BJ Craft Passion
12-11-2013, 06:42 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
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BJ Craft Passion
Looks like a new bipe is on the way from BJ Craft...
http://rcone.kr/board/index.html?id=bjair1&no=121
Cheers,
Jason.
http://rcone.kr/board/index.html?id=bjair1&no=121
Cheers,
Jason.
12-12-2013, 01:32 AM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: oakland,
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Wow, there will be three different manufacturer for the Passion:-
Inagaki - http://www.ctt.ne.jp/~wcraft/passion.htm
Adachi Factory - http://www3.ic-net.or.jp/~a-factory/index.html
& BJ Craft
Adrian
Inagaki - http://www.ctt.ne.jp/~wcraft/passion.htm
Adachi Factory - http://www3.ic-net.or.jp/~a-factory/index.html
& BJ Craft
Adrian
10-19-2014, 02:20 AM
#13
My Feedback: (3)
And there appears to be another color scheme variant of the BJCraft, available at F3ALorenz in Germany
(yellow instead of pink)
http://www.f3alorenz.de/home-f3a/bj-...dy-passion.htm
It says 'ask for price', so I sent an email and will edit this post if I get a reply
Edit:
price without german tax is 1847.-€.
Shipping about 300 - 500.-€, depend on the delivery airport in USA
(yellow instead of pink)
http://www.f3alorenz.de/home-f3a/bj-...dy-passion.htm
It says 'ask for price', so I sent an email and will edit this post if I get a reply
Edit:
price without german tax is 1847.-€.
Shipping about 300 - 500.-€, depend on the delivery airport in USA
Last edited by ltc; 10-20-2014 at 10:52 AM. Reason: added price info received
11-30-2014, 06:07 PM
#14
As a long time fan of Akiba's designs, I have been talking to Mike about this plane since the US Nats. It has finally arrived and I am very excited to get my hands on one of the first ones Mike has brought in. Yes, it is true..Mark Hunt has purchased a 2 meter arf. Anyway, so far I have only unboxed and drooled over the dry fitted assembly. Dry weight included the ply parts pack is 5lbs 4oz...2385g. Equipment planned is a Neu, CC esc, and futaba servos. There are no instructions so I will be starting on the easy stuff first. Initial impressions of the parts finish and dry fit are very good.
12-02-2014, 06:53 PM
#15
Last night I was able to work on getting the aileron servos fitted. A minor adjustment to the length of each servo box was required...I guess BJ is a JR fan. Although I could not make any ID of a horn slot for the G10 type horns I was able to conclude that the ailerons are quite strong and certainly solid in the area where a hardpoint is required. I fell back on my old faithful carbon rod control horns which have never failed me in the past. I used a simple jig to make sure my clevis pivot would be centered directly over the hinge line.
I was able to then look at how square and true the bottom wing to fuselage was. Seems very square to the tailpost, and a measure from the tailpost to each wingtip was pleasantly dead on. The bottom wing rtf weighs in at a scant 16.9oz. The top wing with servos, rtf weighs 17.4oz.
I was able to then look at how square and true the bottom wing to fuselage was. Seems very square to the tailpost, and a measure from the tailpost to each wingtip was pleasantly dead on. The bottom wing rtf weighs in at a scant 16.9oz. The top wing with servos, rtf weighs 17.4oz.
12-02-2014, 07:34 PM
#16
My Feedback: (5)
If this is like all of BJ's other planes, there is likely a Laser CNC cut jig that you use to locate where to cut the slots for the G10 horns. It is probably in the bag with the other laser cut plywood parts. He probably has a jig for ailerons and a separate one for the rudder and also elevator. The elevator jig likely has a hole which fits over the forward tube in the stab and helps locate the slot for the horn. That one is important to find and use. Check the BiSide thread, I'd bet that this one is very similar in construction method and fixtures.
12-03-2014, 07:01 AM
#17
This morning I did find a laser cut ply piece that appeared to be the aileron horn jig but when placed even with the root end of the aileron the slot is a inch or so too far to the inboard side of the where the horn should be. I was able to easily find the slot in the left stab for the large control horn. I have not found any indication of where a rudder hardpoint might be located. I will try using what I thought was the aileron jig....that may locate the rudder horn? The ply parts included a rudder servo tray that fits perfectly in the forward (bottom wing area) area of the fuselage. Pull-pull cables are included as well.
I would like to know for sure at some point what is the Akiba recommended incidences, thrust and CG.
-mark
I would like to know for sure at some point what is the Akiba recommended incidences, thrust and CG.
-mark
12-04-2014, 08:18 AM
#19
I spent one late afternoon/evening working on the stab assembly. The parts indicate a slight upgrade from the BiSide components. I dry fitted the stab halves together away from the fuse and found a slight misalignment along the leading and trailing edges. One stab has hardpoints at each end of the two stab tubes for a small, long self tapping screw. I surmised that the tubes would be glued into the other half. On this stab half I carefully used a very small drill to make holes around the periphery of the front tube socket in both the root rib and the second rib where the tube terminates. This allowed me to persuade the socket to move slightly without total removal. With the stabs lined up I CA'd the new front socket position. I finished it off applying microballons and more CA to fill voids completely around the root rib and second rib. This method was nicely outlined in the BiSide thread I believe by Shannah. With the stabs in line a dry fit to the fuse showed excellent alignment to the fuselage and bottom wing. Just like the BiSide, some ply donuts are included to offset the stabs so the center pivot tube can be tacked to the socket in the fuselage. One more dry fit without the spacers to double check, removed the stabs and CA'd the large tube permanently. I saw in BiSide pics that there should be phenolic or g10 type thin washers that would keep the stabs slightly spaced off the fuse sides. I couldn't find anything in the box, so I improvised and cut some nylon sheet material I had laying around that was nearly 1/16" thick. I made a nearly rectangular shape with slightly oversized hole for the pivot tube. I glued these to each stab root and they look like they will work just fine. The large control horn and servo setup was straightforward. Sorry about the cluttered garage/workshop..
12-04-2014, 08:44 AM
#20
Anthony;
My control horn setup is simply an 1/8" solid carbon rod carefully glued into the aileron near the LE. In some rare cases I have had to angle the rod so that the nylon connector and clevis pivot will end up directly over the hinge line. In my own builds I have hardpoints built in that extend from the LE back toward the TE of the aileron so that the load applied by the carbon rod will be distributed properly. I could tell that in these ailerons the whole area behind the servo pocket was solid...likely the typical internal construction of stacking several little ribs against one another in this area.
I drill a hole using a simple jig and a long 1/8" bit (gives me more sight line to simply keep the drill straight). I use a piece of tape on the bit as drill depth gauge. A dry fit check and then I use thick CA in the hole and insert the carbon rod cut to a length that is about 1-1/4" above the hinge line. I can adjust the exact height of the nylon piece later, making sure all 4 will be the same and at a height that will give me the throw I want. I simply thin CA the nylon to the carbon and the job is done. This is an old method handed down to me years ago by Ron Barr. In my opinion it simply is the lightest, strongest setup and I just got into a habit of using it year after year. I found that with a soldering iron I can replace the nylon pieces rather easily if needed...which I needed to do almost every Winter, back in my glow days.
My control horn setup is simply an 1/8" solid carbon rod carefully glued into the aileron near the LE. In some rare cases I have had to angle the rod so that the nylon connector and clevis pivot will end up directly over the hinge line. In my own builds I have hardpoints built in that extend from the LE back toward the TE of the aileron so that the load applied by the carbon rod will be distributed properly. I could tell that in these ailerons the whole area behind the servo pocket was solid...likely the typical internal construction of stacking several little ribs against one another in this area.
I drill a hole using a simple jig and a long 1/8" bit (gives me more sight line to simply keep the drill straight). I use a piece of tape on the bit as drill depth gauge. A dry fit check and then I use thick CA in the hole and insert the carbon rod cut to a length that is about 1-1/4" above the hinge line. I can adjust the exact height of the nylon piece later, making sure all 4 will be the same and at a height that will give me the throw I want. I simply thin CA the nylon to the carbon and the job is done. This is an old method handed down to me years ago by Ron Barr. In my opinion it simply is the lightest, strongest setup and I just got into a habit of using it year after year. I found that with a soldering iron I can replace the nylon pieces rather easily if needed...which I needed to do almost every Winter, back in my glow days.
12-04-2014, 02:19 PM
#21
My Feedback: (41)
Hey Mark thanks for taking this time to show your progress.
We took one out of the box and inspected it. I wish I had the energy and time needed to build one along with you.
From what Dave Snow and I saw it's very nice. Funny how pictures don't do a plane justice sometimes. We both thought it looked better up close and personal.
If anyone wants one I only have 2 left and we are offering free shipping thru tomorrow.
Keep the pics coming!!! Mike Mueller
F3AUnlimited.com 800 591 2875
We took one out of the box and inspected it. I wish I had the energy and time needed to build one along with you.
From what Dave Snow and I saw it's very nice. Funny how pictures don't do a plane justice sometimes. We both thought it looked better up close and personal.
If anyone wants one I only have 2 left and we are offering free shipping thru tomorrow.
Keep the pics coming!!! Mike Mueller
F3AUnlimited.com 800 591 2875
12-04-2014, 03:04 PM
#22
Mike,
I had a couple pattern buds stop by to see and they were quite impressed. My pictures are pretty poor due to lighting and cellphone picture taking quality. If I can get this thing out in the sun I will get some better pics. The finish is certainly better in person than in my photos..
-mark
I had a couple pattern buds stop by to see and they were quite impressed. My pictures are pretty poor due to lighting and cellphone picture taking quality. If I can get this thing out in the sun I will get some better pics. The finish is certainly better in person than in my photos..
-mark
12-06-2014, 06:14 PM
#24
Join Date: May 2004
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Mark I agree it does seem the aileron horn jig locates the slot way out of position. I am also interested on where the best location of the rudder servo it may be that the best location is on the upper side of stab. I do appreciate your photos.
Bill Ahrens
Bill Ahrens
Last edited by Nitroaddictpilot; 12-06-2014 at 06:16 PM.
12-07-2014, 06:49 AM
#25
The kit included a rudder servo tray and it seemed to dry fit centered in the fuse above the bottom wing saddle. I glued balsa rails into the fuse sides so setting the tray would be easier and stronger. After careful inspection I could see that the bottom 2"ish of the LE on the rudder was made of a large piece of solid balsa. I laid out a piece of string (low tech I know) and decided where I would like the horn. Using dividers I marked the position of the cable exits. I used the included cable (looped at the servo arm) and ball link ends (at the rudder horn) to finish up the linkage.
I reinforced the rudder tray with some hard balsa planks along each side of the servo cutout and across the front and rear face/edge. I also cut a couple lightening holes on either side of the servo. On one side I also cut slots for a narrow Velcro strap (Rx).
I also installed an F3AU tailwheel while working on the rudder setup.
I reinforced the rudder tray with some hard balsa planks along each side of the servo cutout and across the front and rear face/edge. I also cut a couple lightening holes on either side of the servo. On one side I also cut slots for a narrow Velcro strap (Rx).
I also installed an F3AU tailwheel while working on the rudder setup.