806-2RS

NMB L-1680HH Singapore, OD=16mm, ID=8mm, h=5mm
equivalents: 688-2Z

Good luck!

Nickolay

Dave Harmon

Volkert.....
Thanks for the picture and the info.
That will help a lot when it comes time to replace these bearings.

Nickolay......
Thanks for the measurements and mfgr part numbers.
This info will help everyone that needs to replace these bearings.

In my case, my motor had to go back to the factory to replace bent parts.
I did my best to dig a hole in the ground with it on it's 100th flight.
I hope they change the bearings!

Thanks guys!!

wagen017

Dave, I had a similar experience unfortunately with my Advance with some serious damage. Plettenberg does a really nice job repairing the motor. So if it is feasable they will do a good job. If they haven't started yet you can always drop an email to them to ask for bearing replacement as well. I would do that!

Nickolay, many thanks, perfect info!

Volkert

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Just curious how the bearing is popped out. Does the trick with those on glow engines apply?

wagen017

after dismantling the motor and the rotor out (which comes out easily) the inner edge of the bearing is visible from the backside. I just hammered it out, just soft taps going round the bearing. It comes then out pretty easily. Now I have cleaned the seat (of where the bearing sat) with some scotch brite and it should go back in OK again.

Tomorrow I should have the new bearing if it is available and then we will know !

Volkert

wagen017

So this morning bought the bearing. Good news is it was on stock, however a good quality bearing is expensive, 42€ I paid. We will see long run if, and how much better it is then the stock bearing (SMT).

The bearing is AKN 61806-2Z

As mentioned above I cleaned the seating of the bearing well. In principle I slowly bit by bit put the bearing in place in the housing, which is a tight fit but no problem. Did not need any tools. Then the rotor in place and then build up the motor again.

So no problem at all getting the bearing in; all in all a 5 minute job. The little screws which hold the can I used a bit of locktite to ensure they stay in place.

Motor is running very smooth now!

I read on the Hacker C50 thread a recommendation to replace the bearings after 300 flights. Maybe that is not such a bad advice as well on the Plettenberg if you want to ensure the motor always runs perfect. With hindsight I am sure at least the last 50-100 flights the bearing was not 100% anymore.

So conclusion: bearing change on a Plettenberg EVO30-10 is in total a 10 minute job and not difficult to do. Cost is quite high, maybe there are cheaper alternatives, but what about the quality?

I would still like to see if there are flyers who have flown more then 1000 flights and could let us know their experiences.

Volkert

wagen017

So I checked some Japanese sites (long live webpage translators!) and the SMT 6806Z is a chrome steel bearing you can buy in Japan for 8€.

At Boca bearings a chrome steel bearing retails at 29.95$, stainless steel at 49.95$. The AKN bearing is stainless steel as well so indeed that should be higher quality.

I am curious to see in our application what difference this will make in lifetime.

Volkert

rm

My Feedback: (27)

Here's chrome steel for $5

http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/p...2e48ea7675333b

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Thanks for the info.

Volkert, seems the job is not that hard and messy. Another plus for going electric!

wagen017

After one flight I had a sort of metallic cling/clang sound. Was afraid a magnet or something had come loose. At home I opened the motor but could not find anything.

I first used some 600 grid sandpaper to clean the outside of the rotor (just to be sure there was nothing scraping the can) and then thoroughly cleaned both rotor and can (which holds the magnets) using a toothbrush. Then re-assembled making sure to touch the can as little as possible with the rotor (which is very difficult due to the strong pull of the magnets).

Today did 6 flights, perfect now, all solved. So, make sure you work very clean when assembling the motor to ensure no debri is left inside. Sounds logical but seems it isn't. I thought I had done well enough the first time.

Volkert

dando

Hello!
I've got a rewound Plettenberg Xtra 30-9 EVO II and I'd like to replace the bearings. I bought new ones and the smaller, front one, came out easily, but the rear larger bearing seems to be pressed very tightly around the metal ring. I tried to get it out with my vice and some wooden blocks but the ring got bent. It is now fixed, but the bearing is still there. I heard that heating the ring with a torch would make it easier to knock the bearing out. Another option is to buy a new ring and press the new bearing in.
My other question is a bit off-topic. Has anybody tested the motor with no prop? I rewound mine and seems to be getting warmer near the old, rear bearing, which seems to be worn out. Here is my thread on RCgroups.. In post #41 I've described the problem in details.
Could anyone give me an advice?

Thanks,
Nickolay

wagen017

You mean the big bearing is stuck in the can? Would not use a torch!

Volkert

dando

No, not in the rotor (bell). Using heat there would destroy the magnets (I think they are rated ~80 degrees Celcius).
Please refer to the picture below. The bearing is very tight around the part with the holes (which I call "ring", maybe inaccurately).

Thanks!
Nickolay

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

You may need a puller or pusher to get the bearing out.

Could not figure the boundary of the bearing. If there are pictures shooting from different angles, it might be helpful.

dando

Here are a few more images of the ring and bearing joined together. On one of them, the red elipse shows the boundary between the two.
The inner diameter of the bearing is 30 mm. In post #8, you could see Volkert's picture, which shows the shape of the ring. It is 30 mm in diameter where the bearing should be sitting. Then widens to around 32 mm (if I remember correctly) to prevent the bearing from moving towards the stator teeth.
As mentioned, I tried to separate the ring and bearing with a couple of round wooden blocks in my vice. This resulted only in a bent ring which I fixed afterwards and so far seems to be fine, but the bearing is still there.

Thank you,
Nickolay