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BJ Craft Fantasista 70

Old 09-02-2014, 06:53 AM
  #51  
ltc
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Originally Posted by danamania
I was impressed with the fit & finish of the laser cut parts supplied with the Fantasista 70 and went with the supplied firewall for the A50-12S: It just looked like the easiest and best way to go for my Natcho.
So you went with the rear mount rather than the nose ring mount?
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:05 AM
  #52  
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The ply the use for a motor mount is really light wood. I had doubled mine up and it still broke. I did cut some air vents into the f.w. But it didn't seem to break at that location. So I would suggest a rear support as well. While this was on my nuance 70 I would think it's the same wood. I
Old 09-02-2014, 10:25 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by ltc
So you went with the rear mount rather than the nose ring mount?
Wish I could find that cheek motor plate. On face value it looks like it would fit my nuance.
Old 09-30-2014, 12:12 PM
  #54  
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Dana
What motor/prop combo are you using?
I recently got a Nuance 70 with the A50-12S but wasn't sure on the propeller. I plan on flying with 5s-5000mah
Old 09-30-2014, 12:29 PM
  #55  
learn2turn
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Originally Posted by g_mkoch
Dana
What motor/prop combo are you using?
I recently got a Nuance 70 with the A50-12S but wasn't sure on the propeller. I plan on flying with 5s-5000mah
No idea how similar the plane is but I fly my Monolog 70 with an A50-12S, 5s5000mAH, and an APC 15x10. I get about 7.5 minutes with and put about 3000-3500mAH back in after a flight only draining 60-70% so I'm not beating on the packs, plenty of speed and vertical (even though I think my plane is a tad heavy). I've been meaning to try a 16x8 just for comparison as the load should be about the same having no idea if it would be better or worse for performance for pattern.
Old 10-01-2014, 02:27 AM
  #56  
danamania
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Originally Posted by g_mkoch
Dana
What motor/prop combo are you using?
I recently got a Nuance 70 with the A50-12S but wasn't sure on the propeller. I plan on flying with 5s-5000mah
Same motor in my Natcho'sista only with 4500s. White Xoar PJN 16x12. That said, I am using the Throttle Tech unit with the 5S splitter. If going straight through may want to try an APC 16x10 first to see if that suits the flying conditions and style. The set-up is not so different from a 5S Osiris, for reference.
Old 10-11-2014, 02:12 PM
  #57  
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I figured I could ask here.
I'm still putting together the 70 nuance, but I just noticed that I'm missing the fiberglass washers that keep the stab halves from touching the fuse. Any suggestions on how to replace them?
Old 10-11-2014, 07:09 PM
  #58  
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You can make the washers from 1-2mm thick material. Balsa or ply would work, just cover it in monokote/ultracote.
Old 10-12-2014, 07:51 AM
  #59  
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My nuance 70 did not have anything as well. I used a couple plastic washers that I had that are origianally used to space helicopter blades. I drilled the centers out. Post #13 on my build thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2221803
Old 10-12-2014, 01:26 PM
  #60  
ltc
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Originally Posted by g_mkoch
I figured I could ask here.
I'm still putting together the 70 nuance, but I just noticed that I'm missing the fiberglass washers that keep the stab halves from touching the fuse. Any suggestions on how to replace them?
McMaster Carr can supply the washers in various materials..nylon, Teflon, Delrin.
They have just about everything.
Old 11-22-2014, 07:30 PM
  #61  
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I finally have the 50Products Type G belt drive and BJCraft laser cut mounting kit for the Fantasista 70! It arrived from Japan today via EMS, took 4 days in transit...amazing.
Quality and design are excellent.
Came with a Scorpion motor installed on the drive. Interestingly enough, I emailed Scorpion and they said the motor does not exist and have no info on it, saying it mighr be a Japan only motor.

Will be ordering the airframe, JR servos and Falcon 70mm spinner from Mike at F3A sometime next week. Hope to start build sometime in early 2015 and will have it finished by spring.
Old 11-23-2014, 07:59 AM
  #62  
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Does it seem like the belt drive systems are more popular in Japan? Will you be able to run a larger prop or just run a smaller more efficient motor with that?
Old 11-23-2014, 08:13 AM
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Hi -

If you do not mind me asking, how much did the belt drive system go for? It seems like a pretty neat piece of equipment.

Thanks,

Teo
Old 11-23-2014, 08:48 AM
  #64  
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I wish I had the belt drives. They look very cool.
Mike Mueller
Old 11-24-2014, 05:32 AM
  #65  
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Japan seems to have quite a large number of belt drive airplanes and options compared to the rest of the world. I have no idea why.
To be honest, I simply wanted to try the belt drive. I saw a Youtube video of the Fantasista 70 with the unit and saw pictures of the unit. I was just fascinated, same way I was when I first saw a Brenner Contra.
The Fantasista 120 is my favorite plane, so I am sure the smaller version will not disappoint.
You can run a larger prop using a smaller motor and from what I can tell, it does sound a bit different in the Youtube video. I'll know more in the spring!
Old 11-24-2014, 05:36 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by viva_peru
Hi -

If you do not mind me asking, how much did the belt drive system go for? It seems like a pretty neat piece of equipment.

Thanks,

Teo
I paid 34560 yen for the drive unit, which came with a Scorpion brushless motor installed. If not, I can also accept a 25-10 Plettenberg Orbit.
I paid 1620 yen for the laser cut wooden parts for the BJCraft 70 install.
I paid 2700 yen for delivery via EMS (4 days from time of order to my local post office .. impressive)
The exchange rate was about 116 yen to $1 USD, so $335 USD total delivered. It seemed reasonable, considering the Scorpion is not a cheap brushless motor.

Last edited by ltc; 11-24-2014 at 05:40 AM.
Old 11-24-2014, 05:40 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by mups53
I wish I had the belt drives. They look very cool.
Mike Mueller
Hi Mike,
Yes, its a very nicely designed and manufactured unit. It is actually the Rev 2 of the Type G belt drive (yes, I've been reading as much info as I could find).
50Products.com, who designs and builds the units in Japan was contacted and they will NOT sell/ship outside of Japan.
http://50products.com/motor/beltspe/beltspecialG.html


I was able to finally find the Type G drive from a F3A hobbyshop in Japan who was excellent to deal with. Very prompt and efficient communication via email and Paypal is accepted.
http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/overseas/...gory2ID=item02
Old 11-24-2014, 09:28 AM
  #68  
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Before the advent of outrunners, most motors needed some form of reduction. Most used gearboxes, but if you needed to reduce the RPM by a factor of 2 or less, a belt drive became an option. Modelairtech, within the US, used to make beldrives. They had two designs, one limited to 500 watts of input power and another rated at 1000 watts. They are not as efficient as gear drives (it takes some energy to bend the belt around the pulleys), but they are quieter and provide some damping between the prop and motor. They maintenance is also simpler; no greasing.

The only significant limitation was that the RPM's at the pinion pulley could not exceed a certain level; otherwise, the belt came apart. I do not recall if the limit was 10K RPM or 15K RPM. In the day, the belt units worked best with the Mega or Jeti Phasor motors which had relatively low KV compared to other motors (800-1000).

Teo

PS. Ltc. Thank you for the price info. It seems reasonble given that what you get is the whole package.

Last edited by viva_peru; 11-25-2014 at 04:58 AM.
Old 07-25-2015, 04:09 PM
  #69  
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Hello guys,

A few weeks ago I purchased a Fantasita 70 from Mike at F3Aunlimited. I have been working on the plane and I have a quick question regarding the stab. From what I can tell, the carbon rods which connect the two elevator halves are meant to be glued on one side (the one with the elevator horn) and screwed on the other. I am assuming that is done just in case there is a need to take the stab apart. How do you feel about using screws to hold it together? I am tempted to glue both halves to the rods. The tube which acts as the bearing will be glued to the fuse just to keep it from working loose over time. Is this what most have done?

Thanks,

Teo
Old 07-25-2015, 04:14 PM
  #70  
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On my nuance 70 I have put screws in both side. This is my second plane and so far no issues with it. When flying I can only imagine that there is enough load on the stab that it's not going anyplace anyways.
Old 07-26-2015, 03:16 AM
  #71  
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Thank you for the information. I will follow the instructions (glue one side and use screw on the other) and see how it comes out. Did you have any issues drilling the stab and making sure that you hit the carbon rods?


Teo
Old 07-26-2015, 08:41 AM
  #72  
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No real issues but the wood on mine the wood is really soft right where you drill so be carefull. If I had to do it again I would think about gluing the one side and maybe install that side then after some measuring I would put a small flat on the carbon rod so the drill bit didn't slip on the tube.

Or drill just enough to mark the rod, remove the stab then finish the drilling.

If your not careful you will elongate the wood on the stab.
Old 07-26-2015, 11:22 AM
  #73  
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Thank you. That was one of my concerns; I thought it would be difficult to keep the drill straigth while going through the rod.
Old 07-26-2015, 11:47 AM
  #74  
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Don't forget any spacer on the carbon tubes.
Old 07-26-2015, 05:12 PM
  #75  
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Hi -

I have seen references to the spacers but as far as I can tell, none came in the kit. I believe that my kit came with the wood package for the Nuance as the aileron servo mounts looked a little different from those shown in the manual and the mount for the belt drive installation was not included. I am using an AXI, so that was not a concern.

Looking at the stabs, given that the root rib is balsa, I was not sure that a spacer would do much good unless if is glued onto the balsa and allowed to rub against the fuse. Is that what you did? I looked for photos but did not see any. An alternative would be to glue a 1/32 piece of ply covered in ultracote at the base of the stab to act as a spacer.

Thanks,

Teo

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