Jason Arnold

Last night I managed to finish covering the last wing panel. The second wing came out 1 gram heavier than the first. We can live with that.

Cheers,
Jason.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Wow, 1 whole gram... are you sure your scale is accurate? :-)
That is pretty frickin' awesome!

Jason Arnold

Thanks Mate.
Not sure on the scale accuracy but it's a reference. ;-) Overall, the wings and stabs should take about 180 grams off the flying weight of the model. It takes 44 grams off the stabs.
Now to finish the model. ;-)

Cheers,
Jason.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

... and a very nice job on the finishing; both color scheme and craftsmanship. As for the 224 gram weight reduction, it all counts! Of course you could just plop a new YS 200 in it and weight becomes irrelevant (unless you go over the 5Kg total). A vey enjoyable build thread. Looking forward to the test flight! Good Luck!

PS My youngest daughter spent a year in Sydney as a nanny (2 years ago) and absolutely loved it there!

Jason Arnold

Thanks Flywilly, I'm glad someone is enjoying the thread and yes, every gram adds up too fast.

Good to hear your daughter enjoyed Sydney. I wouldn't want to live anywhere else. ;-)

Now all the little jobs start to finish the model off.
1. Glue in the 8mm Carbon anti-rotation pins.
2. Glue in the nylon wing retention bolts. Can't do without these. :-)
3. Align and glue in the firewall for the Ralph Schweizer CRS.

Cheers,
Jason.

Jason Arnold

The CRS nose ring has now been glued in with 30min epoxy. I will add some carbon tow and cloth around the circumference of the AC Ply nose ring.

The fuse nose is sanded out to match the CRS nose ring. This allows removal of the CRS through the front of the fuse by undoing three screws and rotating the drive 45 degrees.

The CRS comes with two 4mm AC Ply rings to adjust the spinner clearance. I plan to make a new AC Ply ring out of 4+3mm AC Ply. This will give a nice looking clearance of 2.5mm.

Cheers,
Jason.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

What is the best factory yellow color for iron on coverings (monokote, ultracote or other coverings)?

Jason Arnold

I used Hobby King film. I bought three of their yellows and the closest was Solid Amber. It's almost bang on.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/covering...-5mtr-106.html

Cheers,
Jason.

Jason Arnold

The Ralph Schweizer CRS comes with two 4mm AC Ply Spacer rings. I needed a 7mm Spacer so some 3mm and 4mm AC Ply was laminated together and then cut out on my CNC router. This results in a 2.5mm spinner to nose ring gap.

I've also added some carbon cloth and tow around the AC Ply nose ring.

Cheers,
Jason.

Jason Arnold

The CRS is more or less installed. Only the rear support needs to be cut on the CNC.

I've also been working on a battery tray design that houses the ESC underneath and allows for easy Movement of the packs for CG changes. The traditional Velcro Straps will be eliminated. A clamping mechanism will be designed to hold the packs in place which will incorporate Titanium and Aluminium HW along with a carbon clamp.

The RX and RX Battery trays have been drawn up too. These have 1mm Ply ends and balsa plates.

Jason Arnold

Today I machined up the rear support for the CRS/C54.

Jeff Worsham

My Feedback: (28)

Jason- what diameter CRS spinner did you use? And what is the resulting overall length with the 2.5mm spinner gap? thanks

Jason Arnold

Hi Jeff,

The CRS spinner diameter is 85mm which suits the Allure nose. You could also use the 82mm (same as Brenner V3/V4) spinner which is a bit shorter. Ralph Schweizer used a 91mm spinner on his Allure but cut about 1/4" off the nose to get the profile matching the bigger spinner. Ralph did a blog here: RS-Page

I don't have a figure on the overall length but I did make a measuring device for our recent Australian Masters and World Cup. I tested the Allure with CRS and seemed to have at least 10mm to spare on the 2020mm limit. So, it's probably about 2010mm. The Allure rudder slopes backwards so you need to make sure the model is set at a "Flying Attitude" before making a measurement like this. This is probably the case for all models being measured with a gauge.

Cheers,
Jason.

Jason Arnold

A little more progress has been made since my last post.
1. The Rudder tray is reinforced and glued in. I reinforced it with carbon cloth on top and 1/4" x 1/4 balsa underneath. Truth be known, the balsa made the biggest difference to stiffness. Good old balsa.

2. The rudder servo along with the Carbon Servo Arm has been fitted. Home made on my CNC. These are available as a complete Control Horn/Servo Arm package.

3. Started marking out the rudder horn slots and cable path for Pull-Pull system. Measure twice, cut once!

4. Made the delrin battery tray ESC standoffs and battery hold down posts.

5. Finalised the design and tool path file to cut out the battery tray carbon and Ply parts on the CNC.

6. Cut out the RX and RX pack trays on the CNC from AC Ply and hard balsa.

Jason Arnold

I made some more parts for the new battery tray yesterday. Now I just need some more carbon to finish it all off...

Also made a horn set and CRS rear support for someone else. ;-)

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Must be nice to have your own CNC cutter. Is it a laser or mechanical cutter? ...another tool I'd really like to have!

Jason Arnold

Hi Flywilly,

It's a CNC router that I made myself. It's controlled by LinuxCNC and is an awesome tool to have in the shed. It was a long time in the build though. I bought most of the material before the birth of my daughter which was 2011. I got the machine running last year....

I still have some little things to tidy up (wiring etc) on the CNC but in the most part it's all working great. Jobs that would have taken hours to make by hand now take minutes and are very accurate and repeatable.

Cheers,
Jason.

Jason Arnold

Some more progress on the Allure Builders kit yesterday. The rudder horns are both fitted. Cutting the slots was a bit of a PITA but some patience and it was all done. Very pleased with the results.

The tail wheel assembly was also fitted to the model. I'm extremely pleased at how this came out. The factory supplied spring wire is used with the Precision Aero tail wheel along with some other bits I've made up. The little Aluminium spring bracket was my first attempt at milling aluminium on the CNC router.

Slowly it's getting there... On the home stretch now...

Jason Arnold

The rudder pull-pull has been completed. I did the cable exits a little different to the last model. This time I glued the rudder horns in and then ran fishing line off both horns up to the rudder servo to then determine where the crossed cables would exit the fuse. I then used a Dremel cut-off wheel to make a 1" slot in the fin centred on the mark previously made. A slot also needs to be cut in a former inside the fuse for the cable to pass through. Turns out this former was right at the front of my exit slot so I made a cut with a scalpel and then opened up a slot in the former with a thin flat file.

New Allure's or Alchemy's will come with a different gear plate and UC leg setup. This model still has the old style plate and gear so I scraped out the bog (microballoons) with a sharp chisel and ran two strips of carbon tow front and rear on the gear plate. I also added some carbon cloth between the gear plate assembly and fuse sides. This gives a little more security to the gear plate assembly.

Cheers,
Jason.

bem

My Feedback: (1)

Jason,
Could You explain in more detail how You determined where the rudder cables exits on fuselage needed to be. I have seen various methods.

/Bo

Jason Arnold

Hi Ben,

I'm sure there's a number of good method to do this task. This is how I did it this time:
1. Determine the position of the hard point in the rudder.
2. Work out where you are going to mount the rudder servo tray.
3. Mount the rudder tray along with the servo and horn.
4. Transfer the cable centre from the servo horn to the side of the fuse. I used masking tape and made marks on this.
5. Measure where the rudder horns and are going to go and Mark on masking tape again.
6. Determine what connection system will be used to connect the cable to the rudder horn.
7. Transfer the cable centre to the masking tape.
8. If you join the lines between the rudder servo cable centre and rudder cable centre you have the path of the cable. Mark this once again on masking tape stuck to the fin.
9. I then tied some light strain fishing line to both rudder horns, crossed them and ran the line up to the Servo Arm. This is done above the turtle deck. It's important to have the width at the servo horn correct. I had a second rudder servo horn I could tie the fishing line onto. It can help to have an extra set of hands doing this....
10. With the fishing line directly above the rudder servo horn, determine where the line touches the fin. Again, make a mark on masking tape. I then made more marks 1/2" either side of this mark. I measured back from the bevel on both sides to match the exits on each side. This seemed to work well and lined up nice with the paint scheme.
11. Cut the 1" slot with a Dremel cut-off wheel. This did a real nice job BTW.
12. Cut holes in the internal former for the cables to pass through. I used a scalpel first and then a thin flat file to slot the former on both sides.
13. Run your cables.

That's it.

Cheers,
Jason.

bem

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Jason for the detailed explanation.
/Bo

Jason Arnold

You're welcome Bem. I hope it helps.

Cheers,
Jason.

FinnSpeed

Well explained. Your method is practically identical to how I did the same with my Spark.

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

I used a laser level on my last build, which worked well.

I didn't any any former issues for the rudder cables, but I did for the elevator cables. A piece of 1/16" piano wire flattened on the end and sharpened to a drill point done the job.